Experience with "repair" wheel bearings?

[TomB985]

Good afternoon everyone,

After laying under the Jeep while someone drove above me at 65 MPH on jack stands, I've figured the right-rear wheel bearing is the cause of my vibration. I haven't pulled it apart yet, but I prefer not to replace the axleshaft if possible.

Does anyone have any experience with the "repair bearings" that include a bearing and seal in one unit? Thinking about trying the Timken TRP1559TV and reusing the existing shaft.

Thoughts?

 

[u2slow]

I ave not tried them, but there is an overview here. Seems the seal/bearing fits many applications:
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/10-bolt-bearing-upgrade/

If you have ABS w/axle speed sensors, they could possibly get in the way of that bearing style. Rockauto has shafts available.

 

[TomB985]

If you have ABS w/axle speed sensors, they could possibly get in the way of that bearing style. Rockauto has shafts available.

Yep, I am a huge fan of Rockauto. Problem is that I'm not sure how much longer I'll have this; my circumstances have changed since buying the KJ in early September. I'll be driving a lot more miles, and probably look to unload it for something more efficient...possibly soon.

So I'm trying to fix the issues at a reasonable cost, and a $25 repair bearing beats $130 for a new shaft, bearing, and seal.

The ABS sensor should be above the pumpkin, so I don't think these would interfere.

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[kejobe]

Why would the shaft need replaced? Is it damaged at all? If not, just reuse the shaft.

 

[u2slow]

I'd fix it right even if it costs a bit more. If I bought into something newer, smaller, and stupider to work on, I'd lose the economy of DIY repairs. :Insane:

I only have non-ABS models... with the diff-mounted speedo sensor... so not sure what year or ABS type used axle speed sensors. Maybe 2006+? Just something to consider if yours has them.

 

[u2slow]

Why would the shaft need replaced? Is it damaged at all? If not, just reuse the shaft.

The axle shaft's surface is like a bearing race, and wears just the same. This one is too far gone...

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[tommudd]

Do you really need a new axle ?
Or what makes you think you have to replace it ?
Should be able to remove old axle, replace bearing/ seal and reinstall everything

 

[TomB985]

Do you really need a new axle ?
Or what makes you think you have to replace it ?
Should be able to remove old axle, replace bearing/ seal and reinstall everything

I’ll take a look tomorrow morning. My only previous experience with this kind of thing was on the Ford 8.8. I’ve never seen or heard of anybody that had a bearing fail without galling the shaft, so that was my assumption.

 

[TomB985]

Apparently, I suck at diagnosing noises.

Spent much of my day pulling the axle part replacing both bearings. They looked good, but I figured it was worth it to rule them out, which is about all I got done. I had a lucky break when the pinion pin retaining bolt broke on the way out...the threads were far enough out I could work the rest out with a screwdriver.

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The good news is everything is back together without leaks or further issues, but $60 in parts and oil later I am no closer to finding this stupid problem. It doesn’t make sense to me how it is completely normal until 50 mph, I’m running out of things to check out.

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[HoosierJeeper]

Have you checked the brakes? Caliper hanging up? E brake stuff sticking or falling apart?

I had the driver's rear caliper get sticky on mine and it'd vibrate a bit in the 45-50 range. Noticed extra brake dust on the wheel too. Just thought something to check if you think it's coming from the rear. Replaced it and it went away. Felt like driving over rumble strips. Hitting the brakes would make it go away.

 

[u2slow]

Switch your rear tires left to right - see if the vibration switches to the other side.

Also check the rear driveshaft... ujoint, slip-joint, tcase output, check pinion for play.

 

[TomB985]

Thanks, guys.

Have you checked the brakes? Caliper hanging up? E brake stuff sticking or falling apart?

I had the driver's rear caliper get sticky on mine and it'd vibrate a bit in the 45-50 range. Noticed extra brake dust on the wheel too. Just thought something to check if you think it's coming from the rear. Replaced it and it went away. Felt like driving over rumble strips. Hitting the brakes would make it go away.

A friend suggested that recently, so I tried applying the break at 65 when it was vibrating, and no change. All four corners have been apart within the last month, and all of the pistons retract just fine. The e-brakes are all new, wish I would have waited to do that job until I realized I was pulling the axle apart. Would have been a lot easier without those shafts in there.

Switch your rear tires left to right - see if the vibration switches to the other side.

Also check the rear driveshaft... ujoint, slip-joint, tcase output, check pinion for play.

I can’t feel a difference left to right with the vibration, and it doesn’t feel like any tire vibration I’ve ever had. The tires are worn, but have worn quite evenly. Might be something to check into, though. I’m seriously considering dumping this thing and grabbing a cheaper commuter car for the winter, if I choose not to it will be getting a set of tires. U-joints were replaced last week, no play or abnormal feel in front or rear pinion. Virtually no play at T-case slip joint, and front driveshaft is new. I even swapped the shaft out under warranty because I thought that was the cause.

Part of my frustration is I feel like this thing was a stupid financial move. My other car is a ’17 Pacifica, but at 25,000 miles per year it is cheaper to pile miles on an older car when I’m just running around by myself. I had an 07 Kia that was rock solid, and I sold to buy the Liberty. I wanted four-wheel-drive for the winter, and look how that’s turned out for me…

At this point I’m looking at what I’ve invested into it against what I could get out of it, and I may be better off cutting my losses and selling if it’s gonna keep nickle and diming me. Working on cars has been a small hobby of mine for the last fifteen years, but parts aren’t exactly free.

 

[u2slow]

I’m seriously considering dumping this thing and grabbing a cheaper commuter car for the winter, if I choose not to it will be getting a set of tires. U-joints were replaced last week, no play or abnormal feel in front or rear pinion. Virtually no play at T-case slip joint, and front driveshaft is new. I even swapped the shaft out under warranty because I thought that was the cause.

It doesn't sound like the vibration is stopping you from driving it. It's more of a nuisance? Why get rid of something that otherwise works? Sounds like you've proved a whole lot of the Jeep is in good repair - it's only nickel & diming you when you make an incorrect diagnosis. Switch vehicles and you start back over at zero with new problems.

Tire belts can separate, and do funny things once the speed (centrifugal force) is just right.

Failing that, take out the rear driveshaft and drive it in 4Hi for a test. Maybe the suspension has sagged and bushings are tired to the point the ujoints aren't operating at ideal angles anymore.

 

[TomB985]

It doesn't sound like the vibration is stopping you from driving it. It's more of a nuisance? Why get rid of something that otherwise works? Sounds like you've proved a whole lot of the Jeep is in good repair - it's only nickel & diming you when you make an incorrect diagnosis. Switch vehicles and you start back over at zero with new problems.

That's a good point.

Failing that, take out the rear driveshaft and drive it in 4Hi for a test. Maybe the suspension has sagged and bushings are tired to the point the ujoints aren't operating at ideal angles anymore.

I was getting conflicting information about that. Does this vintage NP242 have a rear oil seal that requires the driveshaft to be inserted?

I know there are some year XJs with the 242 that will lose all their fluid in short order without the rear shaft.

 

[u2slow]

The KJ 231J and 242J output is 'dry'. Just grease on the splines under the accordian boot.

 

[TomB985]

The KJ 231J and 242J output is 'dry'. Just grease on the splines under the accordian boot.

Awesome. I'll be going for a FWD drive this evening. :icon_biggrin:

 

[TomB985]

That was interesting. It drives surprisingly normal in FWD.

The drive was worth the effort, it explains why I’ve been so confused. I am getting a separate noise under throttle above 70 mph from the front driveline, but it’s not that bad and varies with throttle. Off the throttle it's completely silent, which is very different from the constant noise I've been getting above 50.

The constant thrumming vibration above 50 was completely gone. With the rear shaft in, the noise doesn’t vary with throttle application. I’m thinking perhaps an out-of-spec driveshaft. When coasting the carrier bearings aren’t going to care if the driveshaft is hooked up or not.