CV axle change

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nmadd118

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I'm going to replace the CV as well.

Is NMD 958355 the correct Napa part number for the passenger side?

I'm a Saturday mechanic at best so I'm worried about getting it right I did my lift with some difficulty but got it done. How foolproof is the cv axle / intermediate shaft replacement?
 

HoosierJeeper

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Not sure about the PN but if that's what it shows, that would be right for the reman.
Get the intermediate shaft too, I think Amazon has it.

It's not much work really. The biggest thing I worry about is making sure you pull the intermediate shaft out straight so you don't nick the seal. Pre oil the new intermediate shaft before putting it in.

Otherwise, there's not too much to go wrong.
 

nmadd118

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Somebody posted earlier on this thread a Napa PN for the CV driveshaft (brings up a different part on Napa's website)??

Few questions:
Do I need an alignment after? I just had one done after replacing the UCAs.
Will this drain my axle fluid?

Going to order the intermediate shaft tonight which might take longer to ship. Napa has the remand cv axle but I just want to make sure it's the right PN since it doesn't match what was posted here earlier.
 

tommudd

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Somebody posted earlier on this thread a Napa PN for the CV driveshaft (brings up a different part on Napa's website)??

Few questions:
Do I need an alignment after? I just had one done after replacing the UCAs.
NO
Will this drain my axle fluid?
NO

Going to order the intermediate shaft tonight which might take longer to ship. Napa has the remand cv axle but I just want to make sure it's the right PN since it doesn't match what was posted here earlier.

should be
CV Driveshaft - Right Front - Remfd
PART # :
NMD 958355
PRODUCT LINE :
NAPA MaxDrive
 

HoosierJeeper

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Just make sure you measure out what your clevis spacing is...or at least some other frame of reference so you don't give your self an accidental clevis lift or lowering!
 

nmadd118

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Of course UPS loses my package with the intermediate shaft hasn't been scanned for 36 hours and the car is virtually not driveable at this point......ugh
 

smittyfromPA

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Of course UPS loses my package with the intermediate shaft hasn't been scanned for 36 hours and the car is virtually not driveable at this point......ugh

Sorry to hear that. I'm still awaiting mine too, ordered last week.
 

nmadd118

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My mechanic thinks it's the front driveshaft not the cv axle. There's a boot that's partially torn. What is the best option to get the parts? He doesn't think it's that bad. When the car hasn't been driven for a while it seems to be less severe, then drive it for a few hundred miles and you can't go over 50 mph. It also is more pronounced when you let off the gas.

He quoted me $650 for factory original replacement driveshaft. What should I do?

I've spent $400 on the JBA control arms too because we thought it was bad ball joints (which were shot but not causing the main vibration) and I've ordered now the intermediate shaft but he doesn't think that's it.

....@.....@....
 

tommudd

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My mechanic thinks it's the front driveshaft not the cv axle. There's a boot that's partially torn. What is the best option to get the parts? He doesn't think it's that bad. When the car hasn't been driven for a while it seems to be less severe, then drive it for a few hundred miles and you can't go over 50 mph. It also is more pronounced when you let off the gas.

He quoted me $650 for factory original replacement driveshaft. What should I do?

I've spent $400 on the JBA control arms too because we thought it was bad ball joints (which were shot but not causing the main vibration) and I've ordered now the intermediate shaft but he doesn't think that's it.

....@.....@....

You can rebuild the front driveshaft for 50-60 bucks , very simple to do
Driveshaft & CV Joint Components
 

nmadd118

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Quick update. Finally was able to work on the KJ.

Was able to remove the front driveshaft and the rear CV was definitely bad. Drove without the driveshaft on and still had the vibration/wobble at around 55mph. Then took apart the passenger side where the inner CV axle joint seemed to have more play, but the splines on both the intermediate shaft and the CV axle were intact and appeared fine. I also compared the old CV axle to the reman CV axle from NAPA and the joints were comparable in terms of play and all boots are intact so I concluded these parts were fine and reinstalled.

Replaced the rear CV on the front driveshaft and reinstalled. Definitely much better than before but still have vibration/wobble at around 55mph although less.

What else could it be?

I did notice my driver side rotor seems warped as it's more sticky at one point in the rotation than the other. Starting to run out of ideas.
 

tommudd

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Quick update. Finally was able to work on the KJ.

Was able to remove the front driveshaft and the rear CV was definitely bad. Drove without the driveshaft on and still had the vibration/wobble at around 55mph. Then took apart the passenger side where the inner CV axle joint seemed to have more play, but the splines on both the intermediate shaft and the CV axle were intact and appeared fine. I also compared the old CV axle to the reman CV axle from NAPA and the joints were comparable in terms of play and all boots are intact so I concluded these parts were fine and reinstalled.

Replaced the rear CV on the front driveshaft and reinstalled. Definitely much better than before but still have vibration/wobble at around 55mph although less.

What else could it be?

I did notice my driver side rotor seems warped as it's more sticky at one point in the rotation than the other. Starting to run out of ideas.

Running out of ideas ? There is something else to replace it seems
Also the the splines on the CV and Intermediate shaft can be worn and still look fairly good
 

HoosierJeeper

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Does it sound and feel like out of balance tires? That's how my intermediate shaft was. Don't remember how it looked, don't think it was terrible.
 

Zippy the jeep

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And will not last as those 2 parts are heat treated and he killed the heat treating(which gives strength) making both pieces very weak.

Forget about returning for a core after welding also and you have to buy a new intermediate shaft to boot anyways.
Do you know where i can buy “new” axel’s for my 2006 liberty that are made in america and not cheap china ****.. i just replaced mine with mopar ones 8 months ago and they are made in USA got a sticker right on them, but the boot failed, so i went back to mopar and they said they have “Zero” of them here in the US. But they are gonna pay for a replacement because under warranty and they dont have one . So i am looking for made in america ones . Do you know of a company who sells them?
 
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