Kj on 35's

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tommudd

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Anyone else see this? 2005 Jeep Liberty Renegade 4x4 Black

It looks good, but it doesn't mention any mods

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Been seen,
He was on here
lots done, JBA, Rock Lizard
Plus has my rear bumper
35s don't work :thumbsdown::thumbsdown::thumbsdown:
there is a reason its for sale
after such a short amount of time
 

the_dealer

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Hahaha, yea I didn't think it would work out very well, especially offroad. It looks pretty damn good though.

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tjkj2002

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Hahaha, yea I didn't think it would work out very well, especially offroad. It looks pretty damn good though.

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Yeah it's a great lawn ornament but that is it,would break just driving to the mall.




The only way to put 35"s on a KJ.......................
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tommudd

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40s??
Heck we ran 38s and 40s on Dodge vans back in the late 70s
nothing new Bill needs to go 44s at least :shrug::icon_lol:
 

Jbergun

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40k invested looks good why don't 35s work sorry total noob
 

WickedBruce

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Yea hit besides the BDS KJ, I don't think k anyone else is running that large of a tire. Except maybe that kj in Florida on a k5 frame or whatever
 

tjkj2002

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Not the only way TK, one could use a d60 [emoji41]
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a 60 is way overkill for 35" tires,granted I do run a RJ60 in the rear but it's not a full floater and gives me more clearance then a D44.


Heck to build a bullet proof 60 your looking at $10k easily,good luck finding a Ford HP60 for less then $1000,kingpin one your starting out at $1500.
 

the_dealer

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What the hell? We have "rules" at my house about painting differentials on the kitchen floor.....
We do too: ALWAYS lay down a piece of cardboard or newspaper...[emoji482]

TK, I look at it like this. It's all about trying to run the strongest you can and spend as little as possible, yet still maintain some reliability. A d60 is the best way to do that 90% of the time, and can be half as expensive as a crate d44. I build almost all axles the same way: re-gear, upgrade the hubs, do a QUALITY full bearing replacement , locker, new brakes, new BJ's, and upgrade the steering. If you can catch a deal on used locker and steering the overall cost of the build can be surprisingly cheap. I paid $350 for the axle pictured, and completely rebuilt it, and still kept the total cost under $800. I've held onto it because just owning a decent d60 will get you laid, but hoped to reuse it in another rig. My plan never changes: Do a full bearing replacement & hub upgrade with quality parts, lunchbox locker(ARB if money allows), redo the brakes, and replace Kingpins or BJ's. You then have an axle that's stronger than a built d44, gives you the option in the future for 37"+ tires, and cost half what a crate axle would. I admit there are a couple disadvantages such as less clearance over a d44, but that can be easily fixed by shaving the housing or using more skinny pedal.

What I don't understand is y'all guys out west can get a good tcase for $50 all day long, but pay $1000k-1500 for a worn out ass d44, 9"or d60. Here we pay 350-500 for d60's in decent shape, but have to pay $300 for a worn out ass tcase that most likely has a bent output shaft or trashed bearings.

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tjkj2002

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We do too: ALWAYS lay down a piece of cardboard or newspaper...[emoji482]

TK, I look at it like this. It's all about trying to run the strongest you can and spend as little as possible, yet still maintain some reliability. A d60 is the best way to do that 90% of the time, and can be half as expensive as a crate d44. I build almost all axles the same way: re-gear, upgrade the hubs, do a QUALITY full bearing replacement , locker, new brakes, new BJ's, and upgrade the steering. If you can catch a deal on used locker and steering the overall cost of the build can be surprisingly cheap. I paid $350 for the axle pictured, and completely rebuilt it, and still kept the total cost under $800. I've held onto it because just owning a decent d60 will get you laid, but hoped to reuse it in another rig. My plan never changes: Do a full bearing replacement & hub upgrade with quality parts, lunchbox locker(ARB if money allows), redo the brakes, and replace Kingpins or BJ's. You then have an axle that's stronger than a built d44, gives you the option in the future for 37"+ tires, and cost half what a crate axle would. I admit there are a couple disadvantages such as less clearance over a d44, but that can be easily fixed by shaving the housing or using more skinny pedal.

What I don't understand is y'all guys out west can get a good tcase for $50 all day long, but pay $1000k-1500 for a worn out ass d44, 9"or d60. Here we pay 350-500 for d60's in decent shape, but have to pay $300 for a worn out ass tcase that most likely has a bent output shaft or trashed bearings.

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You can't even look at a Ford HP60 for less then $1200 here,that is one just pulled from the donor not built at all.You can buy HP30's are like $100 all day.


More throttle maybe okay in mud but out here that is a no-go unless you like replacing parts on the trail so max clearance is key.Even that extra 1/2" can make or break you on the rocks.And since we are talking about rocks(and big ones at that) you really don't want to shave a D60 housing,C14 yeah but not a D60.
 

RATX5

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That's one damn good looking rear bumper. Was going to ask if anyone knew if it was discontinued or what have you, but judging by the above posts i'm assuming it was a one off someone made and got swindled out of and it somehow along the way picked up the Rock Lizard name? Either that, or I'm looking at the completely ass backwards, lol.
 

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