clutch/trans issues

[trichard310]

I replaced my clutch recently and now it's worse than the old one. I have grinding/growling noises when clutch is dis-engaged(first thing I noticed). Bad chatter between shifts, mostly in first, reverse, and during downshifts. And a general sloppy feeling(drivetrain feels loose). I also get a clanking noise when at low rpm when engaging and dis-engaging the clutch while moving. Clutch was installed be Cert. mechanic and flywheel was machined.:disgust:

The clutch guy said it is the flywheel, I think its the clutch?:disgust:

Anyone ever hear of changing the dual mass flywheel to a solid mass flywheel?:shrug:


Thanks

 

[osufans]

i thought rattling was a sign of a throw-out bearing....but don't hold me to that one.

i'm pretty sure i read about a lot of guys with SVT Focus's swapping the factory dual-mass to a solid mass flywheel, but don't remember the pros and cons to doing so.

not that they're entirely related, but there's a good site with that info here: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/

i'm not familiar with the Liberty manual transmission, so i'm not sure what mods owners are doing to them.

 

[tjkj2002]

You need a new flywheel and clutch.The dual mass flywheel can not be machined as it has a special shape,only use 180 grit sand paper to "clean" the surface.The regular clutch(3.7) can not be machined also.You either "clean" the surface with 180 grit sandpaper or get a new flywheel.

Any tech worth a damn would know this about Chrysler clutches.

 

[trichard310]

You need a new flywheel and clutch.The dual mass flywheel can not be machined as it has a special shape,only use 180 grit sand paper to "clean" the surface.The regular clutch(3.7) can not be machined also.You either "clean" the surface with 180 grit sandpaper or get a new flywheel.

Any tech worth a damn would know this about Chrysler clutches.

Thanks alot TJKJ. I will print this out and take it the the mechanic. So, Im going to need another new clutch even though this one has only been installed for about 2 months?

 

[tjkj2002]

Thanks alot TJKJ. I will print this out and take it the the mechanic. So, Im going to need another new clutch even though this one has only been installed for about 2 months?

I would print this out istead,right from the FSM...............

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - FLYWHEEL
​

​

Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the
indicator on a stud installed in place of one of the flywheel
bolts.
Common causes of runout are:​

†

heat warpage

​

​

† ​

​

improper machining

​

​

† ​

​

incorrect bolt tightening

​

​

† ​

​

improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder

​

​

† ​

​

foreign material on crankshaft flange

Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel
clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor flywheel
scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock
removal is ​

​

not recommended. Replace the flywheel

if scoring is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003
in.). Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel
cracking or warpage after installation; it can also
weaken the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch​

release.​

​

I would push for a new clutch as it could have been damaged.The shop that did the work should be 100% liable for the expense of a new flywheel and clutch as they did not look it up right to know that you can not machine the flywheel in a KJ.
​

 

[trichard310]

YOU ARE THE MAN!:killit:

 

[trichard310]

update, took the kj back to the mechanic. He told me the flywheel in my liberty in not dual mass. Is it possible that it has been changed to a solid mass flywheel? It only has 80000 miles, I doubt it is on its third clutch. Anyways, if anyone has a link they could share about this issue would be very appricative. I took the print out that TjKj2002 gave me, and it obviously want convincing enough.

 

[rockymountain]

update, took the kj back to the mechanic. He told me the flywheel in my liberty in not dual mass. Is it possible that it has been changed to a solid mass flywheel? It only has 80000 miles, I doubt it is on its third clutch. Anyways, if anyone has a link they could share about this issue would be very appricative. I took the print out that TjKj2002 gave me, and it obviously want convincing enough.

Ok, you got a new clutch. It is worse than it was before you took it to him. I don't know what the deal is with this guy, but sounds like a shyster to me. Would getting it diagnosed at the dealer be worth it to tell this guy that something is wrong?

Also, which flywheel does it have? Does it matter? Can one be machined while the other can't? Sorry, if I missed that. Can the Liberty have a dual-mass flywheel or a solid flywheel? I think some of these questions need answered. Sounds like he told you it had a solid mass flywheel to get you off his back.

 

[tjkj2002]

update, took the kj back to the mechanic. He told me the flywheel in my liberty in not dual mass. Is it possible that it has been changed to a solid mass flywheel? It only has 80000 miles, I doubt it is on its third clutch. Anyways, if anyone has a link they could share about this issue would be very appricative. I took the print out that TjKj2002 gave me, and it obviously want convincing enough.

The regular flywheel can not be machined either,the surface is the same for both the normal and dual mass flywheel.

 

[trichard310]

The regular flywheel can not be machined either,the surface is the same for both the normal and dual mass flywheel.

Any more conformation would help. Please, if you know, write it here.

 

[tjkj2002]

Any more conformation would help. Please, if you know, write it here.

What I posted in post#5 is right from the FSM and applies to both the 3.7 and 2.4 flywheels.Go to any Jeep/Chrysler dealership and have them print out there poloicy for machining flywheels for your KJ.

 

[trichard310]

anyone know where to get a great deal on a new flywheel(3.7)?:disgust::disgust::disgust:

 

[osufans]

anyone know where to get a great deal on a new flywheel(3.7)?:disgust::disgust::disgust:

I'm thinking you need to go back to that mechanic and get them to do the job right, or pay for the new parts, and you go somewhere else.

 

[trichard310]

I'm thinking you need to go back to that mechanic and get them to do the job right, or pay for the new parts, and you go somewhere else.

The mechanic has agreed to do the labor but I have to provide the flywheel. He said that, yes, he messed up by machining the flywheel but that it would have needed replaced in the first place, I cant really prove him wrong so im stuck buying a $400 flywheel. Anyone know a better deal?

 

[osufans]

The mechanic has agreed to do the labor but I have to provide the flywheel. He said that, yes, he messed up by machining the flywheel but that it would have needed replaced in the first place, I cant really prove him wrong so im stuck bying a $400 flywheel. Anyone know a better deal?

OK, that makes sense. Without knowing fully all about the manual transmission and clutch, I can understand where he's coming from, and at least he's offering to do the work.

 

[trichard310]

Update:

Bought a new flywheel and had the shop install. Clutch feels good except I still get shuttering in reverse when I baby the clutch such as backing up hill or in tight spots. I noticed I have a rubbing noise coming for the rear of the kj when turning at slow speeds. From what I have read, this is my clutch packs in the rear differential. Could this also be the source of the shutter or do you thing it is the new clutch or new flywheel? What can I do about the clutch packs?

Also, I have alot of excess noise (cracking, popping, sqeeking) coming front the front after lifting more. I read somewhere that you sould not torque the UCA's or sway bar links until the weight of the car is on them. Can anyone confirm?

I dont think I need new ball joints because I have fairly new JBA UCA's. Thanks

 

[tjkj2002]

Update:

Bought a new flywheel and had the shop install. Clutch feels good except I still get shuttering in reverse when I baby the clutch such as backing up hill or in tight spots. I noticed I have a rubbing noise coming for the rear of the kj when turning at slow speeds. From what I have read, this is my clutch packs in the rear differential. Could this also be the source of the shutter or do you thing it is the new clutch or new flywheel? What can I do about the clutch packs?

Also, I have alot of excess noise (cracking, popping, sqeeking) coming front the front after lifting more. I read somewhere that you sould not torque the UCA's or sway bar links until the weight of the car is on them. Can anyone confirm?

I dont think I need new ball joints because I have fairly new JBA UCA's. Thanks

When was the last time you changed the diff oil? It needs to be changed every 12k-15k(front diff also if 4wd) and if you have the trash loc in the rear you need to add 4oz of friction modifier 1st before the gear oil.


Oh and yes you must tighen all suspension bolts/nuts with the full weight of the vehicle on them(not jacked up),check yoru swaybar end links as they are the biggest noise maker.

 

[trichard310]

When was the last time you changed the diff oil? It needs to be changed every 12k-15k(front diff also if 4wd) and if you have the trash loc in the rear you need to add 4oz of friction modifier 1st before the gear oil.


Oh and yes you must tighen all suspension bolts/nuts with the full weight of the vehicle on them(not jacked up),check yoru swaybar end links as they are the biggest noise maker.

New gear oil was the first thing I planned on doing. What weight do you recommend I use? What are the chances it will help with the rubbing noise? Could this be the source of the chatter?
Wanted to tell you thanks for all your help. You have saved me lots of cash and time since joining this forum.