Compressed springs?

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robert.janowski

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I've read alot about how people don't like the daystar lift because it compresses the front springs. But it doesn't. The top spacer adds to the length of the shock tube.
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To me the spring looks to be the same length. So where is the so called compressed spring?

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sota

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your methodology is flawed. you need to measure resting spring length with the units installed in the vehicle. also you didn't indicate you actually measured spring length at all. eyeballing it doesn't do it.
 

M38 Bob

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Even when I click your image it's so small I can't make out much detail, but looks compressed to me.

Bob
 

tommudd

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I've read alot about how people don't like the daystar lift because it compresses the front springs. But it doesn't. The top spacer adds to the length of the shock tube.
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To me the spring looks to be the same length. So where is the so called compressed spring?

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Tell you what,
heres a good way to actually see that it does in fact compress ( preload ) the spring
Get a set of spring compressors from FLATOzone
now compress a stock spring and put it all together
next compress a stock spring and install WITH a spacer style lift ( you choose any spacer style will do)
Now report back which is harder to compress
You'll soon see that any spacer lift "preloads" the springs
This is why they are bad, contribute to a terrible ride and wear the springs out sooner
 
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dude1116

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I could only imagine how hard that shock tower would be to install... O_O

Basically that coil needs to be compressed to the size of the stock tower in order to install it.
 
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robert.janowski

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The spring is know more compressed on the spacer lift then the stock one. The top shock extension is the same length as the rubber insert at the bottom, 2.5 inches. The spring is still the same length on both shocks. So how can it be compressed more then the stock one?

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dude1116

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The spring is know more compressed on the spacer lift then the stock one. The top shock extension is the same length as the rubber insert at the bottom, 2.5 inches. The spring is still the same length on both shocks. So how can it be compressed more then the stock one?

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Try to install it and you'll see! Getting the clevis in it's place will be a real ***** and a half. Just kinda the way the suspension is designed.
 

tommudd

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The spring is know more compressed on the spacer lift then the stock one. The top shock extension is the same length as the rubber insert at the bottom, 2.5 inches. The spring is still the same length on both shocks. So how can it be compressed more then the stock one?

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:icon_lol:You're not taking in the fact of how a coilover shock setup is and how it works
The extension is not the same to begin with
Have junk a** Daystar, RRO OTTs etc down in the garage, never used them except to show folks what not to use and why not
But like mentioned it preloads the spring right from the get go
Not sure how that is hard to understand
 

tommudd

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Done, better things to do
use what you want
Thats how I got a ARB for 1/5 the price of a new one in 2005
Spacer lift, blown shocks, worn out ball joints
Owner stated there was NO WAY to lift a KJ and not make it wear parts
over 198,000 lifted miles on mine and none of those issues

Have fun with your ride
 

LibertyTC

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This thread has been most entertaining! :happy175:
The fact is that a stock coil will be bagged & sagged and probably compress & then rebound like a wet noodle. :icon_lol:
There is a reason why new OME coils can support the weight and offer a true suspension lift, & smooth ride :gr_grin:
 

Mike205

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But how does a daystar lift where out ball joints any faster than any other lift? Don't all lifts change the angle of the control arms and add stress to the ball joints? Is it because of the extra droop?

I mean it depends how hard you wheel. I have had my daystar on for almost a year with no issues. I run 245/75/16s and they still clear my pinch welds. I run some mild trails from time to time but that's about it.

Now, having said that, I would not attempt serious wheeling with this lift and fully plan on installing a better lift in the future but for now it's fine.

I have noticed that the design of the rear spacer allows the stock bump stop to go right into it effectively allowing the spring to stack so I will be adding my own bump stops. I will also be adding the TeraFlex front bump stops.

And yes, getting the clevis back in was a pain in the butt but nothing a couple of big screw drivers in the lower control arm slots couldn't rectify.

The kit was $130. Now if a year from now my springs start to droop than I have a good reason to tell the wife why I need a better lift kit; and JBA upper arms to boot. Maybe that was my plan all along!

Jus sayin, it is what it is. Why not just tell daystar liftees to take it easy and not get to crazy offroading. In my case, I know better than to think daystar=trail rig but it serves a purpose and it will get me by for now.
 

4x4kayak2112

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But how does a daystar lift where out ball joints any faster than any other lift? Don't all lifts change the angle of the control arms and add stress to the ball joints? Is it because of the extra droop?

I mean it depends how hard you wheel. I have had my daystar on for almost a year with no issues. I run 245/75/16s and they still clear my pinch welds. I run some mild trails from time to time but that's about it.

Now, having said that, I would not attempt serious wheeling with this lift and fully plan on installing a better lift in the future but for now it's fine.

I have noticed that the design of the rear spacer allows the stock bump stop to go right into it effectively allowing the spring to stack so I will be adding my own bump stops. I will also be adding the TeraFlex front bump stops.

And yes, getting the clevis back in was a pain in the butt but nothing a couple of big screw drivers in the lower control arm slots couldn't rectify.

The kit was $130. Now if a year from now my springs start to droop than I have a good reason to tell the wife why I need a better lift kit; and JBA upper arms to boot. Maybe that was my plan all along!

Jus sayin, it is what it is. Why not just tell daystar liftees to take it easy and not get to crazy offroading. In my case, I know better than to think daystar=trail rig but it serves a purpose and it will get me by for now.
Really??
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tommudd

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But how does a daystar lift where out ball joints any faster than any other lift? Don't all lifts change the angle of the control arms and add stress to the ball joints? Is it because of the extra droop?

I mean it depends how hard you wheel. I have had my daystar on for almost a year with no issues. I run 245/75/16s and they still clear my pinch welds. I run some mild trails from time to time but that's about it.

Now, having said that, I would not attempt serious wheeling with this lift and fully plan on installing a better lift in the future but for now it's fine.

I have noticed that the design of the rear spacer allows the stock bump stop to go right into it effectively allowing the spring to stack so I will be adding my own bump stops. I will also be adding the TeraFlex front bump stops.

And yes, getting the clevis back in was a pain in the butt but nothing a couple of big screw drivers in the lower control arm slots couldn't rectify.

The kit was $130. Now if a year from now my springs start to droop than I have a good reason to tell the wife why I need a better lift kit; and JBA upper arms to boot. Maybe that was my plan all along!

Jus sayin, it is what it is. Why not just tell daystar liftees to take it easy and not get to crazy offroading. In my case, I know better than to think daystar=trail rig but it serves a purpose and it will get me by for now.

Has everything and nothing to do with spacers lifts off roading
They ride like crap, period when compared to a full spring lift done right.
They preload the spring so you are not getting full use of the range of motion of the spring resulting in the worse ride .
I won't install any spacer style lifts due to that fact, a stock KJ rides bad enough to begin with. I don't want someone leaving my place with a ride thats even worse
Plus the dead horse above is the truth, been beat to death over the past 10-12 years , talked about, proven etc
 

tommudd

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Another thing on spacers
Common knowledge that the KJs springs ( and shocks) are done/ worn out by 50,000 miles and already sagging. So you are installing a spacer lift on a weak spring that has now sagged at least 1/2 to one inch ( many times more)
You preload the spring ( which is already weak), so that helps speed up the sag. Also you need longer rear shocks, while you have it apart you should of replaced at least the front shocks since they would be bad as well.
So with the price of the spacer lift, new shocks you are within 160-200 of a full lift really
 

mikejeepstarternoob

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Get ironman all the way round its not that expensive.

I've seen spacer lift done on a pick up truck and he said it rides funny and makes noise. Good thing its his work truck and only uses it for auto parts delivery.
 

4x4kayak2112

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Get ironman all the way round its not that expensive.

I've seen spacer lift done on a pick up truck and he said it rides funny and makes noise. Good thing its his work truck and only uses it for auto parts delivery.
Actually go with OME......save some $$$$.

I have ran OME/bilstein. TBH, I love the valving in the Bilsteins.

Check this out......lol
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