Couple quick questions -- replacing driver's front CV axle

[TypeRx]

Hi guys -- a couple years ago I noticed a small tear on the innner CV joint boot on my driver's front axle. I patched it up with black RTV and it has been leak free through 2 winters (not bad). In any case, it has reopened and although not much grease has splatted out, I realize it is time to stop being cheap and replace the damn thing. Will probably try and tackle this weekend.

I've referred to this thread which has been great. http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-change-front-cv-axle-44548/ However, I still have a few questions (completely newbie-ish).

1. To replace the driver's side, I need a LEFT front CV driveshaft, right? Basically, this one? NAPA AUTO PARTS

2. To pry the CV axle out of the transmission, any recommendation on what tool to use / not use? I've read somewhere NOT to use a pickle fork. I have a 24" pry bar and crow bar...will one of those work? Or is there a better tool to ensure I don't screw things up here?

3. Will any transmission or other fluid leak out when I pop the driveshaft out?

4. I am going to liberally spray PB Blaster on all the bolts I will need to remove this weekend over the course of the next day or so. For the hub bolt, is it much easier to loosen with the wheels on the ground? If so, I can pop the hub cap off of the factory alloy wheels and access that way if it is easier on the ground than in the air.

5. Do you guys recommend dissasembling the caliper/rotor/caliper bracket rather than doing it in the way it was done in the DIY thread?

Thanks so much guys. Your help on prior questions of mine has been invaluable!

 

[tommudd]

Hi guys -- a couple years ago I noticed a small tear on the innner CV joint boot on my driver's front axle. I patched it up with black RTV and it has been leak free through 2 winters (not bad). In any case, it has reopened and although not much grease has splatted out, I realize it is time to stop being cheap and replace the damn thing. Will probably try and tackle this weekend.

I've referred to this thread which has been great. http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-change-front-cv-axle-44548/ However, I still have a few questions (completely newbie-ish).

1. To replace the driver's side, I need a LEFT front CV driveshaft, right? Basically, this one? NAPA AUTO PARTS
YES THAT SHOULD BE THE ONE, MAKE SURE BETWEEN GASSER OR crd WHICHEVER YOU HAVE

2. To pry the CV axle out of the transmission, any recommendation on what tool to use / not use? I've read somewhere NOT to use a pickle fork. I have a 24" pry bar and crow bar...will one of those work? Or is there a better tool to ensure I don't screw things up here?
YOU DO NOT NEED A PICKLE FORK OR PRYBAR TO PULL IT OUT OR SHOULDN'T jUST POP IT OUT

3. Will any transmission or other fluid leak out when I pop the driveshaft out?

THE CV DOES NOT GO INTO THE TRANSMISSION, IT GOES INTO THE FRONT DIFFERENTIAL SMALL AMOUNT OF FLUID MAYBE SEEN BUT NOT ENOUGH TO WORRY ABOUT

4. I am going to liberally spray PB Blaster on all the bolts I will need to remove this weekend over the course of the next day or so. For the hub bolt, is it much easier to loosen with the wheels on the ground? If so, I can pop the hub cap off of the factory alloy wheels and access that way if it is easier on the ground than in the air.
HAVE EITHER SOMEONE HOLD THE BRAKE OR DEPENDING ON TYPE OF WHEEL REMOVE CENTER "HUB CAP" WITH WHEEL ON THE GROUND. I HAVE ANOTHER TRICK WHICH SOME DON'T LIKE BUT ITS WORKED FOR YEARS

5. Do you guys recommend dissasembling the caliper/rotor/caliper bracket rather than doing it in the way it was done in the DIY thread?
NOT SURE HOW IT WAS DONE IN WHATEVER THREAD YOU SAW. BUT I ALWAYS DISASSEMBLE TAKING BRAKE PADS OFF/ THEN BRACKET ETC

Thanks so much guys. Your help on prior questions of mine has been invaluable!

Hope this helps some , just remember to be careful

 

[TypeRx]

Thanks for the tips / feedback. Just out of curiosity, when you say "be careful", is there something specifically I need to watch out for?

Also, anything special needed to pop the ball joint out of the hub?

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Use a pickle fork plus a cheater pipe and a sledge hammer.

 

[AVR2]

Use a pickle fork plus a cheater pipe and a sledge hammer.

With a picklefork, you're running a risk of damaging the joint boot. I'd recommend using a proper balljoint separator. I have the OTC front end set, and I use the larger Pitman arm puller to pop all the front balljoints on my KJ. Only takes a few cranks on the screw and it's done:

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I always leave the nut loosely threaded on the balljoint stud, as insurance against the components flying violently apart when the joint pops.

 

[TypeRx]

Do you guys recommend replacement of any of the bolts while in there?

Also, I've read online that people torque the hub nut to 175 lb-ft of torque but I looked in the FSM and it recommended 100 lb-ft. You guys follow the FSM on this, right?

 

[AVR2]

I went with the FSM. I've never heard of torquing the KJ hub nut to 175, I think that's the figure for the ZJ. Maybe people doing it on the KJ have done the SFA swap?

 

[TypeRx]

You are right -- I read the 175 ft-lbs on a different jeep site (not KJ-specific) but assumed it was the same across the family. The warnings I saw (if you don't torque to 175 ft-lbs expect failure soon...) made me ask.

 

[tommudd]

Remember what you read on a lot of the forums are either for other models of Jeeps or written by complete idiots.
Sorry but I read some of the information that is out there and its ridiculous in the way some tell you how to do things

Pickle forks have sold more ball joints etc than any one other tool there is. Should be outlawed unless you take a course on proper use and pass a test that you do in fact have some common sense.

I gave mine away 35 years ago and have never missed it, last I saw it was being used as a tent stake