HOW TO: Install an EVIC or OTIS (overhead computer)

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MightyCRD

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bluebel1 said:
Just for the record, I have a 2006 CRD Sport, sunroof, tow package, with Moabs, and rusty lift kit (2.5 inches) and shocks.

LOL - I've got the same, minus all the extras you have ... and I used to live in College Station - not too far from Brenham ... maybe we ought to get together and compare notes on the CRD ....


chetos said:
That might be a big hole to do that and probably wouldn't be able to cover it up with the evic. Just take out your visors and slide it up under the headliner. You do have to pull down a bit but it will go.

I was kind of figuring that .... just wasn't sure if I would be able to pull the headliner down far enough without creasing it or messing it up ... I'm pretty excited ... looking forward to getting the EVIC installed .... Thanks!
 

MightyCRD

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SUCCESS

EVIC installed fine - unfortunately, got it off-center by around a 1/4 inch or so towards the passenger side. Everything works great tho - thanks for all the input and help!
 

bluebel1

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Old Murrphy is hangin around for awile longer. I hooked up everything, EVIC, sunroof controls and light controls. I installed the EVIC looks good, but some problems.
I now have three lights on the dash that are permanently on. The ABS, the ESP ABS and ESC or a picture of vehicle with skid marks.
I don't know what I have done to get that.
I have unhooked the power lead controlled by the ignition and I still have the lights after it is running.
I have turned the iginition on and off and it has cycled through and I still have but I did not look for a code.
I could disconnect my light connector on the evic and see if they go away and or I could unhook my sunroof connector and see if they go away or I could unhook the EVIC connector to see if they go away.
HELP! Anyone have any suggestions?
 

bluebel1

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I also noticed that when I pushed a button on the EVIC from miles per gallon, to miles before empty, or another function, I would get a chime from the steering wheel area, just like when the key is in, but only when I pushed a button to step through the settings.
Anyone know what I should check, I do not want to take to dealer, that is the last place I would want to go. I can fix this with a little help.. I do not have a wiriing diagram on the 2006 KJ, does anyone have one they could share?
 

KJ808

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BluPhant - Thanks! And my apologies for duping info. I haven't gone deep into the forums yet. I'm getting there though - slowly. *Sigh* there are so many things to learn. 8-[
 

BluPhant

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All good, welcome aboard! Theres a lot of good info here, and a lot of good people.

-Blu
 

resipsa

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I've got my eye on an EVIC from a 2003 Libby. It's got a pig tail, but I assume I'll need to fabricate a wire loom. Does anyone know what gauge wire is used on these? AWG 18? And do you know if it's solid or stranded?

Oh, one other thing, someone posted this question earlier in the thread, but it was never answered. Any recommendations re: what ignition-on "hot" wire to connect to?

Thanks, guys!
 

chetos

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resipsa said:
I've got my eye on an EVIC from a 2003 Libby. It's got a pig tail, but I assume I'll need to fabricate a wire loom. Does anyone know what gauge wire is used on these? AWG 18? And do you know if it's solid or stranded?

Oh, one other thing, someone posted this question earlier in the thread, but it was never answered. Any recommendations re: what ignition-on "hot" wire to connect to?

Thanks, guys!

I think I used 18...go back to page one and follow the link and it tells you where to hook up the connections. On the ignition, I just poked around until I found one that came on with the ignition.
 

sideshowant

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whats up all? o,k so i found an evic from an 04 kj. but i'm not sure if it'll work with my 05 cause i don't have the overhead light already their. i only have one light in the middle of the headliner. any suggestions or am i screwed?

thanks,
 

resipsa

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I just got the EVIC without TPMS I bought off eBay. It has the pigtail, so I'm all set re: wiring. BUT I'm wondering now whether it's possible to just replace the plastic bezel/light assembly? The one I bought has the single sunroof switch. I don't have a sunroof (and I'm not really interested in a dealer-added sunroof), and I'd rather not have a useless sunroof switch in my overhead console. Alternatively, is there some kind of plastic blank I can pop in the cutout for the switch? The dead switch is more of an annoyance than anything else, so I'll live with it if I have to. :-({|=

i used the + from the cigarette lighter

If memory serves, the cigarette lighter in my 2003 works even if the ignition is off (I believe I have left my phone charging while I ran into the store). If that's true, wouldn't it drain the battery to use the + on the cigarette lighter?
 

BluPhant

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For 2002s we have 2 cig lighters, one is a power plug. I believe the lighter is switched, the power plug is constant.

Ideally you want a wire that is switched with the ignition, and preferably also available in "AUX" position. A constant power source is ill advised, as it would indeed drain the battery. I'm not sure how it would affect your MPG calculations, either.

-Blu
 

resipsa

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Seems like this topic has already been beaten to death, but I have a question that's not really answered above. Many of the posts address whether non-KJ EVICs will show ambient temperature on a 2004+ Liberty. I haven't seen anyone discussing pre-2004 KJs. I have a 2003, and I just purchased an EVIC from a 2003 GC (the part number on the module matches the part # table on the install page). So, the question is, can I expect my ambient temp to not work? I did buy the KJ temp sensor from my dealer ($40!), just in case it will.
 

the_titan

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That has been addressed, and it will work. The only reason that Grand Cherokee EVICs don't show the temperature is because 04+ are CANBUS based, like the DCx LX platform. Prior to that they were compatible with the Liberty, which still runs PCI.
 

resipsa

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Thanks for all the info, guys. I successfully installed my EVIC over the weekend. There were only a few catches. First, I discovered that I, too, have 4.5mm / 7/32 hex screws holding the A pillar in place. I ran all over the place (frantically--it was Sunday at 6 p.m.) until I found a deep 7/32 at Murray's. The next problem came when I tested the EVIC for the first time--it was dead! I rechecked my connections and discovered I had a lousy ground connection. Once I tightened that up, the EVIC lit up like a Christmas tree. The last problem was that the temp display was -40F (it was cold in my garage, but not that cold). I pulled the temp sensor apart and reseated it, and the ambient temp in my garage went from -40F to 59F. Much better!

One other thing--I found a good wire to use for the "hot" (the white/blue wire on the EVIC). I connected it to a wire on the HVAC controls (possibly the rear defroster) which is only hot when the ignition is on.

I took a bunch of pics as I worked on the project. They're pretty similar to what's already been posted, though, so I won't put them up here unless someone wants to see them.

Next up: Install a dome light over the back seat. I just purchased a Dodge Ram dome light on eBay for $10. I will take pics of that project, too, as I think many people are interested in that one.
 

icarl

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USB OTIS

I just wanted to add that I installed an OTIS last week in my 02 Liberty. There was no plug connector with it. However, I discovered that a computer USB motheboard connector fits perfectly.
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I ran a USB A-A ext cable
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from the OTIS USB connector to the dash where I installed the other USB MB connector there wired into the wires under the dash. Now I can say my OTIS is USB. \:D/
 

the_titan

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I don't believe that wire is anywhere near thick enough and would advise anyone else against it. I believe they are somewhere along the lines if 22-24 ga, VERY small wires and few strands. Consider that this is not just data being run through them. 3 out of four wires carry power. The stock wiring is 18ga and when you get down that small the disparity from 18 to 20 AWG is huge.
 

icarl

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the_titan said:
I don't believe that wire is anywhere near thick enough and would advise anyone else against it. I believe they are somewhere along the lines if 22-24 ga, VERY small wires and few strands. Consider that this is not just data being run through them. 3 out of four wires carry power. The stock wiring is 18ga and when you get down that small the disparity from 18 to 20 AWG is huge.

That's true. However, we are just powering an LCD display. Works for laptops so why not here. I haven't had any problems with it so far.
 
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