How To: Change a Front CV Axle

[lfhoward]

Tom, how long do bearings typically last? I'm within a thousand miles of 170K now, and they are still all original. (knocking on wood as I type this... )

 

[deltsigjames]

Tom, I totally agree that you can run without CV's installed, assuming you have the correct hub bearing. After replacing this hub/bearing with Moog part number 513178, I am running without CV's right now. However, one Timken part number requires 100 Ft-lbs to axle nut torque to maintain proper preload on the bearing. Timken part number HA590458 requires you have 4wd. Without axle in place and proper torque, the bearing separates. If I had not been cautious and listening for noises, I could have lost a wheel (brake caliper might have kept it on). This is literally the only part on RA requiring this. Not the end of the world but hopefully it can avoid someone else making the same mistake.

 

[tommudd]

Where did you come up with the 100 foot lbs on the wheel bearings, just curious, never seen that

 

[deltsigjames]

It states 100 ft-lbs in the document that comes with the Timken bearing. I also verified the procedure on Timken website. I assume it is a clamping load required to hold the housing together. It did not take long to separate the bearing as I heard grinding as soon as I backed out of garage. After 1/8 mile I heard a metal part hit the road. Got home and there was 1/2 in of side to side movement in both wheel ends. I installed these bearings about 3k miles ago thinking that was where my noise was originating. I had no issues with these until I removed the CV shafts.

 

[Slugger103]

OK...working on replacing most parts up front. I'm on the passenger side and removed the CV and the intermediate shaft came out with it. I was able to finally pull the intermediate shaft loose & remove it from the old CV while I had it in a vise on the bench. Any trick on how to install the intermediate shaft onto the new CV? New CV's are NAPA NMD 958355 for the passenger side. It looks like there is some kind of snap ring without tabs/holes on the end of the intermediate shaft that goes into the CV.

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[Leeann]

There is a snap ring with holes. Clean the grease well.

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[Slugger103]

There is a snap ring with holes. Clean the grease well.

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Problem is, my CV from NAPA is fully assembled.......

 

[tommudd]

OK...working on replacing most parts up front. I'm on the passenger side and removed the CV and the intermediate shaft came out with it. I was able to finally pull the intermediate shaft loose & remove it from the old CV while I had it in a vise on the bench. Any trick on how to install the intermediate shaft onto the new CV? New CV's are NAPA NMD 958355 for the passenger side. It looks like there is some kind of snap ring without tabs/holes on the end of the intermediate shaft that goes into the CV.

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Just install the Intermediate shaft back in, you'll feel it pop into place, then install the CV, you'll feel it as well when it pops into its place

 

[tommudd]

Problem is, my CV from NAPA is fully assembled.......

she is showing you the front driveshaft repair kit being installed

 

[Slugger103]

she is showing you the front driveshaft repair kit being installed

Got it. Thanks!

 

[Leeann]

she is showing you the front driveshaft repair kit being installed

Yeah - oops. Probably shouldn't post from the phone when I don't have reading glasses with me...sorry.

 

[YleKyote]

Hello. New here and to Jeeps, 2007 Liberty, 140,000 miles (owned since 67,000), all stock. Daily driver for daughter. What's the minimum amount of assemblies one must disconnect to get the passenger side CV axle out to replace it? Oftentimes just one of the ball joints must be disconnected to swing the knuckle up or down to remove the axle from the hub spindle. Does this work with the 2007 passenger side? I am a minimalist in almost all things! I have to replace hers this weekend as the outer boot tore and she drove it until it went dry and messed it up.

Also, there are now 3 companies selling axles for cheap with free to very low and fast shipping plus Lifetime Warranty. First is 1AAUTO.COM, another is CarParts.com, and the third is AM-Autoparts.com (10 year warranty). The axles are $70 to $90 for a single or $145 for the front pair. Pretty good deal I thought. Driveshafts also. And...no core so the old one can be kept as a toy, rebuit or sold, etc. When one fails in warranty all ya do is order a new one and email for RMA and mail old one in, then they refund the new purchase.

These Jeeps fry shafts faster than anything I've owned! 3 front 4x4 driveshafts and now this for a easy-streets daily road cruiser.

Thanks for article and answers!

 

[lfhoward]

To get the CV out you’ll need to remove the brake calipers, rotors, axle nut, upper ball joint, tie rod ball joint, and clevis. If you turn the knuckle and lean it outwards, you can get the CV axle out of it and then out of the front diff.

In theory you could remove the brake caliper, axle nut, wheel bearing, and clevis, but leave the knuckle attached at all joints. But removing wheel bearings can be so much of a pain that I haven’t heard of anyone doing it that way.

Also, driveshaftparts.com has the rear CV for the front driveshaft so that you don’t have to replace the whole thing. Greasy but easy job and can be done for under $40.

 

[YleKyote]

Thanks. Another guy said he leaves the brakes on, and removes the tie rod, lower ball joint and axle nuts and clevis nut and it maneuvers around enough to pull axle out of hub and then the differential.

An 1A Auto video says to remove the wheel hub bearing assembly and everything else except the lower ball joint. I think they must do that to promote people to change more parts.

I never attempt to get the wheel bearing assembly out unless I take the whole knuckle off and want to replace the bearing. They are always a pain!

 

[franksmothers1983]

-First things first you will need your new axle. Napa is your best bet. good axles with a lifetime warranty. The core charge on the axle is pretty hefty but you will get your money back later
-Second you will need a axle nut socket. I wouldnt spend any money on one unless your really really rough on the trails and plan on breaking some axles. Autozone has a loan a tool program where you pay for the tool but get all your money back. They dont have a 35mm like you need but they do have a 36mm and that works perfectly.

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-Now time to get dirty, With the tires on the ground loosen the axle nut and lugnuts, i think on stock rims you have to loosen it with the tire off. Then hit the end of the axle with a big hammer once just to get it loosened up

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-Jack up the front of the jeep and use a jackstand to secure the side your working on, and remove the tire.

-Remove the lower strut bolt and sway bar endlinks and then remove the clevis from the strut

-Remove ball joint nuts and pop the ball joint out of the hub. I used a strap to secure the hub from falling and messing up the brake line. Made the whole job a lot easier.

(remove everything that is marked in blue)

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-Insert a pry bar between the transmission and the CV axle it will pop out pretty easy. Try to be easy on the axle seal and pull the axle straight out and not at an angle.

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-Once the old one is out you can toss the new one right in its place.

-Put the axle through the hub with the axle nut finger tight to hold it in.

-Put the ball joints, sway bar link, and strut bolt back together.

-Put your wheel and lug nuts on, lower the jeep and tighten the lugnuts and axle nut. (stock rims may have to tighten axle nut while wheel is off)

-Return the old axle for your core money, and return the socket for that money back.

-Enjoy your new axle with lifetime warranty and its non greasy goodness!!!

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Has anyone experienced a gap (+/- 3/8" ) between the new driver side CV and the differential causing the hub not to be able to be properly reinstalled on the knuckle?