New 18" wheels with General Grabber AT2

[renkiew2]

I am digging General Grabbers with American Racing 18 tires..
We don't have Discount Tire here, but they have discount tire direct online store.. not sure where they have deal with for the mount/balance but will check that.

The problem is, Tire Rack says "Not Rated For Severe Snow".. Grabbers.. not reated for sever snow.. not sure what to say now.. any ideas if this set up will get me stuck in a feet of snow?

Yeah I saw that too. I was very puzzled by it, the Grabbers should be great in the snow! That makes no sense....

 

[renkiew2]

I just ordered new rotors and pads for the front. Power Slot slotted rotors and Hawk brake pads. I unfortunatley have the drums in back, boo. These should help. I'll install them soon and see how they are.

 

[AZKJ]

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Your set up looks great!!! But... you need to invest in a tire cover if you're not going to put the same wheel and tire combo on the back end.

 

[hyde]

I just ordered new rotors and pads for the front. Power Slot slotted rotors and Hawk brake pads. I unfortunatley have the drums in back, boo. These should help. I'll install them soon and see how they are.

Same size?
Let us know once you get them on. I hated my brakes after driving through puddle, I couldn't stop and almost rear ended that nissan! I guess drilled would have helped.

 

[MoladoGuy]

I just ordered new rotors and pads for the front. Power Slot slotted rotors and Hawk brake pads. I unfortunatley have the drums in back, boo. These should help. I'll install them soon and see how they are.

Where did you order them from. I was looking into Hawk brakes or Green Stuff brakes.

 

[tjkj2002]

Where did you order them from. I was looking into Hawk brakes or Green Stuff brakes.

Some times 4wheelparts has a PowerSlot rotors and Hawk pads for about $200.That's what I paid there anyways,other wise the rotors are ussually $100 apiece and a $100 for the pads.By the way the Hawk pads really kinda suck,ended up throwing them away after 1 week and went with Napa ceramics which was way better and only cost me $65.

 

[hyde]

I had brake job and paid a lot of money to the dealer, now they are squeeking again. I hate this sh*t.. They used the value line pads and machined the rotors. Damn I should have bought new rotors and pads.

 

[tjkj2002]

I had brake job and paid a lot of money to the dealer, now they are squeeking again. I hate this sh*t.. They used the value line pads and machined the rotors. Damn I should have bought new rotors and pads.

A little disc brake stop sqeak will solve your problems,though you have to remove the pads to apply it on the back of the pads.

 

[hyde]

I am not touching those pads..

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Thanks for the info, though.

 

[thecause17]

Getting larger rotors is alot more than just putting them on, the only option you'll probably ever see for the Jeeps is a crossed drilled and/or slotted like he has. If you want larger rotors, you're talking custom brackets and usually calipers because the caliper would have to be moved outward to accomodate the larger diameter rotor. Brake kits like that are big $$$ usually ($2k-$3k+) The ones that adapt your stock calipers can still run almost $1000, and that's just a pair, not a set of 4.


I did brakes on mine about a month ago or so...went to advance, bought bendix rear and the wearever gold line that they sell, bought everything for about $80, put them on, stops fine, no squeals....you have to make sure you use caliper lube when you do brakes, and always get the pads with the retainers on the back of them like the bendix have, that way the pad can't rattle around in the caliper when there's no pressure on it. I've been doing that with every vehicle I've had, hadn't had a trouble.

 

[hyde]

Did you get the pedal softened on yours? Mine never needed too much pressure to stop, I was told "they didn't bleed them", now I really gotta step on it to stop. I am getting used to it, though.

 

[Marlon_JB2]

I am not touching those pads..

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Thanks for the info, though.

I was once afraid of brakes until last week. Come to find out, it's not so bad. 2 Bolts and everything comes apart. Change out pads, replace bolts, done. It really is as simple as that.

 

[thecause17]

Did you get the pedal softened on yours? Mine never needed too much pressure to stop, I was told "they didn't bleed them", now I really gotta step on it to stop. I am getting used to it, though.

It should've been just the opposite. If you have a spongy pedal, they might need to be bled...if air gets into the line, that creates the problem, since when the hydaulic fluid pushes, instead of pushing all of it's pressure to the caliper, some it is just compressing air that's in the lines. My pedal is pretty firm, but before I did brakes I noticed it took more travel in the pedal. Since I did brakes, it's back to it's touchy self. If you decide to bleed them, pick up a pump for it, makes it an easy one person job, otherwise it's almost a two person job for it....and start at the longest distance from the master cylinder and work back...right rear, left rear, right front, left front. I didn't bleed mine, mostly because a complete fluid change is on list of things to do when I hit 50k miles, but i have bled them on other vehicles and noticed a difference in braking.


I'm not sure if anyone makes them for KJ's, but a set of SS braided lines would help some also. The rubber line between the vehicles hard line and the caliper actually expands under pressure...the SS brake line stops that from happening.

Edit: I'm pretty sure Goodridge makes a setup for us...

 

[hyde]

I did brakes I noticed it took more travel in the pedal. Since I did brakes, it's back to it's touchy self.

I want that. But brakes are serious business, I rely on them a lot since I drive fast and tend to stop near.. so I cannot take a chance. I loved my brakes before, and now they are gone. Stupid dealer.

Marlon, thanks for the encouragement...