Not going to start a spark plug thread

[LibertyTC]

I am now pretty quick doing the plugs on the KJ.
I am sure we all like the passenger side rear one...eh? LOL..
52387[/ATTACH]"]

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I know those plugs are in there deep, so notice I use electrical tape from the spark plug socket to extension.
If by chance you have a loose rubber insert inside of the spark plug socket, glue it in place first,to ensure it wont come out also, or get a new socket!

 

[ftaa]

I am now pretty quick doing the plugs on the KJ.
I am sure we all like the passenger side rear one...eh? LOL..
52389[/ATTACH]"]

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I know those plugs are in there deep, so notice I use electrical tape from the spark plug socket to extension.
If by chance you have a loose rubber insert inside of the spark plug socket, glue it in place first,to ensure it wont come out also, or get a new socket!

passenger side rear anything is just pure nonsense. i remeber doing plugs in my dads 88 aerostar back in 90 and passenger side rear ... *&^@ YOU!

tape is a great idea.. most plug pukkers have a little thing on them with a rubber do dad.... but they wear out so good idea!

 

[tommudd]

KJs one of the easiest there is to swap plugs I think
Since TC showed his " tools "
here's my spark plug changin' tools

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Now off to the neighbors to try and get a POS GM product to run

 

[ftaa]

difference between a jeep and a gm .. you can drive a jeep

 

[Dave]

...and so we went from "spark-plug ****" to "tool ****"..................LOL


Dave

 

[CactusJacked]

I know those plugs are in there deep, so notice I use electrical tape from the spark plug socket to extension.
If by chance you have a loose rubber insert inside of the spark plug socket, glue it in place first,to ensure it wont come out also, or get a new socket!

Or what I always use is a piece of 3/8 fuel hose, which fits snugly over the porcelain part, to grab the spark plug out and put it back in.

 

[tommudd]

Or what I always use is a piece of 3/8 fuel hose, which fits snugly over the porcelain part, to grab the spark plug out and put it back in.

Thats one of those old school things that if you've been around anytime at all you know that one :icon_lol: well at least you should. :gr_grin:

 

[HoosierJeeper]

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Here are the old ones...I think they have about 30k on them. Autolite Double platinum. Runs a bit smoother, not sure if it's because they're new or because I got rid of the double platinum ones. The gaps were right around the 0.040 mark. Nothing real bad.

 

[CactusJacked]

Thats one of those old school things that if you've been around anytime at all you know that one :icon_lol: well at least you should. :gr_grin:

Yes I have, and yes I do. < Dirt.... ^ Older than dirt. :happy175:

 

[MarkJ]

Or what I always use is a piece of 3/8 fuel hose, which fits snugly over the porcelain part, to grab the spark plug out and put it back in.

And jam a large screw in the finger end. Lots easier to spin. (way older than dirt, got the t-shirt)

 

[MarkJ]

More tool **** :icon_lol: - Getting ready to change the plugs on the Libergade. First time since we acquired her. Hope I am ready... (yes I have a longer hose for the plug spinner but probably unneeded here)

Can anyone guess which of these tools does not belong?

 

[tommudd]

More tool **** :icon_lol: - Getting ready to change the plugs on the Libergade. First time since we acquired her. Hope I am ready... (yes I have a longer hose for the plug spinner but probably unneeded here)

Can anyone guess which of these tools does not belong?

I see at least 2 not needed for sure :icon_lol:
air rachet and also the anti-seize , right ?
Although I have seen people use a air rachet to remove plugs before I like to feel them coming out

and before the great debate starts again
Using anti-seize on spark plugs will do the following:
Alters the tightening torque by up to 20% which may cause over-tightening (or breaking the spark bolt)
Reduces electrical ground contact if the anti-seize is non-conductive or semi-conductive (reduced spark possible)
Isolates more heat into the spark plug therefore causing the plug to increase the heat range above specification (can cause detonation/pre-ignition)

 

[CactusJacked]

You may want to use a trace amount of anti-seize on cheap spark plugs so you can get em out again.
But a "good" brand of plugs (like what you should be using) doesn't want it: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf

 

[CzarKJ]

You may want to use a trace amount of anti-seize on cheap spark plugs so you can get em out again.
But a "good" brand of plugs (like what you should be using) doesn't want it: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf

That just scares me. I've seen people try to pull plugs that didn't get antisieze and ended up with a new block. While I trust the manufacturer it still just scares me.

 

[MarkJ]

Ole Tomwetdirt got it right. I would never ever use a air ratchet on a spark plug. Even though it goes slow you just don't have the feel. And as for anti-seize, it's one of those few areas where the major manufacturers agree. Another reason to stick with good parts:

From AC Delco:
Quote:
Do not use any type of anti-seize compound on spark plug threads. Doing this will decrease the amount of friction between the threads. The result of the lowered friction is that when the spark plug is torqued to the proper specification, the spark plug is turned too far into the cylinder head. This increases the likelihood of pulling or stripping the threads in the cylinder head. Over-tightening of a spark plug can cause stretching of the spark plug shell and could allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.

From Autolite:
Quote:
We do not recommend the use of any anti seize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition. Antiseize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing. However, plug seizure is aggravated further when steel plugs are installed into aluminum cylinder heads for a long period of time. You may want to consider the periodic inspection of the plugs to reduce the likelihood of plug seizure during extended plug service intervals.

From NGK:
Quote:
Torque is one of the most critical aspects of spark plug installation. Torque directly affects the spark plugs' ability to transfer heat out of the combustion chamber. A spark plug that is under-torqued will not be fully seated on the cylinder head, hence heat transfer will be slowed. This will tend to elevate combustion chamber temperatures to unsafe levels, and pre-ignition and detonation will usually follow. Serious engine damage is not far behind. An over-torqued spark plug can suffer from severe stress to the Metal Shell which in turn can distort the spark plug's inner gas seals or even cause a hairline fracture to the spark plug's insulator...in either case, heat transfer can again be slowed and the above mentioned conditions can occur. The spark plug holes must always be cleaned prior to installation, otherwise you may be torquing against dirt or debris and the spark plug may actually end up under-torqued, even though your torque wrench says otherwise. Of course, you should only install spark plugs in a cool engine, because metal expands when it's hot and installation may prove difficult.

Here again is the NGK technical bulletin advising not to use anti-seize.

http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf

From Champion:
Quote:
Champion recommends that you do not use an anti-seize compound, since one has already been applied to the plugs at the factory.

Anti-Seize on Spark Plugs - Page 2 - Pelican Parts Technical BBS

 

[tommudd]

That just scares me. I've seen people try to pull plugs that didn't get antisieze and ended up with a new block. While I trust the manufacturer it still just scares me.

Cheap plugs or incorrectly installed / over torqued is the main reasons
Good plugs and no problems

 

[profdlp]

Now you guys have got me worried that I over-torqued mine when I did them last summer. Oh, well - It'll give me something to do this week.

 

[MarkJ]

I have got to say that I have changed MANY plugs in my life and always used brand names. Never ever had a problem.

 

[uss2defiant]

Now you guys have got me worried that I over-torqued mine when I did them last summer. Oh, well - It'll give me something to do this week.

I dialed my torque setting down so just unscrew it and lower your torque wrench.
This of course doesn't guarantee anything.

 

[profdlp]

I didn't even have a torque wrench when I put them in. I'm a little hazy on it now, but I seem to recall reading that you should get them snug and then adding 1/4 turn to that. That felt nowhere near right to me so I might have added a little bit more.

Will try the re-torque.