Changing Plugs Not So Hard

[ups4]

I finally got around to changing the plugs on the Liberty, and I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was. The hardest part was removing the coolant reservoir to get better access to the passenger side inboard plug. Why in the world did they feel that the threaded studs for the reservoir need to be 3" long? . This would require you to use a deep socket, which I didn't have and didn't want to purchase. Ended up using the 10mm box wrench, which added 20 minutes to the process , but did make it easier to get the plug out...DO watch out for the oil filler tube and the ****** filler tube here. I see what Jeepjeester meant now in his tutorial on changing plugs. It would be so easy to break either of these off while trying to break loose the plug back there.

I used the Autolite Double Platinum at 27,800 miles. I was quite surprised to see how clean the NGK's were after almost 30k. But I'm glad I changed them anyway....she does seem more peppier. New air filter and oil change/tire rotation too. Good to go for a while.

Paul
________
Chrysler 300 specifications

 

[2003KJ]

I see what Jeepjeester meant now in his tutorial on changing plugs. It would be so easy to break either of these off while trying to break loose the plug back there.

Been there, done that!

 

[ups4]

Got a question staying with this post.

I've always heard that when gapping plugs, you should feel just a "little resistance" when sliding the gapping tool between the electrodes.
This has always seemed just too vague too me. What may seem like a little resistance to me might not seem the same to someone else. I'm not sure how else you could describe how to gap a plug, but I've just always wondered about this. I guess if it's close enough to .040 it's good?

Anybody else wonder if the gap was correct after gapping plugs?

Paul
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vaporizer shop

 

[Dave]

I always gap them to a "tight" measurement. (a tight .040 in this case).

My thinking is that the gap will wear with use and become wider. I don't know if this is right, but that is how I do it.

Dave

 

[Ken]

How difficult to change on a 2.4 liter 4 ****** ???
Does the throttle body have to come off I am about due to change mine.
What plugs do you all recommend.
Thanks
Ken

 

[ups4]

How difficult to change on a 2.4 liter 4 ****** ???
Does the throttle body have to come off I am about due to change mine.
What plugs do you all recommend.
Thanks
Ken

I'm not sure about the CRD's but you shouldn't have to take the actual throttle body off to get to the plugs.

I took the intake hose off of the throttle body along with the whole air cleaner box. I was able to clean a good portion of the throttle body itself and dumped all the dead bugs and sand and stuff that had accumulated in the air cleaner box.

Edit: I just realized you aren't talking about the deisel...LOL...I misread your post. But the answer is still the same, you shouldn't have to remove the throttle body to change the plugs.
I forgot about the 4 cylinder option for the Liberty #-o.

Paul
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Ontario Truck

 

[JeepJeepster]

He is talking about the I-4 gas engine that they used in the libertys for a short time ups4.

Also, a diesel doesnt have spark plugs.

I would imagine you wouldnt need to take the throttle body off to change a spark plug, but stranger things have happened.

 

[ups4]

He is talking about the I-4 gas engine that they used in the libertys for a short time ups4.

Yeah, I realized that after I hit "submit reply". I guess I should have just deleted the whole post, but I left it for the humor effect .

Sometimes I read faster than my brain can think.

Paul
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medical marijuana states

 

[JeepINgeek]

to backup ups4, diesels do have glow plugs that have to be replaced from time to time ( ive got ur back!)