Head bolts

[eddiekimberly]

After I torque the head bolts to, I think its 20 ft lbs, do I REALLY put a pull handle on them and turn them 90 degrees and then do it again??? That seems awful tight.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

After I torque the head bolts to, I think its 20 ft lbs, do I REALLY put a pull handle on them and turn them 90 degrees and then do it again??? That seems awful tight.

Yes, you torque the bolts to the specified amount, then turn the bolt 90 degrees, go back to the first bolt in the sequence and turn them all 90 degrees for a second time. If I remember correctly not all of the bolts get tightened to 20 ft lbs; I think some of them only get tightened to 10 ft lbs, then you go back to them and tighten them to 19 or 20 ft lbs - no 90 degree turn on them.

That's what the FSM says so it must be true. Be sure to check the shoulders of the bolts; if there is any stretching evident then DON'T USE THEM! Get another set.

EDIT: Bolts 1 thru 8 in the cylinder head diagram get torqued to 20 ft lbs then 90 degrees, then back through the sequence a second time and turn them 90 degrees again. Bolts 9 thru 12 get tightened to 10 ft lbs the first time thru then back thru a second time and tighten them to 19 ft lbs.

Bob

 

[streetglideok]

Yep what Bob said. Throw the old head bolts away, and put in new ones. These bolts stretch, and that is why they must be torqued as such. Some engines are way worse than that. As long as your threads are clean, the new bolts will take it, don't worry.

 

[eddiekimberly]

About ready to see what size hole a 7.62x54 will put in an engine block. I got it all back together and it's running but over heats in about 10 miles. Get back home and I have water sitting in the recesses in the head where the injector sits on the front passenger side. Have no clue where it comes from. I am at a loss.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

About ready to see what size hole a 7.62x54 will put in an engine block. I got it all back together and it's running but over heats in about 10 miles. Get back home and I have water sitting in the recesses in the head where the injector sits on the front passenger side. Have no clue where it comes from. I am at a loss.

Are you sure the thermostat is installed in the correct orientation? The "cone" should be facing INTO the block. If it's backward it will restrict coolant flow as the engine gets hotter - which will cause the overheating. Don't feel bad if it's installed backwards - it is very common to do so.

Also, the fluid you're seeing around the injector may be fuel, not water. When I did my engine swap, on initial startup one of the injectors on the passenger side was not seated properly on the fuel rail and was leaking enough to puddle gasoline in the recess on the top of the head. Reseated the injector on the fuel rail and problem was solved. It's worth a try...

Bob

 

[eddiekimberly]

The diagram I saw showed the spring facing into the block. The puddling didn't smell like gas and was boiling from the heat. It DID overheat but not to the point of a warning indicator coming on.

 

[eddiekimberly]

OK, went to try once again to burp the system and had the wife inside. Said she heard these 2 kinda popping noises then the heat warmed up a bit. So I decided to take it for a drive and see what happens. The heat was blowing considerably warmer on the passenger side, almost ambient temp on the driver side. It went a bit over halfway on the temp gauge. Went about halfway between 1/2 and 3/4 but never tried to get over that point. I am hoping to discover after it cools off a bit that we are a bit low on coolant and that the pops she heard was the system burping. Also, when we got home I popped the hood and could hear boiling/gurgling. Could it just need coolant at this point or could I need a new radiator cap?

 

[streetglideok]

You did put coolant in it, and not straight water, correct? Did you remove the bleeder plug where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine when filling? Sounds like an air pocket still in the engine. Be careful, running it at an elevated temp, even if not in the red zone could cause issues down the road. Just by chance, why were you pulling the heads in the first place?

 

[eddiekimberly]

It is coolant mix. The head gaskets were blown. Puffing white smoke and missing when I first cranked it up. Heater was cold and was overheating. Talked to my mechanic to verify it was a head gasket and he agreed. I tried to pull the plug but couldn't get it off. Had to try to burp it the old fashioned way.

 

[streetglideok]

You might also consider, what the headgasket the cause of your woes, or collateral damage? I would make sure you have coolant circulation, indicating a good water pump impeller. Also make sure your electric cooling fan operates. It is the primary cooling fan of the engine, even on those with the auxiliary mechanical fan.

 

[eddiekimberly]

I pulled the waterpump and the impeller is in new condition and spins freely and the electric fan operates fine. I saw it cycle myself 2 or 3 times tonight, tho I have considered putting on a mechaniceal fan for low speed driving when on the beach. By the way, what flippin size is that bleeder plug?