Ball jointed sway bar links
- Thread starter ikuo78
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Iron may be better because the tightening torque is higher.
I tightened it with 120N・m.
Since Tein is M12, a collar was not necessary.
Also, since a washer with a thickness of about 2 mm is placed on the ball joint side, it is possible to replace the washer with the collar.
I am not a Tein salesman.
QRSTSaved
God is Good
So the whitelines work! That said. Could you link the inserts that fit a 10mm stud? The 14mm outer diameter inserts I got were a mm too thick.
QRSTSaved
God is Good
I don't feel the need to align the centers.
Below is a steel.
In your photo the screws look short.
T-series tightening torque cannot be tolerated unless there are at least 5 threads.
https://www.amazon.com/Flanged-Bear...1b0vCENaC-5MvtE7krg-pcM9kCIU4VVeq5JiomQJQD5Of -_fVeaBS64dq_igAKxUqaZUienoADe1N2bth1Pa7UL0_p4DeLS_ankw_WSjgrvkIwTMPnTU3dfM-3sCvwny46vfzaNvI8EiV0JKeIBp5J7nvAuZOj6UZkaUr101QvvJxbA1-AEC3rwH8j7.uni2 c5gMISD6zfjxxiAA8hLXAZ-xovA5BCP_ZDsbNTc&dib_tag= se&keywords=Flange+Bearing+id+10+steel&qid=1718329023&sprefix=flange+bearing+id+10+steel%2Caps%2C319&sr=8-63
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
QRSTSaved
God is Good
They are the same length as your studs. And I torqued them down. Little more than 5 threads.
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
wheeee32
Full Access Member
Installed the Tein links on mine two days ago. Good so far. I torqued everything after driving around the block. Eliminated some of the noise I'm having on the front end. Still have another clunk on bumps and a creaking noise when turning while barely moving or backing up. I'll get that sorted soon.
I had some time now to try out the ball jointed sway bar links and i have to say what a difference! The Jeep handles A LOT better, especially when going over bumps. Suspension just feels a lot smoother. Plus it eliminated most of the front end noise. So if anyone is thinking of installing these i would highly recommend it.
Wanted to provide an update on the godspeed joints i had now for about a year and 10,000 miles. On the last off-road trip one of them snapped at the adjustment rod. Reason it snapped was because lower ball joint seized. The boot was not ripped. I emailed the company and they said the ball joint doesn’t have any grease in it, so to me that seems like a recipe for failure especially in harsh off road environments.
The lower side joints seem to be more susceptible to damage because they get submerged when crossing rivers or deep puddles.
They're also subject to rain and snow while driving.
I'm aware of how I used a pressure washer to put an end to a dying UCA ball joint.
My sway bar link(Tein) is still in good condition after 17 months and 14,000 km.
Replacement ball joints cost about $30 each, so I'm hoping they'll break one by one.
I'll have to check the grease.
They're also subject to rain and snow while driving.
I'm aware of how I used a pressure washer to put an end to a dying UCA ball joint.
My sway bar link(Tein) is still in good condition after 17 months and 14,000 km.
Replacement ball joints cost about $30 each, so I'm hoping they'll break one by one.
I'll have to check the grease.
Celticlady
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2025
- Messages
- 67
- Reaction score
- 33
I got these from Amazon USA. Today. 12-27-25
Spent the afternoon fitting them.
They are not for a liberty, but will work. One stud is much longer than the other. The stud is short. You will have to remove the installed washer to get a least one thread past the locknut. The other you will need to stack washers.
The stud is 13mm. The hole is probably worn. It's not 14mm. Its just a sloppy 13.
You will need to check travel at full extend ( full right & left) to make sure you are not hitting your abs signal wire. I had to relocate and secure the wire higher on the hub.
I ended adjusting the link turnbuckle to center to center of 6".
And I have always had inference between the sway bar and tie-rod end. Now it's worse with lift. Especially with the larger articulation cv joints. I had to grind a bit on the sway bar. Probably took off about 3/16" on each side. I did NOT grind on the tie-rod.
There is not a lot of clearance on these liberties.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Shankster
Full Access Member
You can also make your own from off the shelf parts. I've done it for race cars but never my Jeep. I think you could put together something from these:
Edit - I had looked up M14 stuff but pretty sure the Liberty (at least my 02) is M12 - revising my wishlist as follows:
Could reuse your existing nuts / bolts
End of Edit
There are a bunch of other configurations and materials you could go with too.
Wouldn't do well with road grime and salt etc but I've seen rubber boots made to go over the ball ends which might help durability.
Edit - I had looked up M14 stuff but pretty sure the Liberty (at least my 02) is M12 - revising my wishlist as follows:
Could reuse your existing nuts / bolts
End of Edit
There are a bunch of other configurations and materials you could go with too.
Wouldn't do well with road grime and salt etc but I've seen rubber boots made to go over the ball ends which might help durability.
Last edited:
