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I noticed last week that as I drive there's a squeaking/creaking noise when my suspension is moving. I have a 2005 liberty renegade. I did some research and it can happen when the rubber things are all busted up, which mine are. The internet said its probably loose or old ball joints or control arms but that they could also just need to be re-lubricated. Ideally I can just re-lubricate some joints as it will be easier and cheaper but I doubt it'll be that easy. I've only had the car for a couple months but its at 98k miles and probably hasn't had any serious maintenance done. On a side note, what are the big things I should do when it hits 100 miles? I'm not a skilled mechanic in anyway. I'm a 17 year old senior who is kind of broke and half decent at fixing things. I intend on trying to repair this myself because I'm broke and for the experience. Anyway, the most important thing right now is is it safe for me to continue driving? I don't want to risk an accident, I'm planning on driving to an amusement park with some friends over the weekend ( about an hour and a half drive each way) but also don't want to call it off. Also it would be a couple weeks before I could get around to repairing it because of my busy schedule.
Squeaking noise from front Axle
- Thread starter soleil128
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- front axle sqeaking noise
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Morning Soliel 128,
Not sure if you still have your Liberty! My vehicle also has a creak in the front suspension that is caused by the rubber bushings. If you spray Q20 or WD40 on each front bush in turn with test drives after each spray you will isolate which bush is the noisy one. Speed bumps are the best place to test for these noises. It's often the bushes in the yoke for the front shocks which although noisy are not safety critical - just irritating!
Regarding the front suspension one has to keep a close eye on the ball joints (mainly the lower one) - check at every service. If the ball joint boot is torn it's much easier to replace just the boot if it hasn't been torn for too long. Just clean out the old grease and add some fresh grease when refitting the new ball joint boot. Message me if you need to know this procedure as I wrote it up! The front CV joint boots have to be checked at regular intervals as well (service time). A failed CV boot also flicks spots of grease up onto the fender liner - easy to see.
On the rear suspension it's usually the bushes and central ball joint in the "boomerang" that make the rear noises. As stated earlier it's cheaper and easier to buy a completely new "boomerang"! The diff trailing arms are usually bulletproof as they have big bushes. Rear shocks are what limit the rear diff downward travel. The longer the rear shocks the better your Jeep will perform offroad. The only limiting factor is that when the shock is at full extension the rear springs must still held in place (by the shocks)! Check one rear wheel at a time not both at the same time!
Not sure if you still have your Liberty! My vehicle also has a creak in the front suspension that is caused by the rubber bushings. If you spray Q20 or WD40 on each front bush in turn with test drives after each spray you will isolate which bush is the noisy one. Speed bumps are the best place to test for these noises. It's often the bushes in the yoke for the front shocks which although noisy are not safety critical - just irritating!
Regarding the front suspension one has to keep a close eye on the ball joints (mainly the lower one) - check at every service. If the ball joint boot is torn it's much easier to replace just the boot if it hasn't been torn for too long. Just clean out the old grease and add some fresh grease when refitting the new ball joint boot. Message me if you need to know this procedure as I wrote it up! The front CV joint boots have to be checked at regular intervals as well (service time). A failed CV boot also flicks spots of grease up onto the fender liner - easy to see.
On the rear suspension it's usually the bushes and central ball joint in the "boomerang" that make the rear noises. As stated earlier it's cheaper and easier to buy a completely new "boomerang"! The diff trailing arms are usually bulletproof as they have big bushes. Rear shocks are what limit the rear diff downward travel. The longer the rear shocks the better your Jeep will perform offroad. The only limiting factor is that when the shock is at full extension the rear springs must still held in place (by the shocks)! Check one rear wheel at a time not both at the same time!
