back brake pads--how much?

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smarkham

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Hey guys,

I liver in Maryland near Wash DC so things are usually a bit more expensive than in the Mid-West.

I took my KJ to get the tires rotated and for an oil change. The mechanic said the back brake pads were worn and I needed new ones. They want to charge me $300 for labor/parts. Does this sound right?

THANKS

Steve
 

JeepJeepster

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If you bent over, yea, sounds pretty normal. Thats probably the norm, actually, but its so easy to change those rear pads its not funny.

Takes no longer than 20min to change the rear pads. Take off rear tires, take out two (13mm I think, maybe 12mm)bolts, slide the caliper off, push the piston back in(either by brute force(thats me) or via a large C-clamp), take old pads off, put new pads in, bolt caliper back on taking time to properly torque bolts, put wheel on, torque lugs to 100ft lbs.

Make sure you pump the brakes before taking the ****** out of P.
 

tjkj2002

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If you bent over, yea, sounds pretty normal. Thats probably the norm, actually, but its so easy to change those rear pads its not funny.

Takes no longer than 20min to change the rear pads. Take off rear tires, take out two (13mm I think, maybe 12mm)bolts, slide the caliper off, push the piston back in(either by brute force(thats me) or via a large C-clamp), take old pads off, put new pads in, bolt caliper back on taking time to properly torque bolts, put wheel on, torque lugs to 100ft lbs.

Make sure you pump the brakes before taking the ****** out of P.
That is not the correct way of doing the rear brakes.You forgot to remove the rotors,install new rotors or cut old rotors,check parking brake and adjust parking brake(called "clean and adjust").If you just replace the pads without checking the thickness of the rotors it can really turn out bad(this is called a "pad slap",and most places will not do this).
 

JeepJeepster

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That is not the correct way of doing the rear brakes.You forgot to remove the rotors,install new rotors or cut old rotors,check parking brake and adjust parking brake(called "clean and adjust").If you just replace the pads without checking the thickness of the rotors it can really turn out bad(this is called a "pad slap",and most places will not do this).

True, I usually do not replace rotors unless they are showing signs of warping or look too rusted though. We all have our ways..

If he would of went to that shop, more than likely, they would never do anything like you do. Most shops only want your money and thats it. Notice I said 'most.' If you tell them to 'turn the rotors' they will, but it will cost you.

When I did get my rotors 'turned' I got a buddy to do it for next to nothing(I took them to him). Hes the only guy I trust and I enjoy giving him my business. I would much rather give local shops that I know and trust my money.

So really my way is not incorrect, its just not up to your standards.
 
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tjkj2002

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True, I usually do not replace rotors unless they are showing signs of warping or look too rusted though. We all have our ways..

If he would of went to that shop, more than likely, they would never do anything like you do. Most shops only want your money and thats it. Notice I said 'most.' If you tell them to 'turn the rotors' they will, but it will cost you.

When I did get my rotors 'turned' I got a buddy to do it for next to nothing(I took them to him). Hes the only guy I trust and I enjoy giving him my business. I would much rather give local shops that I know and trust my money.

So really my way is not incorrect, its just not up to your standards.
Actually doing a "pad slap",which is your way,will always be incorrect since the rotors have been worn a certain way from the old pads and now the new pads have to be worn to the rotors giving you reduced braking.You need to start out with a nice trued surface on the rotors when installing new pads.That's not my standards,that is the industry standards(OEM to independent shops alike).If your rotors are glazed that needs to come off also before new pads will grab the rotors correctly,and if you have hotspots you can not turn the rotors they must be replaced and again this is industry standards.

Now my standards are way higher then that and I would never,never,ever use a turned rotor on a vehicle I drive,sure you may only have to take 4-6 thousands of a inch off a rotor to make them true again but if you have ever cut a rotor before taking off 4-6 thousands of a inch leaves a pretty big pile of metal shavings which is less material to dissipate heat and leads to faster brake fading and reducing the life of your brake fluid.
 

Dave

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Hey guys,

I liver in Maryland near Wash DC so things are usually a bit more expensive than in the Mid-West.

I took my KJ to get the tires rotated and for an oil change. The mechanic said the back brake pads were worn and I needed new ones. They want to charge me $300 for labor/parts. Does this sound right?

THANKS

Steve

Ya know, that price is about what they get. It varies a little depending on hourly labor rate and rotor and pad cost depending on the vehicle. But that is for changing the rotors and pads and labor. They can usually turn the rotors only one time and still have them in "spec". By that I mean there will be enough material left on the rotor to properly dissipitate the heat generated in braking. So if that $300 includes changing the rotors (preferred method) or turning them there will be a little difference in price.

Around here they get $15 to turn a rotor so that's $30 for the pair. I don't know what a new rotor costs for the KJ but you could ask the mechanic for a price both ways.

As an aside for comparison, my Cutlass needs new front brakes so my options are to take the rotors off and bring them up the street and have them turned at $15 apiece ($30) and then put them on with new pads or just replace the rotors for about $60. Not that much difference in price. Plus, I would return the old rotors and not get a core charge. But it's way too cold right now for me to mess with it in the driveway so I asked them how much they wanted to do it with new rotors and they said around $250. It can sit in the driveway for now and I can drive the KJ. The KJ rotors are probably a little more money as they are bigger, so your $300 estimate is in line if they are changing them.

tjkj, you crack me up......"pad slapping".....haha .... I agree it is not a good thing to do. Your brakes are what stop you. Don't mess with them. Do them right......just my opinion.

Dave
 

offrovering

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Actually doing a "pad slap",which is your way,will always be incorrect since the rotors have been worn a certain way from the old pads and now the new pads have to be worn to the rotors giving you reduced braking.You need to start out with a nice trued surface on the rotors when installing new pads.That's not my standards,that is the industry standards(OEM to independent shops alike).If your rotors are glazed that needs to come off also before new pads will grab the rotors correctly,and if you have hotspots you can not turn the rotors they must be replaced and again this is industry standards.

Now my standards are way higher then that and I would never,never,ever use a turned rotor on a vehicle I drive,sure you may only have to take 4-6 thousands of a inch off a rotor to make them true again but if you have ever cut a rotor before taking off 4-6 thousands of a inch leaves a pretty big pile of metal shavings which is less material to dissipate heat and leads to faster brake fading and reducing the life of your brake fluid.

come on dude, there are times you can put new pads on without having to turn or replace the rotors. I am not saying everyone should, but if you can check for glazing or warped rotors and assure you don't have either, you can throw just pads on. glazing isnt even that bad, you can cut the glaze and be fine, assuming you dont have warping.
 

Robocody

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Honestly, This "You have to replace everything to make sure it's good" is ridiculous, and I bet a lot of people think that way. That's what makes Rotor MFGs rich. GM recommends on their large trucks that you don't have to replace or turn your rotors until A) they are warped or B) They have a groove cut into them that the edge of a penny fits into. It's not as exact a science as everyone would make it out to be. I've driven everything from small imports to large domestic trucks, and since none of my rotors were ever warped, and they were above thickness specs, I've never replaced them. I've also had no catastrophic failures in 100,000+ miles of driving. The only thing you risk from uneven or grooved rotors is decreased Pad life. After driving on new pads with old rotors, the pads wear and conform to the rotors, either giving the exact same surface area to stop, or more based on the amount of wear. Heat dissipation doesn't matter in this case, especially since the KJ rotors are already so large. That only matters when you are dealing with ultra precision machines like formula cars.

I mean, Someone throwing larger tires on their Jeep does more to hurt braking ability than a slightly worn rotor, and for the same reason you lose torque unless you do a gear swap when adding larger tires. It also causes more heat because of a large percentage increase in friction.
 

wingnuts

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I just ordered new rotors and pads for the rear of my 07 KJ from advanced auto for just under $140 before taxes
 

LibertyOrDeath

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Hey guys,

I liver in Maryland near Wash DC so things are usually a bit more expensive than in the Mid-West.

I took my KJ to get the tires rotated and for an oil change. The mechanic said the back brake pads were worn and I needed new ones. They want to charge me $300 for labor/parts. Does this sound right?

THANKS

Steve

My new rear brake, pads, rotors, re-manned calipers and labor was only $246.00 What are you getting for $300.
 

J-Thompson

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sounds like they are taking him behind the wood shed
my wife just got all new pads ,front and rear and all rotors turned
total cost was like $250

I dont know for sure if they turned them or not
but the Jeep stops just fine and heck if we get another 65K out of these it will be time for a new ride not new brakes
 

Ry' N Jen

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Not to long ago (5000 Km ago), we had our KJ in for a complete brake job front and rear at a Chrysler dealer and they machined both the front and rear rotors. I asked the service manager why they (The dealer service department) didn't just replace all four rotors with new ones? His reply was why? The ones that are on your Jeep have never been serviced and are/were suitable for turning/machining. That and "New ones would only add to the cost of the brake service.
I mentioned that this topic of new versus machined rotors comes up on " A KJ Forum" and his reply was simple. As far as being better or safer was simply incorrect and that replacing with new parts is not required. "No need to replace with new rotors unless they are beyond their service life" and that even him who has been in the vehicle service industry over 50 years doesn't even do that and he gets his parts at cost.
 
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