Awesome! my radiator has a new cooling technique!!

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kjweston

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It decided to start spraying my engine with coolant from the outside.. how nice of it to be so thoughtful and develop new methods of cooling.. not.. damnit. Think its a hose? my upper rad hose keeps getting covered in like a thick sludge. I would wipe it off then a week or two later it would be covered again. I've also put like two things of stop leak AND about 1.5 sticks of "qwiksteel" on the outside over the years. now this.. I was pumping gas today and smelled coolant.. a lot of it. looked under the hood and there's coolant sprayed on my steering rack, all under my battery, even all over my driver's side suspension. idk I'm just rantin' and ravin'
 

LibertyTC

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Sounds like it is drain and inspect time!
It could be the hose or fitting on rad end.
I would want to flush the system well to ensure new Hoat coolant is installed.
I would not want that stop leak stuff in my system.
 

kjweston

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You need someone to say you need to replace the radiator and flush all that stop leak out?

NOOOOOO, because that would be wrong... If I replaced the radiator, I'm not 100% sure but I dont think they come with stop leak gunked up from the factory these days.


was asking to see if anyone else had similar conditions and it turned out to be a hose or something cheaper than replacing the whole thing..
 

yellocoyote

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Check for leaks around your water pump while you're at it. Had one of the local guys have the water pump seal go, and sprayed the engine compartment with coolant.
 

Uncle Krusty

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Living here in AZ, (I Imagine Florida too) there are two things you don't "patch" together. The cooling system and the A/C.

If you have a leak, track it down and REPLACE the faulty item. While the system is open, new hoses, (Top, bottom, bypass, heater, and any others that carry fluid - as TJKJ said, new clamps), have the radiator flushed / checked at a reputable shop - replace if needed. Change the thermostat. Maybe even throw on a new belt - especially if the water pump was replaced.

I know it's alot, but there is notheing worse than changing out a water-pump, only to have the rad-core fall apart and spray all thet new antifreeze out on the ground.

SERVICE TIP: Whenever I repair or service anything on the cooling system, I refill it with water only and run it that way for a day or two. That way if I didn't get something tight, or sealed properly, I don't waste the new collant all over the ground. After I'm sure the problem is solved, I drain out the water, and re-fill with coolant.

I don't know about the new coolant, but in the past, I always ran a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze with DISTILLED Water. This was a tip an old mechanic had given me when I was a kid, and from my experince, it really cuts down on the corrosion.
 

LibertyTC

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UK running it with 100% water is not a good idea.
The impeller in water pump is plastic and I believe the Hoat helps to lubricate it.
I am sure TJ can discuss this further.
 

LibertyFever

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UK running it with 100% water is not a good idea.
The impeller in water pump is plastic and I believe the Hoat helps to lubricate it.
I am sure TJ can discuss this further.

I believe the advice was not to run no-HOAT coolant because it would damage the plastic(?!?) impeller in the water pump. I've looked for HOAT coolant in my local parts stores and can't find it. Maybe I need to look harder.

This idea of using distilled water intrigues me. I know it was best to use in batteries back in the day when you had to maintain your battery.
 

yellocoyote

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LibertyFever

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Pretty bottle :D
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Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT), I always wondered what it stood for.

"For convenience and protection, try Zerex® G-05 Ready To Use. Zerex® G-05 Ready To Use combines the excellent temperature and corrosion protection of Zerex® G-05 with de- mineralized water to help reduce the risk of cooling system deposits. The 50/50 mixture provides protection down to -34°F."

So I don't even need to add distilled water to it. Pretty simple.

Oops, I think we hi-jacked the thread guys :eek:
 

ptsb5a

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We don't need no stinkin' NAPA. We've got CanadianTire and they carry it.

As for the only water thing... water alone does not conduct heat as well as a water/coolant mix. Yeah, glycol happens to be an anti-freeze but it also increases the liquid's ability to transfer heat from the engine's components to the coolant.
 

osufans

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We don't need no stinkin' NAPA. We've got CanadianTire and they carry it.

As for the only water thing... water alone does not conduct heat as well as a water/coolant mix. Yeah, glycol happens to be an anti-freeze but it also increases the liquid's ability to transfer heat from the engine's components to the coolant.

And, it INCREASES the boiling point compared to water alone, which I can imagine is also necessary in AZ.

Oh, and my local Carquest does carry this also.
 

tjkj2002

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Always only use distilled water when mixing with coolant.Regular tap water has chemicals anmd minerals that plug up and create acid in the cooling system.


Oh and you can run 100% water in the summer time but I would not suggest it with a cast iron block and alloy heads,all cast engines it is perfectly okay as long as it's well above freezing and have a massive cooling system(radiator).
 
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