Swapped out the RBK headunit for an RAZ headunit. Cassette adapter backup for Sirius or iPod in case the box takes a dump, plus easier bass/treble and fade/balance controls.
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'05 Renegade fixer-upper
- Thread starter Leeann
- Start date
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Yesterday, the bf cleaned, degreased and lightly sandblasted the Mopar skids from MoD, then put a light coat of rust converter on.
Today, put dark primer on and let each side bake in the sun. Tomorrow, will start putting coats of Rustoleum Professional gloss on.
Today, put dark primer on and let each side bake in the sun. Tomorrow, will start putting coats of Rustoleum Professional gloss on.
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Replaced the passenger side wheel bearing/hub assembly along with both sets of sway bar bushings and end links. Hub wasn't awful, actually, but was gritty with a couple bad spots in it. Rubber on the sway bar bushings and end links also wasn't awful but was starting to weather-check and crack.
First, hub nut off
Nope, not a 35mm
Yup, it is 36mm
Caliper removed and tied up out of the way
Caliper bracket off, all bolts started in their holes so I don't lose 'em
Naked hub
Sprayed each bolt end with PB Blaster and hit with the wire brush to clean them up
Hub bolts all came out easily with an E-14 I grabbed from Pep Boys in a 4-pc set (GearWrench, I think)
Old hub off, with the puller, brass punch and BFH
Loose CV axle
At this point, I sprayed a little PB on all the rust on the mating surfaces, then wire brushed them clean. Cleaned up the splines with a brass brush and greased everything, including the splines, with wheel bearing grease.
Old hub vs new…new (Timken) is quite a bit beefier in almost every respect
New hub bolted in place. Before I did anything, I sprayed the hub bolts with PB and hit them with the wire brush to clean up the threads and the shanks
And from the front
Rotor back on
Brake bracket back on
Now the caliper
Tightening the hub nut back down, screwdriver to hold things in place
Now for bushings and end links.
First, old vs new bushings - old aren't terrible, but…
Jack up lower control arm to get pressure off the components
New bushing installed
New end link in place, but not tightened down
Back on the ground and tightened down
Just got a report from my test driver (I'm drinking well-deserved beer): much, much quieter and smoother.
First, hub nut off
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Nope, not a 35mm
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Yup, it is 36mm
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Caliper removed and tied up out of the way
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Caliper bracket off, all bolts started in their holes so I don't lose 'em
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Naked hub
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Sprayed each bolt end with PB Blaster and hit with the wire brush to clean them up
You must be registered for see images attach
Hub bolts all came out easily with an E-14 I grabbed from Pep Boys in a 4-pc set (GearWrench, I think)
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Old hub off, with the puller, brass punch and BFH
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Loose CV axle
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At this point, I sprayed a little PB on all the rust on the mating surfaces, then wire brushed them clean. Cleaned up the splines with a brass brush and greased everything, including the splines, with wheel bearing grease.
Old hub vs new…new (Timken) is quite a bit beefier in almost every respect
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New hub bolted in place. Before I did anything, I sprayed the hub bolts with PB and hit them with the wire brush to clean up the threads and the shanks
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And from the front
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Rotor back on
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Brake bracket back on
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Now the caliper
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Tightening the hub nut back down, screwdriver to hold things in place
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Now for bushings and end links.
First, old vs new bushings - old aren't terrible, but…
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Jack up lower control arm to get pressure off the components
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New bushing installed
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New end link in place, but not tightened down
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Back on the ground and tightened down
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Just got a report from my test driver (I'm drinking well-deserved beer): much, much quieter and smoother.
Naked Hubs on JeepKJ! What is this site coming to? :ban:
Nice work - it is a thing of beauty! :cheers:
Nice work - it is a thing of beauty! :cheers:
I had let my (hated) holly trees overgrow my '93 Astro with a few holes in the oil pan (previous owner neglect), so last week I trimmed back the branches. This week I pulled out the new toy and washed the poor, neglected thing. And the front of the '02 which was covered in bugs and holly tree dirt. And a little on the back of the Libby since car washes just don't get there (but no pics of that).
Toy:
Filled it with oil, filled it with stabilized fuel, attached the soap concentrate siphon hose, turned it on, pulled once to get fuel to the carb and pulled a second time for vroooooom.
Before:
During:
And after:
Perfect? Heck, no. I didn't pull out a sponge and rub, I didn't switch tips to use more soap. However, it doesn't look like it's been sitting there for years any more. And I got to play with the new toy and figure out how things work. Put the oil in, put the gas and stabilizer in, turned the switch on, pulled once, pulled twice, vroom. It's a really nice motor.
Toy:
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Filled it with oil, filled it with stabilized fuel, attached the soap concentrate siphon hose, turned it on, pulled once to get fuel to the carb and pulled a second time for vroooooom.
Before:
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During:
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And after:
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Perfect? Heck, no. I didn't pull out a sponge and rub, I didn't switch tips to use more soap. However, it doesn't look like it's been sitting there for years any more. And I got to play with the new toy and figure out how things work. Put the oil in, put the gas and stabilizer in, turned the switch on, pulled once, pulled twice, vroom. It's a really nice motor.
Hard to believe it's the same vehicle. Nice job! :cheers:
Replaced the transfer case side CV joint on the front driveshaft today. Looked underneath last week while replacing the front oxygen sensors with NTK (side note: I'd like to hurt the Chrysler engineer who decided on the length & placement of the wiring harnesses for those) and saw this:
Had the replacement joint on the shelf thanks to warnings on here, so today I dug in.
Followed the same procedure I figured out during the ****** swap, using my 1-1/16" wrench against the transfer case end of the shaft and a bfh with one whack to get it loose, then tap&turn ad infinitum on the diff end to get it loose. T-case end goes up, diff end comes down, then thread the shaft out to get the t-case end out near the front of the ****** where the opening is bigger.
Boot was almost severed:
Popped off the cap. Plenty of grease left, but probably not for long:
Cleaned off some grease to find the snap ring
And used snap ring pliers to remove it. Note placement of gasket for assembly.
Knocked joint off splines, removed remainder of boot, cleaned up shaft with degreaser and sandpaper
Installed new boot
And filled with grease. Greased the underside of the new joint and slid onto the shaft, then gently tapped around and around with a ball pein hammer to get it all the way on and reinstalled the snap ring
Filled the top with grease, worked the joint, added more grease, worked the joint...until full. Squirted the rest on top, installed the new gasket and top cover. Then installed the new band on the boot, after using a little screwdriver to release any trapped air:
Then reinstalled on the jeep using the reverse of the above method. I had marked the diff end during the ****** replacement with red china marker and the marks were still present, so I matched them up for reinstallation.
Drove it around the yard and had to keep my foot on the brake the whole way - pulled around the whole thing with no input on the skinny pedal. And no noise at all.
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Had the replacement joint on the shelf thanks to warnings on here, so today I dug in.
Followed the same procedure I figured out during the ****** swap, using my 1-1/16" wrench against the transfer case end of the shaft and a bfh with one whack to get it loose, then tap&turn ad infinitum on the diff end to get it loose. T-case end goes up, diff end comes down, then thread the shaft out to get the t-case end out near the front of the ****** where the opening is bigger.
Boot was almost severed:
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Popped off the cap. Plenty of grease left, but probably not for long:
You must be registered for see images attach
Cleaned off some grease to find the snap ring
You must be registered for see images attach
And used snap ring pliers to remove it. Note placement of gasket for assembly.
Knocked joint off splines, removed remainder of boot, cleaned up shaft with degreaser and sandpaper
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Installed new boot
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And filled with grease. Greased the underside of the new joint and slid onto the shaft, then gently tapped around and around with a ball pein hammer to get it all the way on and reinstalled the snap ring
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Filled the top with grease, worked the joint, added more grease, worked the joint...until full. Squirted the rest on top, installed the new gasket and top cover. Then installed the new band on the boot, after using a little screwdriver to release any trapped air:
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Then reinstalled on the jeep using the reverse of the above method. I had marked the diff end during the ****** replacement with red china marker and the marks were still present, so I matched them up for reinstallation.
Drove it around the yard and had to keep my foot on the brake the whole way - pulled around the whole thing with no input on the skinny pedal. And no noise at all.
That will be a nice guide for the next poor soul who has to do this.
Well done! :waytogo:
Well done! :waytogo:
thanks so much this will come in handy when i do this job next week. my 2005 liberty has a squeek like you wouldnt believe and sometimes sound like ghosts with chains LOL. i took it to a shop this morning and they couldnt find the problem!!! what a bunch of losers!!! i come on the forum and register and ive got my answer in a few hours!! thanks so much!! you guys are great!!
TheBlueKJ
Full Access Member
Your old joint looked exactly like mine did
Sent from my iPhone using the power of children's laughter
Sent from my iPhone using the power of children's laughter
I'm in the process of replacing mine as well. The driveshaft is out and I got the cap removed and there was zero grease left in it just dust and rust. Got the snap ring off but the joint will not budge a bit. Any tips on removing the joint or do I just need to soak it with some pb blaster and get a bigger hammer?
