Need help fast, 190 mA draw with ignition off.

[the_dealer]

Hey guys, the other day I noticed my rig was a little weak to turn over and it's starting to get bad. The batter drains down to 10-11 volts within 20 minutes after turning the rig off. I've narrowed the down to fuse 34, when I pull it there's no more draw. I've unplugged the radio, rear hatch connectors, and unplugged the radio choke, but the draw is still there. The battery I'm running definitely shouldn't be draining that fast, and I've tried a different alternator and the battery is an xs power d3400. Battery holds a charge with the battery cables disconnected, and I've unhooked everything I've added, but can't narrow down the drain. Anyone know what could be causing this? BTW I did wait for the modules to time out before trying to check for drain, and all interior lights are led and not stuck on.

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[uss2defiant]

can your radio be turned on after pulling your key out?

 

[the_dealer]

No, already checked that one.

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[LibertyTC]

Some Radios could have an internal problem causing a drain, even off.
Did you really remove radio, disconnect power connector into stereo?
Also on that 34 circuit is the BCM/JB...Lets hope it is not that.

 

[uss2defiant]

any recent mods?

 

[Billwill]

Any after market Trailer Hitch Installed?

What year/model is your KJ?

Do you have the wiring diagrams? You can download the KJ Service manual here...except 2004 model in which case use 2003 manuals....these include wiring diagrams.

Fuse 34 in the PDC box under the Hood I presume....feeds a lot of modules/solenoids etc.
which you may have to physically disconnect the connectors thereof or cut wires to isolate the drain...wires can be soldered together with shrink tubing later.

Once you and I have the same wiring diagrams in front of us we can go through the process of isolating the drain!

Download manuals here:www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

 

[renegade 04]

This sounds like the same issue I had for a while and it turned out to be just a bad ignition switch.

 

[the_dealer]

Any after market Trailer Hitch Installed?

What year/model is your KJ?

Do you have the wiring diagrams? You can download the KJ Service manual here...except 2004 model in which case use 2003 manuals....these include wiring diagrams.

Fuse 34 in the PDC box under the Hood I presume....feeds a lot of modules/solenoids etc.
which you may have to physically disconnect the connectors thereof or cut wires to isolate the drain...wires can be soldered together with shrink tubing later.

Once you and I have the same wiring diagrams in front of us we can go through the process of isolating the drain!

Download manuals here:www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

Yes but I built the trailer harness myself and have it running on its own fused circuit with relay. I have all the wiring diagrams as well, iirc you're the one that sent me the pdf of the 03 manual when I was having intermittent charging issues when I first got my Kj.


Anyways, I'm about 90% sure I've narrowed it down to the rear cargo light. All my interior lights are led and I have a toggle switch wired in so i can turn off the residual glow, but if the rear cargo light is manually turned on it throws everything out of wack. That's when it hit me, I was messing with my amps the other night and the lights timed out so I tapped the rear cargo light to see. Apparently the light is "on" but remains unlit in the bcm's eyes. So I either remove my toggle that keeps them from glowing, or never manually turn on the cargo light.

Question: What's the best way to wire in a single toggle switch to both evic map lights and rear cargo light? Anything other than how I have it now only turns off the front or rear separately. My led's are extremely bright, and keeping a halogen bulb inline doesn't cut it. I tried resistors, but my leds were half as bright as they are without them. Can't go back to stock as I modded the evic and rear cargo light for the led.

Example of how bright my interior lights are.

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With camera set as dark as possible.

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[the_dealer]

OK, so I thought I had the problem fixed but I guess I didn't. I unhooked the toggle switch I had and put the battery on charge, about to go out and see if it took care of the issue. Anyone have any input on wiring a single toggle to cut power to both the evic lights and the cargo light?

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[the_dealer]

Also getting an abs light, but my rig doesn't have abs?

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[the_dealer]

Bump, any ideas why I have an ABS light staying lit on a non abs equipped Kj?

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[uss2defiant]

you sure you don't have ABS?

 

[the_dealer]

Yup, I definitely don't have ABS.

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[Billwill]

Very weird that. My Export 2002 CRD Sport did not come with ABS but from 2003 that was standard on all Export models.

The BCM lights up the ABS light if the ABS controller (CAB) picks up a problem.

Seeing as you do not have ABS there is no CAB so the BCM is a bit confused...maybe from your interior LED issues since the BCM is in charge of these lamps as well.

The CAB and BCM talk to each other via either the PCI or the J1850 link...not sure which one.... so it could be a communication problem.

Maybe once you have resolved the LED issues the ABS lamp will go out...the CAB normally turns off the ABS LED via the BCM after 50 start/stop actions if the CAB is happy that ABS is working fine but of course you do not have a CAB!

I would not worry too much now about this ABS lamp....first fix your current drain and LED problems and see if the light goes out by itself....I presume the Speedo and Odometer are working OK?

 

[the_dealer]

Yeah, my speedo and everything is working fine. I went through and checked every connector and the only thing I noticed was when I turn my fog light switch( like I'm turning them on) , the drain drops from 150 m/A to 40 m/A. Is this normal?

When I pull fuse 34 I get no draw whatsoever. I've checked everything other than unplugging the instrument cluster. The battery lasted over night last night and wasn't too weak, but also not as strong as it should be. I've even reset the adaptive memory hoping it would help

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[the_dealer]

I went through the whole rig checking all the wiring and fixing anything that looked suspect. Found a loose ground wire going from the diagnostic port to floorpan(solved my diagnostic port timeout issue when engine is running) , stock dash tweeter lost its tape and bare wire was touching my homemade tweeter mount (running a 4ch amp, so wires may not have even been powered), bypassed radio choke/relay by running a 12v+ from my distribution block to the head unit and 12v switched from the fuse block to headunit, re-did all wiring for my interior led's, remote amp wires, and voltmeter/bass knob. So far I haven't had any more battery drain, so hopefully it's a thing of the past. Abs light is still constantly on blast, so if anyone has some ideas that'd be awesome.


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[Billwill]

I went through the whole rig checking all the wiring and fixing anything that looked suspect. Found a loose ground wire going from the diagnostic port to floorpan(solved my diagnostic port timeout issue when engine is running) , stock dash tweeter lost its tape and bare wire was touching my homemade tweeter mount (running a 4ch amp, so wires may not have even been powered), bypassed radio choke/relay by running a 12v+ from my distribution block to the head unit and 12v switched from the fuse block to headunit, re-did all wiring for my interior led's, remote amp wires, and voltmeter/bass knob. So far I haven't had any more battery drain, so hopefully it's a thing of the past. Abs light is still constantly on blast, so if anyone has some ideas that'd be awesome.


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Yeah hopefully you have fixed your current drain problem.

The Service manual states that if the ABS CAB picks up a problem with ABS it switches the ABS light ON via the BCM and PCM.....maybe some spurious problem got the PCM to think that the CAB had just informed it of an ABS problem!

After the ABS problem is fixed the ABS light stays ON until 50 start/stop actions. Hopefully you may have fixed the problem and the PCM will count down the 50 start/stop actions and then switch OFF the ABS light.

In the meantime some insulation or duct tape over the ABS light will stop the distraction....if the light never goes OUT but all other functions work OK I would open up the cluster and de-solder the LED for the ABS....no point in having the LED if the Jeep does not have the ABS hardware fitted!

That is the sort of fix I used to do when fixing Mainframe Equipment at 2.00 am in the morning and I needed to get home to get some sleep!:gr_grin:

Do a check of all the Cluster lights to make sure that all the other LEDs are working properly ie. that the ABS lamp is not maybe coming ON instead of the CEL light!. Do this by holding IN the Odometer Trip Reset Button while switching ON the ignition....the gauges should move around and all LEDs should light up....this is not a diagnostic but at least excercises the gauges and lamps!

 

[the_dealer]

Yeah hopefully you have fixed your current drain problem.

The Service manual states that if the ABS CAB picks up a problem with ABS it switches the ABS light ON via the BCM and PCM.....maybe some spurious problem got the PCM to think that the CAB had just informed it of an ABS problem!

After the ABS problem is fixed the ABS light stays ON until 50 start/stop actions. Hopefully you may have fixed the problem and the PCM will count down the 50 start/stop actions and then switch OFF the ABS light.

In the meantime some insulation or duct tape over the ABS light will stop the distraction....if the light never goes OUT but all other functions work OK I would open up the cluster and de-solder the LED for the ABS....no point in having the LED if the Jeep does not have the ABS hardware fitted!

That is the sort of fix I used to do when fixing Mainframe Equipment at 2.00 am in the morning and I needed to get home to get some sleep!:gr_grin:

Do a check of all the Cluster lights to make sure that all the other LEDs are working properly ie. that the ABS lamp is not maybe coming ON instead of the CEL light!. Do this by holding IN the Odometer Trip Reset Button while switching ON the ignition....the gauges should move around and all LEDs should light up....this is not a diagnostic but at least excercises the gauges and lamps!

Doesn't the abs light come on when there's a problem with the vss in abs equipped rigs? Maybe that could be a possibility as far as why it's on? I thought manual mentioned that it was the actual cluster that sets the abs light off after receiving the signal from the cab. I'm cross-eyed and mentally impaired after working on this thing for the past week, so I may have read wrong. I pulled the cluster today (also did that self test you memtioned) and everything seems OK. Mainly I wanted to make sure a stray wire strand didn't make it where it didn't belong. I hooked the laptop to it to see if any abs codes came up, but there wasn't any. Makes sense considering it doesn't have abs lol. I'm gonna wait it out for the 50 starts and/or complete self-destruction( whichever comes first) before desoldering the abs indicator.

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[jeepbeep]

you solve drain on anything by removing fuses and testing between negative post and cable.

The worse are shorts in wiring.

 

[the_dealer]

Yeah hopefully you have fixed your current drain problem.

I thought I did...about 4 different times. The abs light still hasn't gone out, although my t-case position switch took a dump and I had to unplug it.

I noticed on a recent 600 mile trip that the cruise no longer works. The cruise light comes on until you try to set speed, then it goes off and won't come back on (cruise doesn't work). Does that sound like the clockspring is bad? Would a bad clockspring make the abs light come on since the bcm monitors cruise and the brake switch? I also repaired the wire and connect for tbe drivers visor. The light was functional, but the ground wire broke completely off at the connector and bare wire was exposed. The other wire had about 3 or 4 bare places where it was pinched. Did I mention I hate wiring?

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