HOW TO: Change power steering high-pressure and return hoses

Discussion in 'How To' started by AVR2, Feb 6, 2011.

  1. kjpachinko

    kjpachinko New Member

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    Hi,
    I would like to do this but have a few newbie questions that might sound dumb.
    1. Is the return hose a separate piece from the high pressure hose?
    2. How is everyone replacing the return hose with limited the limited space? Do you have to take the grill off?
    3. Do I need a special tool for the plastic rivets?

    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. JeepJeepster

    JeepJeepster Full Access Member

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    Changed out my PS hose last night.. Took around 2hrs but I took my time and enjoyed it. Wouldve went a little quicker if I realized just how easy it is to get the fan and shroud out. My gosh, it takes less than 30 seconds.

    Took exactly 0.5qts to fill it back up once the hoses were replaced. Didnt take anything out except the fan+shroud.

    I found it impossible to find a 18mm flare nut wrench. Craftsman use to sell a 10pc set that included the 18mm flare nut wrench. Either way, I found a set of stub wrenches on sale for $14 at lowes.. So I bought both the metric and SAE.. Always wanted a good set of stub wrenches. Even through they weren't flare nut they worked wonderfully. It is nice to take the oil filter off..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Gates Hose from RockAuto:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Took a good 5 seconds to bend the clamp off them bend it around the news hoses:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Not sure if the hose was seeping or if the connection was leaking.. But heres the old hose:

    [​IMG]

    Installed:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. stn

    stn Full Access Member

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    Quick question on replacing the High Pressure Hose

    I'm a first time Jeep owner, I just bought a "new to me" 02 Liberty. I'm finding that it is a great machine, but after 11 years of service, it needs some care. The Power Steering line, along with a rear pinion seal being the most urgent. With this right up, I'll be handling the PS line in a few weeks, just one question;


    ...after installation and fluid replacement, am I correct to understand that simply running the engine will purge the air from the system?

    Thanks in advance,

    stn
     
  4. mightybeet

    mightybeet Full Access Member

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    ...i too would like to learn this mysterious technique of bleeding the power steering.
     
  5. mightybeet

    mightybeet Full Access Member

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    haynes says in paraphrase... with front wheel in straight ahead position, check fluid. if low add until cold mark

    start engine and run fast idle. check fluid, add to reach cold mark.

    bleed by turning wheel side to side without hitting stops. keep reservoir full of fluid as this is done.

    when air is worked out, return to straight ahead position and leave running for several minutes and then shut off.

    road test and recheck fluid is at hot mark at normal engine temps. add if needed.
     
  6. pontipine

    pontipine New Member

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    Just did this today. Thanks for all the tips!
    I ended up taking off the painted body section.
    Then removed the drivers side fog light. The bolts for the are right there. Got the rear one with a long extension and universal. Front one is actually under the fog light . I dremelled a hole in the black plastic mount for the foglight to get at it with a socket.
    Took some penetrating oil and gentle working to free bolts due to the rust.
    I bought crows foot style flare nut wrench ends for a 3/8 drive to free the hydraulic lines. Could not find the 16 and 18mm flare nut wrenches in time.
    Cheers
     
  7. falcn

    falcn New Member

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    CRD pressure hose is not as fun

    I am down to getting the lines off the front of the steering gear and I don't have stubby or crowsfoot flare nut wrenches handy.

    Time to take a trip to the store I guess...it is REALLY tight in there to get the lines off of the steering gear!
     
  8. uss2defiant

    uss2defiant Full Access Member

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  9. vaksanov

    vaksanov Full Access Member

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    Hey guys so my power steering is leaking as well. But the question is, is it 100% the hose that is probably leaking? I looked from all the angles and there is fluid and gunk on the reservoir itself, on the bottom, and on the hoses as well. I am not sure where it's leaking from??? If it leaks from the hose, could it splatter on the bottom of the reservoir and make it look like it is leaking as well? There was fresh fluid on the buttom of it???
    I don't know where to start and another thing is I don't know what fluid the previous owner topped it off with, hopefully the right ATF+4 because I don't want to add it and mess it up. Either way I guess I will start with the hose and see if it fixes it (fingers crossed).
     
  10. JeremyBlaze

    JeremyBlaze New Member

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    Looks like I'm about to do this too. Just replaced the pump and the o ring and its still leaking. I can see it dripping off the sensor. Could it be the sensor itself? Otherwise it must be leaking right at the hose end and running down.
     
  11. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Just did mine, had pump off 3 different times, kept trying to find a 16 mm wrench. Craftsman would be 10 days, Harbor Freight no, NAPA didn't have one needed to order, finally found one at Lowes of all places.
    Not hard to do but having the right tools was a *****.
    Never had to have a 16 MM before
     
  12. JeremyBlaze

    JeremyBlaze New Member

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    I did not get a 16mm. I had no problems using an adjustable wrench.

    I did discover the jeep had already had the ps pump and Rack and pinion changed before I got it as well.

    Looks like I will be ordering a hose next. The leak appears to be coming at the hose end, right at the pump.
     
  13. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Mine were original at 214,000 miles so were tight/ some rust and did I mention tight??? :icon_lol: PITA
    PLUS gave me an excuse to buy some new tools which is always a good day if I need them or not
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2015
  14. profdlp

    profdlp On The Ledge

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    I wondered why both of my socket sets skipped the 16mm and 18mm. Guess they are not needed that often, huh?
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2015
  15. neilbedwell

    neilbedwell New Member

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    I just finished replacing the hoses on my Liberty. Why would you reuse the old clamp and not the new one? Just curious.
     
  16. SWilliams

    SWilliams Full Access Member

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    OK just did the hoses on the 03.
    The 02/03 years are easier than the later rigs. They have better access.
    Step one get the new lines. If either line is leaking replace ALL of them. Return and pressure both. Make sure you get the correct lines. On the pressure side some have a pressure switch others don't, on the return side some have a cooler others don't. Look before you order.


    To remove the bracket for the pressure lines, pull the grill, the LS headlight and the LS turn signal. Look through the hole in the rad support and you can see the two bolts. Reach in through the turn signal opening with a 10mm wrench to remove them (gearwrench or GM side terminal wrench is your friend)

    Toss down a tray/pan to catch any fluid that you leak/spill.

    Next remove the 18mm fitting from the rack. For easier access remove the electric fan and shroud, if you have heavy duty cooling pull the mechanical fan as well. Pop the serpentine belt off, possibly the oil filter as well to get more room as needed.
    You have a couple options here. 18mm flare nut wrench, 18mm crows foot flare nut wrench or you can simply slice the old crimp sleeve in a couple spots, pry it off and pull the hose off the line, then slide a box end 18 down onto the fitting. (you can also bend the line to crimp it, then cut above the bend to get the wrench on BUT don't just cut the steel line, the steel filings can go directly into the rack. Not Good)

    OK you have the 18 off, get the 16 mm under the pump next. Now if you don't have a 16mm wrench don't panic, usually you can use a 5/8" wrench on most 16 mm items. If you have the pressure switch on this line disconnect the wire first. Then break the fitting loose. Fish it out the line and remove the pressure switch. Install it on the new line. I usually do the return lines before I reinstall the pressure lines because you have more room. If you're not then install the new line.

    Now remove the return lines, these are easier because they are low pressure. If you have a cooler the easy way is to cut both lines, remove the bolts holding the cooler to the rad support and pull the cooler and lines out. Now attach the new lines to the cooler and fish the lines back through the support and into the engine bay. Remove the line with the fitting from the rack and install the new line (make sure you have the o-ring in place) remove the clamped end from the reservoir and install the new one.

    Install the pressure line and clean up the fluid. Reinstall the pieces removed to get to all the various bolts and fittings. Now to bleed the system. Fill the reservoir up, leave the cap loose, start the engine and turn the wheel back/forth a few times. Top off the fluid, repeat with the wheel until the fluid stops dropping. Take it for a drive and get it up to temp. Check the fluid level. Add if needed. Enjoy the lack of leaks.

    I read a few posts where people couldn't tell for sure which line is leaking. Quick way to find out. With the engine off, wipe up the leaking fluid and get things as dry as possible. Now start the engine and look at the fittings. The return lines usually leak there. No leaks? Probably the pressure line. To test that turn the wheel to either side until it hit's the stop. Now look again BUT DO NOT STICK YOUR HANDS OR FACE DOWN CLOSER "TO GET A BETTER LOOK" THE LEAK WILL BE UNDER HIGH PRESSURE, HIGH ENOUGH TO INJECT FLUID INTO THE SKIN!!!

    In the case of the 03 it didn't leak setting or under idle. When the wheel was turned to the stop it looked like a fountain!! The pressure line had degraded and had at least 4 pressure leaks. Even then it only lost about 1/2 pint of fluid over 2 weeks.
     
  17. Kapox

    Kapox New Member

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    Anyone knows how to remove the mechanical clutch fan? (The one connected to the water pump). My KJ have it and is a big headache to do anything in the engine bay. Any answer will be very aprreciated.
     
  18. uss2defiant

    uss2defiant Full Access Member

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  19. dude1116

    dude1116 Full Access Member

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  20. HoosierJeeper

    HoosierJeeper Gold Supporter/Admin Staff Member Administrator

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    No idea. I just got an Edelmann one from rockauto for like $30, looked just like the OEM one and has been fine for a year. Used Mopar orings though.