Fuel Pump Wiring Alternative

[fishdad]

Hi all,

New to the forum and to jeep with a 2006 KJ 3.7L V6 2WD. I bought it for cheap knowing it needed some work and had a check engine light for a u1411 code. I confirmed that gauges work by holding the odometer button, and replaced all the parts that needed it. I started to tackle the u1411 code by replacing the fuel pump, ignition switch, and checking the fuses. None of these fixed the issue, even after clearing the code.

However, while I was replacing the pump, I saw that the wiring connecting to the fuel pump looked pretty janky like the previous owner had spliced it before, pics attached below.

My questions are:
1. could damaged wires give the u1411 code?
2. what fuel pump wiring harnesses are compatible with a 2006 KJ?
On mopar, it's listed as part number 56047848AB, but it's discontinued and I can only find the connector with the wires cut on ebay.

I'd want to replace that whole segment vs splicing it again, and any advice is appreciated!

 

[DadOSix]

Hi all,

New to the forum and to jeep with a 2006 KJ 3.7L V6 2WD. I bought it for cheap knowing it needed some work and had a check engine light for a u1411 code. I confirmed that gauges work by holding the odometer button, and replaced all the parts that needed it. I started to tackle the u1411 code by replacing the fuel pump, ignition switch, and checking the fuses. None of these fixed the issue, even after clearing the code.

However, while I was replacing the pump, I saw that the wiring connecting to the fuel pump looked pretty janky like the previous owner had spliced it before, pics attached below.

My questions are:
1. could damaged wires give the u1411 code?
2. what fuel pump wiring harnesses are compatible with a 2006 KJ?
On mopar, it's listed as part number 56047848AB, but it's discontinued and I can only find the connector with the wires cut on ebay.

I'd want to replace that whole segment vs splicing it again, and any advice is appreciated!

Consider shopping that part number at a Napa Auto Parts near you. They can likely match a connector and pins in their Belkin line of auto electrical. I got some great OEM style plugs for some GM applications that I could not source at a reasonable price. Napa had it overnite, good pricing too. You would need the connector and pins. Maybe a bit of wire and solder those connections. Crimps are not likely to hold up as well.

 

[fishdad]

Consider shopping that part number at a Napa Auto Parts near you. They can likely match a connector and pins in their Belkin line of auto electrical. I got some great OEM style plugs for some GM applications that I could not source at a reasonable price. Napa had it overnite, good pricing too. You would need the connector and pins. Maybe a bit of wire and solder those connections. Crimps are not likely to hold up as well.

I'll check it out! I want to avoid soldering if I can, but I'll learn if I have to.

Cheers

 

[Puddle Jumper 2.0]

Consider shopping that part number at a Napa Auto Parts near you. They can likely match a connector and pins in their Belkin line of auto electrical. I got some great OEM style plugs for some GM applications that I could not source at a reasonable price. Napa had it overnite, good pricing too. You would need the connector and pins. Maybe a bit of wire and solder those connections. Crimps are not likely to hold up as well.

Definitely solder them!!! Anything above tank should be soldered if having to splice in wire connectors. Piece of mind that they are solid in case code still exists. Also tackle everything else up there while the tank is down!!! Easy access to some otherwise inaccessible stuff like vac lines and a purge canister (can get to it without dropping the tank but with the tank out it’s a hundred times more accessible). Take a good look at that filler neck assembly too!!

 

[fishdad]

Definitely solder them!!! Anything above tank should be soldered if having to splice in wire connectors. Piece of mind that they are solid in case code still exists. Also tackle everything else up there while the tank is down!!! Easy access to some otherwise inaccessible stuff like vac lines and a purge canister (can get to it without dropping the tank but with the tank out it’s a hundred times more accessible). Take a good look at that filler neck assembly too!!

I definitely should have tried soldering it while everything was down. I ended up taking it to a shop because it was kind of a pain to drop the tank in my driveway. After some back and forth, the shop repaired the wiring harness(replacement harness for the tank is no longer produced) and it fixed the problem! No CEL and a working gas gauge. Everything else looked good down there otherwise.

Cheers

 

[blackhawk]

Here under you can find the possible causes related to that code in your kj 06 3.7

 

[blackhawk]

Theory of operation:
The bcm had to send the pcm a girl volume signal over Can C. The signal the bcm seems over Can C is implausible.
Provide me with your email address to send the electrical diagram related to this dtc u1411.
I'd check if cables of that fuel pump connector had continuity up to the pertaining connector and pin on pcm.

 

[Puddle Jumper 2.0]

I definitely should have tried soldering it while everything was down. I ended up taking it to a shop because it was kind of a pain to drop the tank in my driveway. After some back and forth, the shop repaired the wiring harness(replacement harness for the tank is no longer produced) and it fixed the problem! No CEL and a working gas gauge. Everything else looked good down there otherwise.

Cheers

Sometimes you can find NOS (New Old Stock) parts on eBay and Amazon. The fuel tank/rear harness on my 07 Liberty is discontinued but I found this little gem on eBay still in the factory packaging!!! moparpartsgiant.com add your VIN get a number and happy hunting!!! I get it, dropping the tank in the driveway would be less than fun…..