Mobil 1 European spec'ed 0W-40

[RageOfFury]

I can get a great deal on Mobil 1 European spec'ed 0W-40 which is a real synthetic oil compared to the North American "synthetics". Just wondering if I can use that weight/viscosity in my 3.7 KJ?

 

[tjkj2002]

I can get a great deal on Mobil 1 European spec'ed 0W-40 which is a real synthetic oil compared to the North American "synthetics". Just wondering if I can use that weight/viscosity in my 3.7 KJ?

I wouldn't,just stick with 5w30,cheaper and easier to find.Unless it states extended performance it is not a true synthetic from Mobil 1.Plus I believe the 0w40 is diesel oil which has a different additive package then gas engines require.


Oh and Mobil 1 extended performance is Mobil 1's true synthetic oil,the regular Mobil 1 is based of dyno base.

 

[RageOfFury]

I can get a deal on Mobil 1 Extended Performance as well. Shall I get M1 EP 5W-30?

 

[tjkj2002]

I can get a deal on Mobil 1 Extended Performance as well. Shall I get M1 EP 5W-30?

Yep,that's what I only use every 3000 miles.

 

[Dave]

As far as viscosity goes I have been using 5w30. Mine is an 05 and that is the preferred viscosity as noted on the oil cap and owners manual. Brand wise I have used the M1 and Valvoline synthetics, and changing every 4,000 miles. I havn't noticed any adverse affects.

Rage, does your 06 owners manual say 5w20? I know they changed the wt recommendation but probably for CAFE reasons (I am guessing here) as I don't believe they made any special internal engine changes to run the 5w20 wt oil in the newer 3.7L than my 05 model. In any event I don't see why you can't run the 5w30 as Troy says. I guess I would be leary of the 0w30 or 0w40 viscosity.

Troy, is the EP M1 that much better than the regular M1 if you are changing it in 3,ooo miles anyway?? (I know the M1 is from dino and the EP is from true syn - but you are only letting it stay in there for 3,000 miles) Either one is better than dino.

Dave

 

[RageOfFury]

Manual and Oil fill cap says 5W-30. I was thinking of going DIY and using synthetic oil but I will be moving soon and thus no more garage to do the work in.

I may just stick to the free dino oil changes the dealer offered me when I bought my KJ. Get it done every 3-4k KM or 3 months, whichever come's first.

My dad has always used dino oil in his 00 Durango. The Durango is up to 250 000 KM and the engine runs like it did from day 1. So dino oil isn't evil as some perceive it to be.

 

[ridenby]

Manual and Oil fill cap says 5W-30. I was thinking of going DIY and using synthetic oil but I will be moving soon and thus no more garage to do the work in.

I may just stick to the free dino oil changes the dealer offered me when I bought my KJ. Get it done every 3-4k KM or 3 months, whichever come's first.

My dad has always used dino oil in his 00 Durango. The Durango is up to 250 000 KM and the engine runs like it did from day 1. So dino oil isn't evil as some perceive it to be.

Believe the key is regular oil changes.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Believe the key is regular oil changes.

x2...synthetic or regular, just keep clean oil in there and all should be well.

 

[Marlon_JB2]

The only reason why I run synthetic is because it makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside. That, and I don't want to deal with sludge. (Plus, I drive so much that I get sick of changing it every 6 weeks)

I dump Valvoline SynPower in my 3.7L every 6K miles.

 

[JeepJeepster]

i dump valvoline synpower in my 3.7l every 6k miles.

valvoline!!! :d

 

[belvedere]

Mobil 1 every 3k miles is a waste of money, let alone Mobil 1 EP. Regular Mobil 1 could easily go double that, and probably 3x that. Of course, it's your money and you're free to do what you choose, but I don't want anyone else thinking it has to be changed so often.

Some engines are harder on oil than others. The key to establishing an OCI in a given engine with a given oil is to run used oil analyses (UOAs) and see how things are looking. Most labs will tell you if the oil was at the end of it's useful life, or if you can go longer next time. They look at not only wear metals, but viscosity, fuel dilution, TBN, etc, to determine useful life of an oil.

If you're not familiar with UOAs, here's some to browse through:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=3&page=1

 

[belvedere]

BTW, where did you learn that Mobil 1 is Group III? Mobil won't say. I even know of a spectrograph analysis that was done to determine if it contained any group III, and the results were inconlusive. I would say it really doesn't matter, because it is either group IV or a group III/IV blend, and seems to offer pretty good performance either way. I would agree that the EP is likely a group IV base, but again, Mobil won't tell, so no one knows for sure.

 

[Redbone]

My dad has always used dino oil in his 00 Durango. The Durango is up to 250 000 KM and the engine runs like it did from day 1. So dino oil isn't evil as some perceive it to be.

ding - ding - ding, we have a winner. All dad ever used was Shell 30W and NEVER had an engine failure. I use Shell Rotella 30w in everything except my truck. 40W in it for heavy pulling. Even use Rotella in my 2 stroke mix. 200 h.p. Merc will run @ 6k r.p.m. all day long. We pulled the heads to machine .030 off of them. Ever thing inside was perfect with no carbon build up.

Oh yeah, as for those hyphenated oils, thats junk! No good redneck will have anything to do with hyphenated crap I am not Dutch-American. My wife is not Smith-Jones and there is no 000W-30 in my engines! NFW! You see that first number, say 0W-50? That means you get ZERO protection when the engine is cold. And the 5W, that is 5X0= protection. That dam dash costs more and gives less protection. They add them dam little moleecules to get that spacing. Now they done diluted the oil with moleecules. And what they don't tell you is once them little moleecules gets smashed you got your 0W-40 becomes 20W-20. Screw that!

One more thing, screw Al Gore. Be sure to dump the used oil in your front ditch or back fence.

So take a lesson from dad, 30W (40W if you drive hard or pull heavy loads) and a new oil filter ever 5k miles. Your engine will still be running like new when every other part on the vehicle is worn out. I prefer Shell Rotella and Purolator.

 

[JJsKJ]

ding - ding - ding, we have a winner. All dad ever used was Shell 30W and NEVER had an engine failure. I use Shell Rotella 30w in everything except my truck. 40W in it for heavy pulling. Even use Rotella in my 2 stroke mix. 200 h.p. Merc will run @ 6k r.p.m. all day long. We pulled the heads to machine .030 off of them. Ever thing inside was perfect with no carbon build up.

Oh yeah, as for those hyphenated oils, thats junk! No good redneck will have anything to do with hyphenated crap I am not Dutch-American. My wife is not Smith-Jones and there is no 000W-30 in my engines! NFW! You see that first number, say 0W-50? That means you get ZERO protection when the engine is cold. And the 5W, that is 5X0= protection. That dam dash costs more and gives less protection. They add them dam little moleecules to get that spacing. Now they done diluted the oil with moleecules. And what they don't tell you is once them little moleecules gets smashed you got your 0W-40 becomes 20W-20. Screw that!

One more thing, screw Al Gore. Be sure to dump the used oil in your front ditch or back fence.

So take a lesson from dad, 30W (40W if you drive hard or pull heavy loads) and a new oil filter ever 5k miles. Your engine will still be running like new when every other part on the vehicle is worn out. I prefer Shell Rotella and Purolator.

^^^
hah.gif

 

[JeepJeepster]

ding - ding - ding, we have a winner. All dad ever used was Shell 30W and NEVER had an engine failure. I use Shell Rotella 30w in everything except my truck. 40W in it for heavy pulling. Even use Rotella in my 2 stroke mix. 200 h.p. Merc will run @ 6k r.p.m. all day long. We pulled the heads to machine .030 off of them. Ever thing inside was perfect with no carbon build up.

Oh yeah, as for those hyphenated oils, thats junk! No good redneck will have anything to do with hyphenated crap I am not Dutch-American. My wife is not Smith-Jones and there is no 000W-30 in my engines! NFW! You see that first number, say 0W-50? That means you get ZERO protection when the engine is cold. And the 5W, that is 5X0= protection. That dam dash costs more and gives less protection. They add them dam little moleecules to get that spacing. Now they done diluted the oil with moleecules. And what they don't tell you is once them little moleecules gets smashed you got your 0W-40 becomes 20W-20. Screw that!

One more thing, screw Al Gore. Be sure to dump the used oil in your front ditch or back fence.

So take a lesson from dad, 30W (40W if you drive hard or pull heavy loads) and a new oil filter ever 5k miles. Your engine will still be running like new when every other part on the vehicle is worn out. I prefer Shell Rotella and Purolator.

Surely your not being serious?

 

[Redbone]

Surely your not being serious?

Your saying my daddy and Rage's daddy was wrong????????

 

[RageOfFury]

Lol...

My dad's vehicles are proof that you don't need synthetic oil to prolong engine life or prevent sludge. His vehicles are also proof that if you follow the owner's manual maintenance intervals, that your vehicle will last a very long time.

He had an 88 XJ from 1988 to 2000. It had 301 000 KMs on it when he switched to the Durango. Always used dino oil. Never had any engine problems. No sludge either.

His 2000 Durango has 250 000 KMs on it and it's still going strong. Again, always used dino oil. No engine problems, no sludge.

I was just curious about synthetic oil since it's on sale this week. But, I'll follow my dad's advice and follow what the owner's manual says.

 

[tjkj2002]

Mobil 1 every 3k miles is a waste of money, let alone Mobil 1 EP. Regular Mobil 1 could easily go double that, and probably 3x that. Of course, it's your money and you're free to do what you choose, but I don't want anyone else thinking it has to be changed so often.

Some engines are harder on oil than others. The key to establishing an OCI in a given engine with a given oil is to run used oil analyses (UOAs) and see how things are looking. Most labs will tell you if the oil was at the end of it's useful life, or if you can go longer next time. They look at not only wear metals, but viscosity, fuel dilution, TBN, etc, to determine useful life of an oil.

If you're not familiar with UOAs, here's some to browse through:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=3&page=1

Changing your oil every 3000miles is not a waste of money,not enen a waste using full synthetic.Over 90% of all ASE Master Tech's in this country(who deal with this everyday) still recommend changing your oil every 3000miles,and yes I am 1 of those 90%+ of ASE Master Tech's.

You may choose to go farther but I would highly recommend a oil UOA every 1000miles after 5000miles to make sure your oil is still good.


Oh and that bob the oil guy is a idiot and you can blow holes through all of his stuff with ease.

 

[belvedere]

Oh and that bob the oil guy is a idiot and you can blow holes through all of his stuff with ease.

I've tried to explain to you before: Bob sold the site years ago. The link I provided is simply UOAs posted by members, in case someone is not familiar with UOAs, and wanted to see what they look like. I'm sure there are idiots on the site (most forums have some!), but there are also many experts, including some chemists and tribologists.

With all due repect, you would do well to read some of the articles and posts on BITOG, and educate yourself on oil. Some of the statements you make about oil are ludicrous, such as saying that moly is bad for modern engines with tight tolerances. I'm sure you are a talented and accomplished mechanic, and you are helpful on this forum with mechanical advice, but being able to fix a vehicle does not make one an expert on oil.

 

[belvedere]

Here's a link to a virgin oil analysis of M1 EP 5W30. Don't look now, but there's moly in there!
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1335663#Post1335663