ABS Traction Control BAS/ESP WTF? Clock spring?

[laesurfer]

I have a 2006 liberty with 162k miles and it has been a beast, In a great way. I’m selling it because of the high miles, it hasn’t gave me any major troubles but I’m afraid it may soon.

I do however have a Christmas tree of lights including abs trac esp/bas. I have all new wheel speed sensors and I ohm(ed) them out several times and they appear to all be about the same. Not sure what the specs are but i figure they all are close so they must be good right? Now I’ve moved on to the wire harness from the connector under the rear seat to the esp contraption in the engine bay and traced and continuity tested all the speed sensor wires with good results. I’ve checked every fuse even unrelated fuses and to my eyes none are blown. Any ideas on where to go next? The dealer wanted $175 to read the codes but I’ve done the key 3 times off/on code trick on the odometer and... Nothing. not throwing codes

I have read that the clock spring can be related but ive also read that the air bag light will be on as well, mine is not on. is that 100%? Because when the key is out and I try to lock the steering wheel it won’t lock, it will free spin, with great effort of course. How else do I trouble shoot the clock spring?

Also my e brake light is on. I’ve completely removed my ebrakes due to rot so i would be ok with disconnecting entire system. So i unplugged the e brake switch and the light is still on. Does that single wire just move all the way to the dash?

Any help is great. Thanks in advance.

P.S. not sure on selling price yet. Blue book was still pretty high for my taste. How much are these going for based on KBB?
Also advanced auto sells the mopar part number for the rear sensors at a fraction of the dealer price

 

[tjkj2002]

The key trick will only display generic "P" codes,will not display "B" codes(body control) or "C" codes(ABS/SRS).You need a high end scanner to read the ABS system codes,those cheap $100-$200 code pullers do not do this or will advance auto or autozone.


The brake light will display with ESP,Traction Control,and ABS lights and will not turn off unless the issue with those systems are corrected 1st.Having a e-brake or not,un-plugging the e-brake switch or not has nothing to do with why the brake light is on now.


I'd go to the dealer and get it diagnosed,could be a bad ABS module or steering angle sensor.Granted I would not myself take it to the dealer but I have the correct scanner(Solus Ultra) and training to do these diagnoses and repairs.

 

[laesurfer]

I appreciate the advice, that gives me a good starting point. Is there a way I can trouble shoot the mentioned components? I have most of the car apart and the last time, well eveytime I've been to the jeep dealer I've been treated like crap.

Thanks again

Mark

 

[blackhawk]

HI Mark,

I faced the same trouble a month ago. I have a very good scanner, it showed problems with module . I erased the code but it appears again after 30 km/h.
One day, I was cleaning the interior . I push the OVERDRIVE button located at the manual gear. At this point the ignition was off.. After doing all of this cleaning I start the engine on, only one light was on "the overdrive off".
When I passed the 30 km/h I realized that suddenly all of those x-mas tree of light was out of my sight. They had gone! I don't know if this will also help you, but in my case was an unexpected solution.

 

[Billwill]

I have a 2006 liberty with 162k miles and it has been a beast, In a great way. I’m selling it because of the high miles, it hasn’t gave me any major troubles but I’m afraid it may soon.

I do however have a Christmas tree of lights including abs trac esp/bas. I have all new wheel speed sensors and I ohm(ed) them out several times and they appear to all be about the same. Not sure what the specs are but i figure they all are close so they must be good right? Now I’ve moved on to the wire harness from the connector under the rear seat to the esp contraption in the engine bay and traced and continuity tested all the speed sensor wires with good results. I’ve checked every fuse even unrelated fuses and to my eyes none are blown. Any ideas on where to go next? The dealer wanted $175 to read the codes but I’ve done the key 3 times off/on code trick on the odometer and... Nothing. not throwing codes

I have read that the clock spring can be related but ive also read that the air bag light will be on as well, mine is not on. is that 100%? Because when the key is out and I try to lock the steering wheel it won’t lock, it will free spin, with great effort of course. How else do I trouble shoot the clock spring?

Also my e brake light is on. I’ve completely removed my ebrakes due to rot so i would be ok with disconnecting entire system. So i unplugged the e brake switch and the light is still on. Does that single wire just move all the way to the dash?

Any help is great. Thanks in advance.

P.S. not sure on selling price yet. Blue book was still pretty high for my taste. How much are these going for based on KBB?
Also advanced auto sells the mopar part number for the rear sensors at a fraction of the dealer price

Firstly the ebrake light...try shorting the wire to ground rather than disconnecting it...it goes to ground anyway on the one side and then direct to the cluster.

The key trick does not work on the 2006 KJ and as stated will not show ESP etc. lights.

The clock spring could be faulty....the flexable printed circuit section for the Air bags might still be intact so the fact that the air bag light does not come on does not mean that the complete clock spring is OK.

The failure of the steering wheel to lock has nothing to do with the clock spring.

I have seen some posts like this where the ESP/Traction control problem was caused by the driver resting his foot on the brake pedal while driving!:icon_neutral: