chef0069
New Member
Just got my 30,000 mile service at 43,000 miles. I bought my 2007 with 39,000, and had no record of it being done. Needed rear brakes also. 1000 clams. how did I do?
30,000 mile
- Thread starter chef0069
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Does not take much at the dealer to spend one K, is that where you got the work done?
I suppose that included All new oils, (******) transfer cases, power steering flush etc?It is it is a good idea to have records while still under the power train warranty, I let dealer do the service. As of June My power train will be up, an I will do all the service, except transmission from there.
I suppose that included All new oils, (******) transfer cases, power steering flush etc?It is it is a good idea to have records while still under the power train warranty, I let dealer do the service. As of June My power train will be up, an I will do all the service, except transmission from there.
chef0069
New Member
service
Yup, had it done at the dealers.
Yup, had it done at the dealers.
What exactly did you get done? besides rear brakes?
The spark plugs replacement and throttle body you can clean yourself.
A dealer emission service where they remove the throttle body and use spray in commercial cleaner is about $300 alone.
The spark plugs replacement and throttle body you can clean yourself.
A dealer emission service where they remove the throttle body and use spray in commercial cleaner is about $300 alone.
chef0069
New Member
30000
It says oil and filter, lube chassis, clean air box, replace air filter,drain and replace ****** fluid and filter,transfer case fluid, front and rear differential fluids, rotate, check psi, balance tires,check brakes, air flow settings, check belt tension, check battery, clean, tighten terminals.
It says oil and filter, lube chassis, clean air box, replace air filter,drain and replace ****** fluid and filter,transfer case fluid, front and rear differential fluids, rotate, check psi, balance tires,check brakes, air flow settings, check belt tension, check battery, clean, tighten terminals.
That is fine but keep in mind that the rear differential lube should be drained and refilled more frequently,every 12-15 k miles. GL5 75W-90; many use Lucas 80w-90 gear oil products as they seem to work well. or (75) or 85-140 for when towing. Use regular lube not synthetics. http://www.lucasoil.ca/products/product.asp?id=33&cat=Automotive
Spark Plugs should also be changed every 30k miles, NGK or Autolite Double Platinum should be used. Here is a how video that gives you an idea how to do your own plugs. It is not that hard, and the jeep will run better/smoother with fresh plugs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxsEOCqhHx8
Cleaning the throttle body and IAC (intake air control) is something that should also be done every 30k. http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47972
Replace or clean the PCV valve every 30k is a good idea as well.
I would also consider using Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30 motor oil and a quality filter like Mobil1 or Purolator. Synthetics flow better in cold to-47 which allows easier starts, with less carbon by products and better cleaning properties to keep the Jeep happy. Most of us use the Mobil 1 synthetic for our engine oil.
Spark Plugs should also be changed every 30k miles, NGK or Autolite Double Platinum should be used. Here is a how video that gives you an idea how to do your own plugs. It is not that hard, and the jeep will run better/smoother with fresh plugs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxsEOCqhHx8
Cleaning the throttle body and IAC (intake air control) is something that should also be done every 30k. http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47972
Replace or clean the PCV valve every 30k is a good idea as well.
I would also consider using Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30 motor oil and a quality filter like Mobil1 or Purolator. Synthetics flow better in cold to-47 which allows easier starts, with less carbon by products and better cleaning properties to keep the Jeep happy. Most of us use the Mobil 1 synthetic for our engine oil.
moparman
Full Access Member
chef0069
New Member
Thanks for the info, but I'm not much of a mechanic, pretty much at the mercy of the shops!
yellocoyote
Administrator
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I wasn't either when I bought my KJ, but I've learned... and can do most of what's on your list myself now. Most of that stuff really isn't difficult to do. And you save a ton of money in the process.
X2 as above. Chrysler schedule recommends the Rear Diff Lube Change at 12-15k miles.
The KJ is great because you can lift the hood and change the plugs and much of the basic tune up work with some basic tools, including a socket set and extensions, spark plug sockets.
I can't imagine always going to shops, I like doing work myself where possible.
In Photo below the blue kit 233 piece with both metric & Standard was bought on sale $100
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/Sockets/SocketSets/PRD~0589235P/Mastercraft%252B233-piece%252BSocket%252BSet.jsp
38818[/ATTACH]"]
It is always good to have tools with you when you travel in the KJ.
The KJ is great because you can lift the hood and change the plugs and much of the basic tune up work with some basic tools, including a socket set and extensions, spark plug sockets.
I can't imagine always going to shops, I like doing work myself where possible.
In Photo below the blue kit 233 piece with both metric & Standard was bought on sale $100
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/Sockets/SocketSets/PRD~0589235P/Mastercraft%252B233-piece%252BSocket%252BSet.jsp
38818[/ATTACH]"]
You must be registered for see images attach
It is always good to have tools with you when you travel in the KJ.
Attachments
Probably ok for a dealer and including the back brakes which have both disk brake pads and e-brake drum type brakes. The fluids for the diffs and t-case and ****** aren't cheap either when you start figuring it out. At least going to the dealer you know you got the correct fluids.
Since you bought it used, now you have done all the services which is good and the dealer will have a record of it on their computer.
Dave
Wow needed rear brakes at 43000 miles?
I wonder how some people drive burning up brakes that fast.
I swapped my rears out at 100,000 and they were still good shape yet, ebrake ones are still stock at 153,000
I wonder how some people drive burning up brakes that fast.
I swapped my rears out at 100,000 and they were still good shape yet, ebrake ones are still stock at 153,000
rockymountain
Full Access Member
Yea I would suspect sticky calipers at that rate. Then again, they probably just said hey lets add rear brakes to this to even it out at a grand. :Wedgie:
At 30k miles my fronts were done and my rears are now at 35 %. ( I tow though)
I have to do the screwdriver trick on the e-brake pin to keep the handle from always going up. They should have recalled the crappy cable slack adjuster.
The rear spinners were adjusted recently.
Jeep should supply wheel blocks! (LOL)
I have to do the screwdriver trick on the e-brake pin to keep the handle from always going up. They should have recalled the crappy cable slack adjuster.
The rear spinners were adjusted recently.
Jeep should supply wheel blocks! (LOL)
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Yeah, brakes should last longer than that but the OP bought it used. Probably driven in city traffic all the time before he got it. I have had rear brakes last 150,000 with all highway driving I do.
Dave
Dave
maverick7321
Full Access Member
I had to have front and rear brakes done on my 2005 KJ at 32,000 but I also bought mine used and have a feeling that might have been part of the issue with them needing changing so soon.
chef0069
New Member
Had no idea the brakes last that long. is that the brake pads, rotor, everything? i've never had any car that did not need brakes every now and then. (Maybe it's me?)
Depending on the proportioning valve, based on 60% front 40% rear, theoretically speaking the fronts do most of the work.
It is possible to have the rear's only replaced once, while the front has been serviced twice, for instance.
A lot of it has to do with how someone drives. Do you coast up to the light or always on the brakes in city mode?
I often use the gears to gear down while towing. Currently my Jeep feels weak in the braking department, even with front new.
I think I need to improve the calipers, brake pads, and rotors above OEM specs.
It is possible to have the rear's only replaced once, while the front has been serviced twice, for instance.
A lot of it has to do with how someone drives. Do you coast up to the light or always on the brakes in city mode?
I often use the gears to gear down while towing. Currently my Jeep feels weak in the braking department, even with front new.
I think I need to improve the calipers, brake pads, and rotors above OEM specs.
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ptsb5a
Full Access Member
Pretty extensive list, could learn to do it all yourself and save a butt load of cash. Not really all that difficult.
I call ******** on the chassis lube, unless of course they sprayed it with your used engine oil. All of the stock bits on a KJ are lube-for-life and cannot be serviced. Also a WTF on the air flow settings.
Generic
Ya that is the computer adding generic type of form.
p:
Well I suppose after the oil change, he lubed the chassis by smearing his hands all over the place !:shrug:
And as far as the air flow settings, that was hooking up into OBD and checked to see an open Map, so he knew where to go for the test drive! :happy175:
Ya that is the computer adding generic type of form.
p:Well I suppose after the oil change, he lubed the chassis by smearing his hands all over the place !:shrug:
And as far as the air flow settings, that was hooking up into OBD and checked to see an open Map, so he knew where to go for the test drive! :happy175:
