How did this happen??

[LibertyOrDeath]

My radiator seems to have swollen and then cracked open. Fortunately, the new one is only $165. I can't figure out why and how to keep it from happening again. Here are some pictures of my radiator and engine compartment. I damaged a few fins trying to see the damage and if I could weld, solder, superglue, duct tape, or paste it. Would a faulty radiator cap or letting my engine hit redline cause this. Is it more likely just a junk radiator.

Front face of radiator

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Bottom front of radiator

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Bottom rear of radiator

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Closer view of the damage, the hairline crack goes from the squared notch outwards an inch in each direction.

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Rear face of radiator.

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Back side of A/C condenser.

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Condenser, sway-bar and pulleys. Note the wear mark by the trans cooler lines. That bar is the lower mount for the radiator, it would also protect it from any damage.

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Trans cooler, condenser, pulleys. Note the wear mark again.

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Black stuff around water pump and alternator pulley.

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[tjkj2002]

Well you should always replace the cap and hoses when you replace the radiator(good time to do the t-stat also).

Couple of things could have caused that damage........

1-bad cap
2-bad t-stat
3-bad water pump
4-plugged radiator


You can hold your foot down and let the KJ hit the rev limiter all day long with no issues,hence why the rev limiter is there.That 3.7 was bench tested at redline RPM for at least 200+ straight hours.

 

[kj924]

That could be over pressurization on the rad....but it looks more like water freezing between the tubes. This probably happened during the winter as snow, ice, whatever it may be, has froze after you shut it down. The lower part of the rad is the hardest hit with normal wear and tear....seen it many times. Most rads I have replaced looked exactly like yours when you take them out.

 

[LibertyOrDeath]

Well you should always replace the cap and hoses when you replace the radiator(good time to do the t-stat also).

Couple of things could have caused that damage........

1-bad cap
2-bad t-stat
3-bad water pump
4-plugged radiator


You can hold your foot down and let the KJ hit the rev limiter all day long with no issues,hence why the rev limiter is there.That 3.7 was bench tested at redline RPM for at least 200+ straight hours.

I already swapped out the cap. Where is the thermostat located? It doesn't look like it is on the top of the water pump, at least it doesn't look like a typical thermostat housing.

How would I know if it was either of those 4?

What I meant by red-line was just a jack rabbit start and having the engine shift at red-line (or the maximum shift point, what ever that is called.) I first noticed the leak after I passed a car and a stopped a few minutes later and saw my radiator leaking (more like a nice spray of coolant). It stopped spraying and became just a dribble. Monday, I gunned it going up a hill and it really started to spray. Fortunately at the top of the hill is my house.

 

[kj924]

The last pic looks as if someone was at the belt with some type of belt dressing.

 

[tjkj2002]

I already swapped out the cap. Where is the thermostat located? It doesn't look like it is on the top of the water pump, at least it doesn't look like a typical thermostat housing.

How would I know if it was either of those 4?

What I meant by red-line was just a jack rabbit start and having the engine shift at red-line (or the maximum shift point, what ever that is called.) I first noticed the leak after I passed a car and a stopped a few minutes later and saw my radiator leaking (more like a nice spray of coolant). It stopped spraying and became just a dribble. Monday, I gunned it going up a hill and it really started to spray. Fortunately at the top of the hill is my house.

The t-stat is located on the engine side of the lower radiator hose.

Well you you already replaced 2 of the 4.

Higher the engine RPM the faster the waterpump impeller is spinning which equals more pressure.

 

[LibertyOrDeath]

The t-stat is located on the engine side of the lower radiator hose.

Well you you already replaced 2 of the 4.

Higher the engine RPM the faster the waterpump impeller is spinning which equals more pressure.

That is why I didn't choose to be an auto mechanic for a living. Then again I can only imagine where Ford put the thermostat on my Escape.

I am thinking 3 of the 4. Thermostat is only $20.

How would the water-pump cause that damage to the radiator. Would it just be from a leaking water-pump that causes corrosion and eventual failure.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

It would be from corroded/clogged passages combined w/the pressure...

 

[LibertyOrDeath]

The pressure of.. what? The flux capacitor or the water pump?

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

Mostly your halogen fluid, but partially the water pump

 

[LibertyOrDeath]

Ok so all is said and done. I put in 2 gallons of water and have ran it for about 30 miles. The expansion tank is still full and I cannot get any more coolant in. My book says 14 quarts but I am only getting 8 in. Is something wrong?

 

[kj924]

14 quarts would be the entire cooling system right? The engine block will still have coolant remaining after draining the rad.

 

[LibertyOrDeath]

14 quarts would be the entire cooling system right? The engine block will still have coolant remaining after draining the rad.

I pulled both hoses and the thermostat. Wouldn't that get all the coolant out of the system?

 

[tjkj2002]

I pulled both hoses and the thermostat. Wouldn't that get all the coolant out of the system?

No,you'd have to pull both block drain plugs to get all the coolant out of the engine.

 

[LibertyOrDeath]

Where are they??

 

[moparman]

He didn't say the water pump caused the failure. Your radiator was failing anyway.