How To: Change a Front CV Axle

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twack

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-First things first you will need your new axle. Napa is your best bet. good axles with a lifetime warranty. The core charge on the axle is pretty hefty but you will get your money back later
-Second you will need a axle nut socket. I wouldnt spend any money on one unless your really really rough on the trails and plan on breaking some axles. Autozone has a loan a tool program where you pay for the tool but get all your money back. They dont have a 35mm like you need but they do have a 36mm and that works perfectly.

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-Now time to get dirty, With the tires on the ground loosen the axle nut and lugnuts, i think on stock rims you have to loosen it with the tire off. Then hit the end of the axle with a big hammer once just to get it loosened up

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-Jack up the front of the jeep and use a jackstand to secure the side your working on, and remove the tire.

-Remove the lower strut bolt and sway bar endlinks and then remove the clevis from the strut

-Remove ball joint nuts and pop the ball joint out of the hub. I used a strap to secure the hub from falling and messing up the brake line. Made the whole job a lot easier.

(remove everything that is marked in blue)

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-Insert a pry bar between the transmission and the CV axle it will pop out pretty easy. Try to be easy on the axle seal and pull the axle straight out and not at an angle.

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-Once the old one is out you can toss the new one right in its place.

-Put the axle through the hub with the axle nut finger tight to hold it in.

-Put the ball joints, sway bar link, and strut bolt back together.

-Put your wheel and lug nuts on, lower the jeep and tighten the lugnuts and axle nut. (stock rims may have to tighten axle nut while wheel is off)

-Return the old axle for your core money, and return the socket for that money back.

-Enjoy your new axle with lifetime warranty and its non greasy goodness!!!

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jnaut

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Are there any specific torque recommendations you can add into the how-to?
 

mightybeet

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anything fancy about changing the passenger side front cv axle, like extra steps and/or other look outs?
 

TwoBobsKJ

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anything fancy about changing the passenger side front cv axle, like extra steps and/or other look outs?

You may be forced to change the intermediate shaft which connects the passenger side CV axle to the diff. It's not unusual for the CV to be rusted to the intermediate shaft so you can't get them apart - best to order the shaft and the CV together.

Bob
 

mightybeet

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just had it done with new tires. is it required to get the alignment done after changing the axle?
 

Tinkrr

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as soon as you disconected the strut you affected the camber so an alignment check at least, is required
 

TwoBobsKJ

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as soon as you disconected the strut you affected the camber so an alignment check at least, is required

Not true.

Essentially once the clevis fork is removed all that does is take pressure off the lower control arm. Putting it back together doesn't change any of the geometry - if it does the adjustment cams would have to be loose.

Remember, the front of a Liberty doesn't contain struts- they are simply coilover shocks. The Libby has upper and lower control arms with the spring going through the upper control arm (though not connected to it) and then is connected to the lower control arm via the clevis.

Now if you change the relationship of the clevis to the coilover shock by way of conduit nuts or simply spacing it differently then, yes, you'll put it out of alignment and need to get an adjustment.

Changing out the CV axle does NOT require an alignment.

Bob
 

2-old

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Shackle arm problem

Just changed front driver CV joint today. My problem is the rear shackle arm will not line up with the hole on the LCA. It is off by halfway low. I have a BDS lift and changed the Pass. side last week with little problems.

I have tried jacking the LCA up, putting tire on and letting the weight down on it, and prying up and down. I have the shackle bolt in from the front, but it just won't line up.

All help is appreciated in advance as it is my only vehicle and I need it by Tuesday at the latest. I know it is just probably a simple problem, but I am out of ideas.

Thank You
John
2-old
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Are you talking about the lower clevis bolt?

If so, loosen the bolt at the top of the clevis at the base of the shock so the clevis can twist. If necessary attach a ratchet strap to the lower part of the clevis and the other end to a suitable attachment point on the passenger side of the undercarriage. Tighten the ratchet strap so the clevis is pulled toward the center of the Jeep. Get the clevis lined up with the LCA, put in the bolt then release the strap.

Bob
 

bmiddled

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Just Bought an 04 replacing all bushings from one end to the other. This was todays chore.CV's Thanks for the write up and especially Pictures. Pics are worth a thousand words.
 

the-spot

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Awesome help thanks. For a beginner at it, it wasn't to bad. Anyone know how to change the rack and pinion? And/or how to change the CV joint boot?
 

TwoBobsKJ

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There is a How-To on here for the R&P replacement - the links for the pictures are dead but the explanation is excellent.

As for the CV Joint boot: Which CV joint? For the shafts coming out of the front diff or for the front driveshaft coming from the transfer case?

Bob
 

riptricket

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Took out the cv and my inner differential shaft has no splines. Rock auto does not have it for the front diff so where does one get it from?
It is the male some inside the did itself.
 

riptricket

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None there... seriously can't find one guess I will ask the dealership tomorrow
 

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