Getting close to the end of my rehab project and thought it just needed 02 sensors with codes. At the pages direction I went ntk but found it surging at idle so went with the factory new iac and tps now it’s getting better but still surging at idle. I did some plugs as well to the Ngk as directed and a new coil on number 6 just to see if it helped. Again it was better and I ordered a full set of molar coils inbound now. My question is did I miss something on plug number 2-4-6 and is it a bigger repair than what I’m doing. Also since I’ve had it 6 years she’s always burned alittle coolant. When changing the oil I see no coolant so I’m guessing a small exhaust side head gasket leak.
Oil on plug. Chasing codes.
- Thread starter Jhkj04
- Start date
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duderz7
Full Access Member
I'm suspecting that leak is in the neighborhood of 2 and 4. I think you're on the right track with replacing those plugs. For a rough idle I've also tead that the asd relay can cause issues. It's in the box right in front of the battery. Pull it out and if it's got any burnt connections replace it.
Right, forgot I did swap that just for fun. Headed for a compression test just hope it’s not a valve or rings.
How bad is it surging rpm wise? Only when cold or when warmed up?
Could be an issue with the TPS, throttle position sensor, use Mopar.
Spark plugs, use copper cores, NGK ZFR6F-11G .040 inch gap.
Could be an issue with the TPS, throttle position sensor, use Mopar.
Spark plugs, use copper cores, NGK ZFR6F-11G .040 inch gap.
Surging at start idle from 1k to 1,300. It is on cold start but in the garage so not freezing temps.
I almost got the compression test done when the started went out. Spins no crank. So far on 5 of them the results are mostly normal at 120~130 number 5 however came in at 90 and is the odd colored plug that’s very white. My first concern was number 6 and the starter went out before getting a reading. Planning to swap starter and finish the test tonight as well the new mopar coils should be in the mail today.
TPS is a new mopar, with new mopar iac. With the coils tonight I’ll have changed all common sensors but the MAP sensor.
I almost got the compression test done when the started went out. Spins no crank. So far on 5 of them the results are mostly normal at 120~130 number 5 however came in at 90 and is the odd colored plug that’s very white. My first concern was number 6 and the starter went out before getting a reading. Planning to swap starter and finish the test tonight as well the new mopar coils should be in the mail today.
TPS is a new mopar, with new mopar iac. With the coils tonight I’ll have changed all common sensors but the MAP sensor.
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Swapped starters. It was the battery. Even jumping it from another car it would not kick over only spin the bendix. Gave up trying to compression test number 6. Charged the battery, put all the plugs back and the new mopar coils, put the injector fuse back in and it fired right up. Sadly it’s popping codes again. P0688 and p0133. 0688 is new the other I just did both down steam 02’s ntk.
P0688 ASD Relay Sense Circuit Low -Try swapping or new relay.
P0133= O2 Sensor 1/1 Slow Response.. Hmmm..
P0133= O2 Sensor 1/1 Slow Response.. Hmmm..
You installed a new ASD relay?
I would remove both battery cables, isolate them away from battery, & tape them both together for 30 minutes.
That will clear all the codes, and then safely reconnect them & see what codes come back.
I would remove both battery cables, isolate them away from battery, & tape them both together for 30 minutes.
That will clear all the codes, and then safely reconnect them & see what codes come back.
Note: For testing purposes, The ASD Relay can be swapped, as they should be identical part numbers.
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So I’m driving her the next two days to see what happens. I cleared the codes. Interesting I knew it had a head gasket leak on the exhaust side but small now with number 6 let’s say working better it’s blowing smoke in startup. It makes me think that greasy number 6 plug was not working at all and the leak is on number 6. With it down awhile and now a fresh plug and coil maybe it’s marking the head gasket worse. We’ll see what today of driving brings.
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Cleared codes and drove it today. Came home with code p0175. Rough idle and stumbles at a stop but seams smooth under normal throttle. I read it might be a vacuum leak so just sprayed brake cleaner all over the intake with no luck. Also found a shutter in the ****** or converter at low rpm in 2-3-4 gears 1,500-2,100 rpm. Luckily it’s not a daily and I plan to trail it. Now being back together I just have to keep fixing stuff.
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derekj
Full Access Member
Judging by your picture of the plugs at the top of this page I would say #6 is burning oil. Also 1 and 3 look like those cyl's are running rich by how black the plugs are. P0175 is rich bank 2 code which would explain the rough idle and then running ok once the engine gets some more air. I have seen small head gasket leaks take out o2 sensors and cause lots of driveability issues also. Do you have access to a scan tool that has data? Data from the pcm would probably really help in diagnosing what is going on with your truck. Also a good way to check for a head gasket leak is to get the truck hot then pull the plugs out of bank 2 and put a pressure tester on the cooling system. Let it sit for a bit then look down into the cyl's and see if you can see any coolant building up on top of the pistons. This is where a borescope would come in handy.
Did find a camera and number 6 is ugly inside. Rust spots, oil etc. the plug is oddly colored now after a couple days of use. Also it pulled no compression which is surprising it shows zero.
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Pulled the intake to redo that gasket. In order this is what’s in the head or Intake runner. 1-2-3-4-5-6 is it possible that number 6 is so dead it had zero compression?
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This can’t be good. So cylinder 6 with the dead compression has a missing rocker arm??? Farthest back valve. This can’t be good. Is it possible this is the source of the dead cylinder that the plug is covered in oil?
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Absolutely yes. The missing rocker arm allows one of the valves to stick open permanently, thus zero compression.
Luckily it is a pretty easy fix, cleaning the lash adjuster and reinstalling. It really is good news considering what else could have been wrong. Note, I have not done this to my Jeep, but saw it done by Eric O.
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Now that is a good question. If not all the fuel is being combusted in cylinder 6, I guess that could trick an O2 sensor into reporting that you’re running rich on that side of the engine (cylinders 2, 4, 6). The O2 sensor would not be able to distinguish between them.
