HOW TO: 42RLE Transgo Shift Kit Install

[osufans]

Tools needed - T25 torx bit, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, floor jack, jack stands, snap-ring pliers, various length screwdrivers for prying, hammer, something with fine point to remove piston seals (I used an awl.) You will also need between 7-9 quarts ATF+4.

- Jack up front end and follow all safety precautions (jack stands, wheel chucks, etc.)
- Remove front driveshaft - Mark your driveshaft position in relation to the front and rear hub with chalk or marker. Loosen and back-out, but you don't have to completely remove the bolts (8mm) on the front and rear shaft.

You must be registered for see images attach

- Use a screwdriver or punch to tap hubs loose from housings. To remove driveshaft, first remove rear hub, then lift it and push it back, then while holding it up, grab front hub and compress bushing so you can lower it out of the housing.
- Disconnect shift linkage from shift lever by prying off, then move shift lever to furthest rear position so you can access the shift lever nut (see pic.)

You must be registered for see images attach

Use a 13mm socket to loosen, then remove shift lever (it is keyed, so you don't have to worry about marking position.)
- Disconnect TRS electrical connector (driver's side) and Solenoid electrical connector (passenger side.) The Solenoid connector is hard to see, and is a real pain to get to. You may have to get creative to get it loose, or remove the passenger side exhaust. I actually just left it connected and pulled the wiring down through the transmission housing, and was able to disconnect it after it was pulled through.

You must be registered for see images attach

- Remove the drain pan and drain fluid. Bolts are 10mm.
- Once fluid is drained, remove filter (use T25 bit,) and hex head bolts holding valve body to transmission (10mm.) CAUTION - two pistons are held in place by the valve body - during removal they will fall down. They are located at the rear of the valve body housing. If you are careful about lowering the valve body, you can catch them before they fall out.
- Now that the valve body is removed, follow instructions for the shift kit install.

Here is the valve body removed and taken apart. Note the two pistons in the upper right, these are what come out when you remove the valve body.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here is the shift lever and how it attaches to the valve body. This is what held me up the longest...and why you have to remove the front driveshaft...grrrrrr.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here is a pic of the old spring (left) vs the new spring spacer (right) that goes in the pistons, which decreases shift lag.

You must be registered for see images attach

To remove the regulator valve, you have to remove the retainer clip. You have to pry back the valve to relieve tension so you can remove the retainer.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here's a pic of the old and new springs for the regulator valve. New spring is orange. This is what is supposed to boost pressure, which quickens shifts and shift firmness.

You must be registered for see images attach

Reinstallation is just as fun. Follow directions in reverse order. Make sure everything is CLEAN!! I used parts cleaner to clean all surfaces, then put on a pair of clean latex gloves to keep the valve body clean during reinstall.

To install the two valves, you will have to hold the valve body in place while installing the valves, then lift the valve body into place and hold in place with the valve body bolts (hex head bolts.)

And finally, here's a pic of my helper, and his face tells it all.....

You must be registered for see images attach

I will update with the feel, but like I said, first impressions are nice. Has a quicker shift between 1-2 and 2-3, but I didn't really get on it too much until I reset the TCM though.

Just to note, I was able to find a few Service Manuals on the net, which have some good detailed overviews of the transmission and valve body. They would be helpful to look over if you run into any problems.

If you have any issues let me know and I'll try to help out. I'm by no means a professional mechanic, but I can handle the typical DIY jobs. This was by far one of the most time-consuming jobs I've attempted. If you have a place to set it up and work at your own pace, you shouldn't have any problems...but be advised, leave yourself plenty of time if you are working on your daily driver and don't have access to a loaner. GOOD LUCK!!

 

[JeepJeepster]

Much needed write up. I had no clue that shifter needed to be removed like that. Seems very straight forward once you get that unhooked.

 

[osufans]

Yeah, I found the FSM for the 42RLE and saw the notation about removing the shift lever when removing the valve body, and figured as much. I called my local mechanic who also verified that was what was keeping me from getting the valve body out. It's just a pain to get to that nut without removing the front DS.

Between figuring that out, and getting to the wiring harnesses, that was the only real pain with doing this job.

You know how it goes, now that I've done this once, I could probably do the whole thing beginning to end in under 2 hrs.

 

[cuatroXcuatro]

How hard is the shift between 1st and 2nd, enough to chirp the tires?
Your clutch packs are going to last way longer. Nice writeup. Which kit is this, SK604-42LE?

 

[osufans]

How hard is the shift between 1st and 2nd, enough to chirp the tires?
Your clutch packs are going to last way longer. Nice writeup. Which kit is this, SK604-42LE?

Yes, that is the kit.

Well, after doing the TCM reset (pull battery cable for whatever...10 mins to an hour...hehe) I lost all feel of it. It is slowly coming back, but still similar to stock.

BEFORE I reset the TCM, yeah, nice quick shifts, but no, not even close to tire chirping.

Probably the only electronic transmission that I have seen an appreciable response with this kit is the Ford Ranger 5r55e. This kit was night and day difference on that ******, which is the only reason I attempted it on my Jeep. I put one in my Dodge Ram 545RFE and it was so-so. Couldn't say I really noticed a huge improvement on that one either.

Chrysler must do A LOT of pressure management within the TCM. The only time I really notice a decent improvement is when you are accelerating hard, then the shifts are definitely crisp and quick, but I wouldn't say too much firmer.

 

[belvedere]

Excellent write-up!

 

[|V3nom|]

is the 42rle 4wd only?

 

[Dmut]

is the 42rle 4wd only?

no, 2WD KJ's use the same 42RLE

 

[dan9298]

Thanks for the excellent write-up. How much force did it take to pull out the valve body? I've followed everything above, but it still doesn't seem to want to come out. Also, the black metal rod (shown in behind the shift lever in your pics) looks like it might be attached with some sort of clip or spring, but I can't get the valve body down enough to really tell. Is there a clip or does it just pull out?

Edit - I found in a parts manual that the black rod I referred to is called a 'parking sprag'. Should this just slide out?

 

[DoverKJ]

Installing the shift kit and ran into a problem. When reinstalling the two accumulator valves, which direction do the go back in? Piston facing up or down.

Thanks

 

[bmrrwolfe]

Any way we could get some updates on the dead pics?

Also has anyone else done this upgrade and have any input on it? Was it worth it??

 

[danh7029]

Reply for transgo shift kit

:killit: Im doing this as im reading along, and a real easy way to do this instead of the driveshaft removal and exhaust removal is to place a jack under the transmission crossmember, remove 2 -15mm nuts holding the muffler together to the Y pipe, separate muffler, remove the 6 bolts (3 at each end) holding the crossmember up, then slowly lower the jack till just before the engine oil pan touches the front crossmember. This will now give you room to reach the electrical connectors easily by hand and remove the 13mm nut holding the shifter linkage etc. this saves the frustration of the y pipe removal, and driveshaft removal. Then continue with previous instructions

 

[osufans]

Any way we could get some updates on the dead pics?

Also has anyone else done this upgrade and have any input on it? Was it worth it??

Sorry about the pics...I changed the profile I share pics under, so it killed the links. I'll see about getting them updated.

As far as was this worth it? I don't know. It was definitely not as good an upgrade in other transmissions I've added this kit to. You could really feel a difference before doing a transmission relearn...but once you do the relearn, it pretty much falls back to the same soft shifting. I do notice it still shifts a bit quicker when you're on the throttle, but if you're just gently accelerating, it's still the same squishy soft shifting as stock.

 

[osufans]

:killit: Im doing this as im reading along, and a real easy way to do this instead of the driveshaft removal and exhaust removal is to place a jack under the transmission crossmember, remove 2 -15mm nuts holding the muffler together to the Y pipe, separate muffler, remove the 6 bolts (3 at each end) holding the crossmember up, then slowly lower the jack till just before the engine oil pan touches the front crossmember. This will now give you room to reach the electrical connectors easily by hand and remove the 13mm nut holding the shifter linkage etc. this saves the frustration of the y pipe removal, and driveshaft removal. Then continue with previous instructions

I didn't pull the exhaust, just the driveshaft, and that was only so I was able to remove the gear selector lever from the gear shaft. However, lowering the transmission x-member probably would work out better for getting to the electrical connection on the passenger side. That was still a pain to get to.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

As far as was this worth it? I don't know. It was definitely not as good an upgrade in other transmissions I've added this kit to. You could really feel a difference before doing a transmission relearn...but once you do the relearn, it pretty much falls back to the same soft shifting. I do notice it still shifts a bit quicker when you're on the throttle, but if you're just gently accelerating, it's still the same squishy soft shifting as stock.

Well, after reading this about the ****** feeling just as mushy after the re-learn,
I don't think I'll bother with this mod then.
I think I'll buy a PML Alloy ****** pan instead.

 

[Bodie]

Any word on the pics? How did you get the park lever back in? I am fighting right now...

 

[dahlah45]

Desperately trying to get shift lever back into place but I can't see far enough up to do it. Any info would be greatly appreciated