Outer Banks Fishing Mods

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SinewStew

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I live very close to the Outer Banks and have been lugging fishing equipment over sand for ages now. I'd like to be able to access some of the more remote surf fishing areas. I know I'm going to need to install tow hooks on my 4X4 Liberty but what else could I possibly need besides airing down to about 15 psi?
 

CzarKJ

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Welcome! Tow hooks would be a bare minimum. Skid plates for more protection and a lift/good tires would help you tremendously in the outerbanks. (I have been there and the sand does like to play tricks) I recomend a shovel and a friend as well. Plus something to shove under tires just in case.
 

tommudd

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good jack
boards to put under jack or under the wheels
shovel
air gauge ( to air down)
air compressor ( to air back up )
tow hooks front and rear
tow strap ( not one with metal hooks either)
theres a start others will chime in as well
Oh and it may look cool to drive in the ocean but a year from now you'll be upset as to the amount of rust you find, always hose out underneath when you leave
 

SinewStew

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good jack - Got it
boards to put under jack or under the wheels - Got it
shovel - got one on rack up top
air gauge ( to air down) - got one
air compressor ( to air back up ) - got one
tow hooks front and rear - Getting them
tow strap ( not one with metal hooks either) - Got one

I really, really don't want to lift my jeep as I like the way it drives on the road.
 

CzarKJ

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good jack - Got it
boards to put under jack or under the wheels - Got it
shovel - got one on rack up top
air gauge ( to air down) - got one
air compressor ( to air back up ) - got one
tow hooks front and rear - Getting them
tow strap ( not one with metal hooks either) - Got one

I really, really don't want to lift my jeep as I like the way it drives on the road.

No worries! Sounds like you have a good setup so far. Just make sure you have good tires when going on the sand SRAs will not treat you well there.
 

CzarKJ

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Well the lift will help you but its not a absolute requirement for your application. If there are any ups or downs your clearance might hit and you could get stuck. Proper driving could avoid these problems. Here is a good article about tires that might help!
Which Tire is Best for Sand, Rock, Snow and Mud
 

MarkJ

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Just my $.02
The suspension components of our beloved Liberty are poorly made and sagged out (esp springs and shocks) and replacing them gives a much better ride. But I have yet to see any 4 wheeled vehicle gain road handling prowess by RAISING the center of gravity. So if road handling and sand running are important to you by all means replace the suspension components with much higher quality items but I would keep the stock height (surprisingly always higher than your rig probably is now because of the Liberty sag-ass issues). This has a side benefit of keeping all the suspension and steering geometry at the factory design spec also leading to better road handling. Lifting the center of gravity any higher will (all else being equal) always be detrimental to overall road handling. In my experience running on sand at the Oregon coast, we always leaned towards a tire without aggressive edge/side lugs and also without a sharp tread to sidewall angle - more rounded is good. Also a fairly high profile tire is also best for airing down. Low profile tires have little gain when aired down. Flotation is what you are looking for, NOT digging (you don't want a sand rail)! Thankfully your wish for road and sand handling go hand in hand and can easily be met by the same tire. If you traverse long areas of very loose sand you may also want to look into locking the tire bead to the rim.
 

MarkJ

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I have no suggestions because I haven't changed mine...yet. I intend to eventually. And I like you am more interested in road handling than getting more ground clearance and installing bigger tires. There are many others here with experience with these companies who should be able to chime in with recommendations. I would think many of these companies probably can supply replacements for stock parts that do not sag and retain the correct stock ride height (and don't forget that stock specs are probably a couple inches higher than you are now, I know mine would be). Don't get me wrong, I like the looks of a raised rig and would enjoy some rough but slow 4 wheeling if I had the budget for it and had a 2nd rig that I could dedicate. But my Liberty was purchased for my 17yo daughter's first car and she doesn't need a rock-hopper at this point (who knows she may later) lol! She needs a dependable safe Jeep that will support her needs at college in Maine for the next several years. A capable Jeep with good safe road handling fills the bill nicely! So far this Winter (we purchased it last Fall) it has proven it's self many times over. So long story short, take the recommendations of those here in-the-know on lift kit companies and then research them about stock ride-height options. You still get all the benefit of upgraded and probably safer suspension components and a better ride to boot.
 

TwoBobsKJ

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MarkJ has really good points. SinewStew, your suspension is sagged and height-wise your Jeep is not where it was when it left the factory.

To gain back proper suspension travel and get your Liberty back to stock height - maybe just a touch more - go with OME or Ironman springs and shocks from JeepinByAl.com. The link is to a full set of Ironman springs and shocks that will run you around $800 and will give you essentially a new ride. Will your Liberty be "lifted" with those springs? Yes - but only lifted back to factory height. What you'll notice immediately is better handling on the road due to the fact your Jeep isn't bottoming out the springs over larger bumps, railroad tracks, etc. Will the center of gravity be higher? Yes, since it is now raised back to where Jeep designed it.

The "lifts" you see on this site are the result of new springs along with extras that add height to the Jeep. Certainly not necessary for what you want to do with yours on the Outer Banks - but you will definitely gain comfort and stability with OME or Ironman springs & shocks. I'd stay away from Rusty's Off Road as their springs sag quickly and you'll be right back where you are now in short order.

I purchased my new suspension over time - bought front springs this month, rear shocks next month, rear springs the following month, front shocks last. Spread the expense out over time to suit my budget but I got a very high quality suspension that gave me the flexibility (pun intended!) to build the Jeep I wanted.

Keep us posted :waytogo:

P.S. Long-timers here, JBA has now officially changed the name of the site from JeepinByAl to JBAOffroad.com.

Bob
 
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tommudd

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tommudd

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Just my $.02
The suspension components of our beloved Liberty are poorly made and sagged out (esp springs and shocks) and replacing them gives a much better ride. But I have yet to see any 4 wheeled vehicle gain road handling prowess by RAISING the center of gravity. So if road handling and sand running are important to you by all means replace the suspension components with much higher quality items but I would keep the stock height (surprisingly always higher than your rig probably is now because of the Liberty sag-ass issues). This has a side benefit of keeping all the suspension and steering geometry at the factory design spec also leading to better road handling. Lifting the center of gravity any higher will (all else being equal) always be detrimental to overall road handling. In my experience running on sand at the Oregon coast, we always leaned towards a tire without aggressive edge/side lugs and also without a sharp tread to sidewall angle - more rounded is good. Also a fairly high profile tire is also best for airing down. Low profile tires have little gain when aired down. Flotation is what you are looking for, NOT digging (you don't want a sand rail)! Thankfully your wish for road and sand handling go hand in hand and can easily be met by the same tire. If you traverse long areas of very loose sand you may also want to look into locking the tire bead to the rim.

Some good points here but also some that are off somewhat. With a well engineered suspension system you can in fact have a better handling and riding vehicle when lifted.
Quick case in point, I know what my KJ handled like when new and up to 20,000 miles, ( now has over 214,000 ) it was crap. Series of turns going back down home that I have driven for over 45 years, know what speed they can be taken in various vehicles from VW Bugs to 379 Petes. One particular curve stock I could take it at 50 was it, with mine the way it sits 65 is easy enough and could go more. Last week I was driving my Step Dads 05 KJ with 80,000 miles on it, again this curve comes up and I had to slow to between 45 and 50 due to the soft suspension. Next day same curve in mine at over 65.
So while you may think raising the center of gravity makes a vehicle more liable to roll when done right they actually do better ( and I'm over 4 inches of lift)
Lifting one right is the key, I absolutely hate driving a stock springed KJ , they ride and ( handle) like crap when you compare them to a " properly " lifted KJ .
 

tommudd

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What exactly is a proper spring lift? Who makes them, how much and where does one acquire said lift?

As mentioned above by Bob, jeepinbyal
Stay away from Skyjacker , Rustys ( both of their springs are same as stock rating ( 310 lb) where as OME 927s are rated at 400
Also dealing with RRO ( Rocky Road Outfitters) is sketchy at best so if you deal with them, lots of luck
OME 927/948 combo I ran for 100,000 beofre it was installed on another KJ, have also ran Ironman on mine for a while and both are great riding and handling lifts ( better spring rates for the KJ than stock)
 

MarkJ

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Though was comparing a "lifted properly" jeep to one with new replacement suspension components at the stock height. Not the stock sagged-a$$ components. Maybe I didn't state that clearly. With all else equal (parts quality, suspension stiffness, etc) the non lifted vehicle will out-handle the lifted one. That's why you don't see road track cars with a 4 inch lift. Can't fool physics.
 

tommudd

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Though was comparing a "lifted properly" jeep to one with new replacement suspension components at the stock height. Not the stock sagged-a$$ components. Maybe I didn't state that clearly. With all else equal (parts quality, suspension stiffness, etc) the non lifted vehicle will out-handle the lifted one. That's why you don't see road track cars with a 4 inch lift. Can't fool physics.

So you want to change it into a road and track car?
Stop by let me take you for a ride in a 4 plus inch lift
bring a change of underware :gr_grin:
So you want stock height?
None of the good manufactures build a stock height with higher spring rate all even the ONE 925s which are rated at 350 put you there
But even new stock springs will never compare to aftermarket like OME etc
Like i've said before I was so tired of mine by 20,000 miles I had to upgrade, only thing I hated about it brand new
 
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