osufans
Full Access Member
Tools needed - T25 torx bit, 8mm socket, 10mm socket, 13mm socket, floor jack, jack stands, snap-ring pliers, various length screwdrivers for prying, hammer, something with fine point to remove piston seals (I used an awl.) You will also need between 7-9 quarts ATF+4.
- Jack up front end and follow all safety precautions (jack stands, wheel chucks, etc.)
- Remove front driveshaft - Mark your driveshaft position in relation to the front and rear hub with chalk or marker. Loosen and back-out, but you don't have to completely remove the bolts (8mm) on the front and rear shaft.
- Use a screwdriver or punch to tap hubs loose from housings. To remove driveshaft, first remove rear hub, then lift it and push it back, then while holding it up, grab front hub and compress bushing so you can lower it out of the housing.
- Disconnect shift linkage from shift lever by prying off, then move shift lever to furthest rear position so you can access the shift lever nut (see pic.)
Use a 13mm socket to loosen, then remove shift lever (it is keyed, so you don't have to worry about marking position.)
- Disconnect TRS electrical connector (driver's side) and Solenoid electrical connector (passenger side.) The Solenoid connector is hard to see, and is a real pain to get to. You may have to get creative to get it loose, or remove the passenger side exhaust. I actually just left it connected and pulled the wiring down through the transmission housing, and was able to disconnect it after it was pulled through.
- Remove the drain pan and drain fluid. Bolts are 10mm.
- Once fluid is drained, remove filter (use T25 bit,) and hex head bolts holding valve body to transmission (10mm.) CAUTION - two pistons are held in place by the valve body - during removal they will fall down. They are located at the rear of the valve body housing. If you are careful about lowering the valve body, you can catch them before they fall out.
- Now that the valve body is removed, follow instructions for the shift kit install.
Here is the valve body removed and taken apart. Note the two pistons in the upper right, these are what come out when you remove the valve body.
Here is the shift lever and how it attaches to the valve body. This is what held me up the longest...and why you have to remove the front driveshaft...grrrrrr.
Here is a pic of the old spring (left) vs the new spring spacer (right) that goes in the pistons, which decreases shift lag.
To remove the regulator valve, you have to remove the retainer clip. You have to pry back the valve to relieve tension so you can remove the retainer.
Here's a pic of the old and new springs for the regulator valve. New spring is orange. This is what is supposed to boost pressure, which quickens shifts and shift firmness.
Reinstallation is just as fun. Follow directions in reverse order. Make sure everything is CLEAN!! I used parts cleaner to clean all surfaces, then put on a pair of clean latex gloves to keep the valve body clean during reinstall.
To install the two valves, you will have to hold the valve body in place while installing the valves, then lift the valve body into place and hold in place with the valve body bolts (hex head bolts.)
And finally, here's a pic of my helper, and his face tells it all.....
I will update with the feel, but like I said, first impressions are nice. Has a quicker shift between 1-2 and 2-3, but I didn't really get on it too much until I reset the TCM though.
Just to note, I was able to find a few Service Manuals on the net, which have some good detailed overviews of the transmission and valve body. They would be helpful to look over if you run into any problems.
If you have any issues let me know and I'll try to help out. I'm by no means a professional mechanic, but I can handle the typical DIY jobs. This was by far one of the most time-consuming jobs I've attempted. If you have a place to set it up and work at your own pace, you shouldn't have any problems...but be advised, leave yourself plenty of time if you are working on your daily driver and don't have access to a loaner. GOOD LUCK!!
- Jack up front end and follow all safety precautions (jack stands, wheel chucks, etc.)
- Remove front driveshaft - Mark your driveshaft position in relation to the front and rear hub with chalk or marker. Loosen and back-out, but you don't have to completely remove the bolts (8mm) on the front and rear shaft.
You must be registered for see images attach
- Use a screwdriver or punch to tap hubs loose from housings. To remove driveshaft, first remove rear hub, then lift it and push it back, then while holding it up, grab front hub and compress bushing so you can lower it out of the housing.
- Disconnect shift linkage from shift lever by prying off, then move shift lever to furthest rear position so you can access the shift lever nut (see pic.)
You must be registered for see images attach
Use a 13mm socket to loosen, then remove shift lever (it is keyed, so you don't have to worry about marking position.)
- Disconnect TRS electrical connector (driver's side) and Solenoid electrical connector (passenger side.) The Solenoid connector is hard to see, and is a real pain to get to. You may have to get creative to get it loose, or remove the passenger side exhaust. I actually just left it connected and pulled the wiring down through the transmission housing, and was able to disconnect it after it was pulled through.
You must be registered for see images attach
- Remove the drain pan and drain fluid. Bolts are 10mm.
- Once fluid is drained, remove filter (use T25 bit,) and hex head bolts holding valve body to transmission (10mm.) CAUTION - two pistons are held in place by the valve body - during removal they will fall down. They are located at the rear of the valve body housing. If you are careful about lowering the valve body, you can catch them before they fall out.
- Now that the valve body is removed, follow instructions for the shift kit install.
Here is the valve body removed and taken apart. Note the two pistons in the upper right, these are what come out when you remove the valve body.
You must be registered for see images attach
Here is the shift lever and how it attaches to the valve body. This is what held me up the longest...and why you have to remove the front driveshaft...grrrrrr.
You must be registered for see images attach
Here is a pic of the old spring (left) vs the new spring spacer (right) that goes in the pistons, which decreases shift lag.
You must be registered for see images attach
To remove the regulator valve, you have to remove the retainer clip. You have to pry back the valve to relieve tension so you can remove the retainer.
You must be registered for see images attach
Here's a pic of the old and new springs for the regulator valve. New spring is orange. This is what is supposed to boost pressure, which quickens shifts and shift firmness.
You must be registered for see images attach
Reinstallation is just as fun. Follow directions in reverse order. Make sure everything is CLEAN!! I used parts cleaner to clean all surfaces, then put on a pair of clean latex gloves to keep the valve body clean during reinstall.
To install the two valves, you will have to hold the valve body in place while installing the valves, then lift the valve body into place and hold in place with the valve body bolts (hex head bolts.)
And finally, here's a pic of my helper, and his face tells it all.....
You must be registered for see images attach
I will update with the feel, but like I said, first impressions are nice. Has a quicker shift between 1-2 and 2-3, but I didn't really get on it too much until I reset the TCM though.
Just to note, I was able to find a few Service Manuals on the net, which have some good detailed overviews of the transmission and valve body. They would be helpful to look over if you run into any problems.
If you have any issues let me know and I'll try to help out. I'm by no means a professional mechanic, but I can handle the typical DIY jobs. This was by far one of the most time-consuming jobs I've attempted. If you have a place to set it up and work at your own pace, you shouldn't have any problems...but be advised, leave yourself plenty of time if you are working on your daily driver and don't have access to a loaner. GOOD LUCK!!
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