'04 Stalled twice today, 4 codes thrown - crank and cam sensors but I just replaced

[johnnygrace]

So I stalled going down a very steep hill a couple hours ago. Right when the car stalled the check engine light came on along with the oil light for a brief few seconds then the oil light disappeared but the CEL was still on.

I got these codes:

P0442 Evap Leak
P0300 random misfire
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Intermittent

So i first checked the gas cap and sure enough the cap wasn't even screwed down. Then 20 minutes later it stalled again accelerating out of a stop light. and it threw P0340 camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction as well as the others.

Then on the way home if I accelerated fast it would get to a certain point say 2000 rpm and then the engine would cut out but not stall, just kinda stop for a second till i let up on the acceleration. I could replicate this problem at the same point during acceleration each time. I replaced the cam and crank position sensors a couple months ago with duralast ones from autozone.

Long story short it stalled while idling in a parking lot last weekend. First time that happened. I think I got P0300 that time. A couple times in the previous months it has had trouble starting but after 4 or so cranks it starts right up.

I replaced all the spark plugs but didn't check coil packs a couple months ago as I'm new to this all so didn't realize to do it.

Anyone have suggestion of what to look at? I guess it would make sense to replace the crank and cam sensors again with OEM ones before anything else?? Could something else cause both those codes to get thrown?

 

[uss2defiant]

yes. replace both CPS and CKS.
They are causing the misfiring and the symptoms you've described.

 

[uss2defiant]

Cks 56041479ad
cps 56041584ac

 

[tjkj2002]

I replaced the cam and crank position sensors a couple months ago with duralast ones from autozone.

That be your issue,well 99% sure it's your issue.


You buy oil/filters and air fresheners at autozone,not critical engine sensors/parts.

 

[uss2defiant]

I agree with tjkj on this. Speaking from experience.

 

[johnnygrace]

Ok guys thanks for replying. I will replace with OEM and then write back with the results.

 

[uss2defiant]

you can return the autozone sensors and get your money back

 

[johnnygrace]

you can return the autozone sensors and get your money back

while I'm at it I better cancel that duralast transmission I have on order... :favorites68: j/k

 

[renegade 04]

when you replace the cam and crank position sensors you need to do a relearn.

 

[johnnygrace]

when you replace the cam and crank position sensors you need to do a relearn.

Hi Renegade, whats the best way to do that? i looked around and someone said disconnect battery overnight, another said touch one terminal to the other for 15 seconds...is a relearn for crank and cam sensors different like resetting the pcm or something?

 

[tjkj2002]

when you replace the cam and crank position sensors you need to do a relearn.

No relearn needed,just make sure to clear the PCM memory(via scanner) to clear nay pending codes(or hard codes if any).

 

[johnnygrace]

Great, i just stalled at a light with same codes minus evap one which was obviously gas cap off. That really confirms it in my mind. Thank god ive got the mopar sensors due to arrive today. Gonna put them in tonight, lets hope i dont have as much trouble getting the camshaft sensor out as i did last time.... http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/crankshaft-position-sensor-you-gotta-kidding-me-57362/

 

[MarkJ]

I don't care who made the sensors (I am using a autozone camshaft sensor that works fine) but the chances of both of them going out at the same time are astronomical. I would bet money against that being the problem. One problem I DO remember having is the new camshaft sensor did not want to go back up into it's hole flush with the block. You could pull it up with the bolt, but that left the sensor at an angle because the opposite side would not pull up tight (even though the o-ring was inside, it was still crooked). I had to take the tension off the bolt and press up hard while twisting to get it even close to flush. Also I tried it once when it was angled like that and it immediately threw the 340 code. That puppy has to be nearly flush to work right.

It has to be something common to both sensors (and I don't mean Autozone

Isn't the 5 volt power source common to both of these sensors?

 

[johnnygrace]

Mark that makes sense. I put the new sensors in last night and the way they fit/mount doesnt inspire confidence that they are perfectly flush or seated properly. That could easily have been my issue. The cam sensor just slid into the hole no problem but the crank sensor is the one that seemed to get pulled crooked by the mounting bolt. I really tried to twist and push it in as far as i could this time. Good news is the duralast one came out with light prying pressure and did seem like maybe it wasnt seated properly. Anyhow i was able to get my money back so i feel better with the mopar sensors. Maybe the problem with the duralast ones is a less than perfect fit? The car drove fine to autozone which is only a few blocks. I cleared the codes there as well so i'll see how it drives today.

 

[uss2defiant]

how badly is it tilted? got a pic?
hard to imagine a slight tilt wouldd cause issues. it is just a hall effect sensor.

 

[MarkJ]

On mine it was 3/32" max from one side to the other. Made it throw a 340 until I straightened it out. I actually swapped it out twice thinking I had gotten a bad one.

 

[johnnygrace]

I cant imagine either of mine were 3/32 crooked although its hard to see the cam sensor and its not so tight in its hole so it might have been that. Driving around today everything seems fine. Now i just gotta figure out the rough idle and what seems to be a sometimes sluggish transmission.

 

[uss2defiant]

did you check your spark plugs and coils after the misfirings?

 

[johnnygrace]

No, can that foul a plug? Whats the best way to check the coil?

 

[uss2defiant]

I had 2 coils ballooned on me but they were fine when I measured the resistance. Replaced them both.

primary resistance-0.6 to 0.9 ohms
secondary resistance-6,000 to 9,000 ohms

I think measuring the resistance between pins on the connector is the primary resistance and the 2ndary is one of the two pins to the spring.

Doesn't hurt to check the plugs again.