Mobil 1 European spec'ed 0W-40

[belvedere]

My dad's vehicles are proof that you don't need synthetic oil to prolong engine life or prevent sludge. His vehicles are also proof that if you follow the owner's manual maintenance intervals, that your vehicle will last a very long time.

Correct. I like synthetics for their good flow in cold climates, but many engines have lived a good long life on dino.

To add to this, I'll say that as long as it's SL/SM-rated, there is no such thing as a bad oil anymore. Some are certainly better than others (like good/better/best), but any SL/SM oil has to be pretty decent just to earn the rating.

 

[belvedere]

oh yeah, as for those hyphenated oils, thats junk! No good redneck will have anything to do with hyphenated crap i am not dutch-american. My wife is not smith-jones and there is no 000w-30 in my engines! Nfw! You see that first number, say 0w-50? That means you get zero protection when the engine is cold. And the 5w, that is 5x0= protection. That dam dash costs more and gives less protection. They add them dam little moleecules to get that spacing. Now they done diluted the oil with moleecules. And what they don't tell you is once them little moleecules gets smashed you got your 0w-40 becomes 20w-20. Screw that!

One more thing, screw al gore. Be sure to dump the used oil in your front ditch or back fence.

lol!!

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

Implying 155,000 MILES is impressive

Let us know when he hits 300,000 MILES...

Your dad's Durango only has 11,000 miles on ThunderbirdJunkie's KJ...and ThunderbirdJunkie's KJ is not only one of the nicest running 3.7s he's encountered, especially at the mileage, but one of the QUIETEST.

If you don't want to run syn, that's fine, just don't tell everybody it's snake oil if you don't really know what's going on.

Anyway...with regular beatings, ThunderbirdJunkie has had small block Fords live well past 300,000 miles. They usually outlasted the Thunderbird they were originally in, and then found their way into another.

Always synthetic.

 

[tjkj2002]

With all due repect, you would do well to read some of the articles and posts on BITOG, and educate yourself on oil. Some of the statements you make about oil are ludicrous, such as saying that moly is bad for modern engines with tight tolerances. I'm sure you are a talented and accomplished mechanic, and you are helpful on this forum with mechanical advice, but being able to fix a vehicle does not make one an expert on oil.

I've read some of them and and there crap,can't even use the same oil in the different tests and then states that that one oil(only used in one test) is crap and uses oil no one ever has heard of let alone can even get anymore.I don't consider myself a expert on oil but with over 15 years of real world experience in the automotive field I know enough for what works and what does not and the adverse effects neglect will cause.I also dealt with UOA's for 5 years,try pulling samples from 1000 pieces of equipment(upwards of 6+ samples from all components) then going through all the paper work they send back. Doubt you now anything about oil but what you read on the internet,just because it's on the net does not make it true.

 

[tjkj2002]

ThunderbirdJunkie Quote:
Originally Posted by RageOfFury
Implying 155,000 MILES is impressive

Let us know when he hits 300,000 MILES...

Your dad's Durango only has 11,000 miles on ThunderbirdJunkie's KJ...and ThunderbirdJunkie's KJ is not only one of the nicest running 3.7s he's encountered, especially at the mileage, but one of the QUIETEST.

If you don't want to run syn, that's fine, just don't tell everybody it's snake oil if you don't really know what's going on.

Anyway...with regular beatings, ThunderbirdJunkie has had small block Fords live well past 300,000 miles. They usually outlasted the Thunderbird they were originally in, and then found their way into another.

Always synthetic.

X2

Heck I bought my '75 Cutlass with 278,000miles on the clock,ran great,no leaks,burned no oil also.Heck my old man's '01 PSD is over 700,000miles on the original engine(7.3) and trans and still pulls 20mpg's pulling 20,000lbs down the highway.

 

[speedracerbubba]

We had a work van that my dad used synthetic in it and at 200,000 he tore it down to inspect it and see if it needed anything as a preventative thing and it still had the honing marks in the cylinders (the van was regularly loaded close to the gvwr).

We have a couple 04 sprinter vans that spec mobil1 and without the engine monitoring (never looked into it so I can't say what it is specifically or what sensors/algorithms it uses to determine oil life) requires oil change every 5k miles and with the system it specs 10k. They both have over 150k with one being right at the 200k mark and aside from one turbo going out, not a singe mechanical problem or excessive noise.

I had a 73 ranchero with a 400m/c6 and though it had sludge and carbon everywhere, the bearings were pretty good for having 200+k on the clock (i got it from the original owner who always took it to a gas station service station for the oil change or a lube place if they had a great deal so no consistency in oil).


Does anyone have any experience with the mobil1 5,000 mile stuff at wally world? I am positive it is dino, but I just saw it the other day and just remembered it.

 

[belvedere]

Doubt you now anything about oil but what you read on the internet,just because it's on the net does not make it true.

Well, then, you'd be wrong again. I run a part-time business selling oils and lubes (no, not AMSOIL, though I think they make some quality products). I'm certainly not a chemist, but have had quite a bit of education, so that I can make good recommendations to customers. I pride myself on keeping up in the lubes field, but certainly don't know it all, and not afraid to say so. If I don't know the answer to a question, I'll find out.

The oil/lubes field is an interest of mine, and so it just gets under my skin when I see someone spreading false information. Imagine if you were on some generic automotive forum, and you read some post making a bunch of false claims about Jeep Libertys. You'd have to set the record straight, right? Nothing personal against the other poster, but you just wouldn't let his bogus stuff pass as fact for everyone to read, right? Well that's how this is for me.

Let's just take one of your claims...my personal favorite. Can you point to one credible piece of evidence that moly is somehow bad for an engine with tight tolerances? A recommendation from an oil company, a white paper, something...anything??? I mean, just cause you wrote it on the net...

 

[loves_off_roading]

I think you should stick with the 5W-30 as the engine calls for. You can probably get away with 10W-30 in the summer.

 

[Redbone]

.... small block Fords live well past 300,000 miles. They usually outlasted the Thunderbird they were originally in, and then found their way into another.

Always synthetic.

We had a work van that my dad used synthetic in it and at 200,000 he tore it down to inspect it and see if it needed anything as a preventative thing and it still had the honing marks in the cylinders (the van was regularly loaded close to the gvwr).

Well, both of you have successfully proved that you have wasted oil. Nothing more - nothing less! And speedracer proves people tear apart perfectly good engines to see if something of a metallic nature plans on braking in the future. I submit that cheap 30W will do and has done the same thing. Especially for engines that will be torn apart for no good reason.

As far as ASE Master Techs and oil, ASE Master Techs at local dealers are good for tearing chit apart and sometimes putting it back together right. I go to my local tribologist for oil recommendations .... and he says his daddy used 30W too with NO engine problems too. He recommends you guys in the hinterlands use 30W and get a frickin block heater.

And lastly ALWAYS DIY so you can dump the used oil on your fence row. If ya got wooden posts you put the filter on top to drain on 'em to slow rotting too.

 

[speedracerbubba]

Well, both of you have successfully proved that you have wasted oil. Nothing more - nothing less! And speedracer proves people tear apart perfectly good engines to see if something of a metallic nature plans on braking in the future. I submit that cheap 30W will do and has done the same thing. Especially for engines that will be torn apart for no good reason.

As far as ASE Master Techs and oil, ASE Master Techs at local dealers are good for tearing chit apart and sometimes putting it back together right. I go to my local tribologist for oil recommendations .... and he says his daddy used 30W too with NO engine problems too. He recommends you guys in the hinterlands use 30W and get a frickin block heater.

And lastly ALWAYS DIY so you can dump the used oil on your fence row. If ya got wooden posts you put the filter on top to drain on 'em to slow rotting too.

That van went 300k before being replaced due to size constraints. How many engines have you seen that have gone 200k being pushed most of those miles and still had the hone running dino? Not trying to be a smartass, just curious.
Prior to this particular engine he had to rebuild engines at around 150k (factory and rebuilt, drivers typically aren't easy on work trucks) running dino oil and he was curious how the engine running synthetic was doing.

Please explain how he wasted oil if he roughly doubled the life of the engine?

 

[Redbone]

Please explain how he wasted oil if he roughly doubled the life of the engine?

Not trying to be a smartass but where is the proof he doubled it?

 

[speedracerbubba]

Not trying to be a smartass but where is the proof he doubled it?

because I said so on the internet

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

Well, both of you have successfully proved that you have wasted oil.

Um...wasted oil
5k intervals
full syn
regularly thrashing small block fords to 7,000+ RPM (stock redline for stock bottom end is 4800)

Wondering where you're going with this?

 

[RageOfFury]

What is happening to this thread? I simply asked if 0W-40 was ok for the 3.7. No need for the synthetic fanboy-ism or "if you don't use synthetic, your damaging your engine" propaganda. wtf.gif

 

[Redbone]

because I said so on the internet

Good one! (bowdown)

Um...wasted oil
5k intervals
full syn
regularly thrashing small block fords to 7,000+ RPM (stock redline for stock bottom end is 4800)

Wondering where you're going with this?

Awwww hell, who knows? We stroked one and did the girdle thing. Lil Procharger added. Dam, it was sweet!

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twas not to be though.

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What is happening to this thread? I simply asked if 0W-40 was ok for the 3.7. No need for the synthetic fanboy-ism or "if you don't use synthetic, your damaging your engine" propaganda. wtf.gif

Ya got yer answer a long time ago, The rest is added fact (mostly already covered in other threads already), arguement, & fun. The reader can decide which is which. I think its calledthreadjacked.gif

 

[Dave]

Good one! (bowdown)



Awwww hell, who knows? We stroked one and did the girdle thing. Lil Procharger added. Dam, it was sweet!

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twas not to be though.

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Ya got yer answer a long time ago, The rest is added fact (mostly already covered in other threads already), arguement, & fun. The reader can decide which is which. I think its calledthreadjacked.gif

OMG........Were you ok????. Was that you Redbone??? geeeezzzzz....




And this thread really turned south, but I guess this is what happens when you use the wrong oil.................

Use whatever brand of oil you like, and be it regular or synthetic. and the viscosity recommended in your owners manual......and change it regularly.

Dave

 

[Redbone]

OMG........Were you ok????. Was that you Redbone??? geeeezzzzz....

That was my son. He took a guy for a quick ride. No fancy stuff, just a nice short cruise so they didn't take the time to put on the massive seat belts. Both were thrown clear and had minor injuries. The top ball joint came apart in a curve. We built the kit car using his mustang as a donor. It was about 5 weeks old.

 

[Redbone]

Seriously ..... Dad did get bunches of miles as did most others back in the late '50s early '60s (times I remember) using 30W. That makes me think we have a bit of overkill with -0W-70 super synthetic engine lube changed on 2k intervals with a filter change at 1k intervals. As for me living down south its 10W-30 or 10W-40 (depending on vehicle) M1 & a purolator ever 5k. Amsoil 2 stroke in ever thing from my bassboat to my weedeater.

 

[belvedere]

Seriously ..... Dad did get bunches of miles as did most others back in the late '50s early '60s (times I remember) using 30W. That makes me think we have a bit of overkill with -0W-70 super synthetic engine lube changed on 2k intervals with a filter change at 1k intervals.

I agree, and I use and like synthetics. I get peace of mind on those super cold mornings, and my engines are clean inside. However, too many people seem to think that if they don't use some expensive synthetic and change it more often than they change underwear, their engine will grenade. In all honesty, though, that's much better than the other extreme (using cheap bulk dino at the quick lube, and then forgeting to change it for the next couple years).

 

[Redbone]

One other thing - In discussions we all like to show our epeters. I've worked with rotating equipment in a chemical manufacturing for 33 years. I've dealt with engines, motors, steam turbines, gearboxes, etc. from lawnmower sized to 5000 h.p. stuff. We had lubrication situations that were beyond what the average layman can begin to comprehend. Add to that more years than I want to admit in experience with hobbies that always involved engines. Now 2 sons in the hobby with one of them a mechanical engineer that loves projects involving engines. He specializes in large rotating equipment at the ExxonMobil plant in Baton Rouge. That is just the big picture. That is the basis for MY epeter. Whats all this mean to most of you? Nothing!

All that being said guess what? I learn something from you guys on a regular basis. We all can. I'll pick on tjkj's ASE group as an example, a fountain of mechanical knowledge. BUT we built a '96 Camaro LT1 to 1000 h.p. Perfectly streetable.

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Nothing sticking out the hood. It still has the heat/sound blanket under the hood .... and rear hood seal. Turbocharged, intercooled, Meoh injected all built by us. Does anybody think we should go to a certified mechanic for information? When we have talked to the average ASE certified mechanic we found ourselves putting on a clinic as to what hurdles we faced and how we overcame them. BUT 2 weeks ago when I had several warning lights come on on my KJ and the owners manual didn't address this situation who did I go to. You guys and my local ASE mechanics.

Now as far as TBJ .....











....so I think you are right to leave the 0W-40 alone. Personally I would stick with 10W-30.