What did you do to your jeep today?

The bearing seems to be good. There’s no play at all. I’ll be doing an oil change today, so I can look into it more later.

duderz7 said:

Pads and rotors wear together, you almost always should replace both.

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Depending on wear, rotors and drums can be machine turned to clean up imperfections. Most shade tree mechanics don’t bother and wear pads out much faster.

I had never heard of that.

And it makes no sense to me.
dc

And I never wear pads out faster, either.

But I've never been the type of driver or rider (as I am talking about motorcycles) that has to stomp on the accelerator and race up to the next stop light and then stomp on the brakes.

Particularly now, where I moved out of the big city to where there are two stop lights in the whole county, and some counties around here with no stop lights in the whole county.

David13 said:

I had never heard of that.

And it makes no sense to me.
dc

And I never wear pads out faster, either.

But I've never been the type of driver or rider (as I am talking about motorcycles) that has to stomp on the accelerator and race up to the next stop light and then stomp on the brakes.

Particularly now, where I moved out of the big city to where there are two stop lights in the whole county, and some counties around here with no stop lights in the whole county.

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A smooth, truly flat surface on a rotor will stop better than a rotor looking like this. This one also acts like a cheese grater on pad material. That's a well acknowledged fact in the science of braking. You may not need good braking in the rural country until that moment you do.



This one gets tossed, as it's well past recoverable.

if bearing is good and we're talking about the passenger side, it's probably the outer CV joint on its way out.

CV and Intermediate shaft will make those noises

wheel bearings can be worn out and still feel tight

David13 said:

I had never heard of that.

And it makes no sense to me.
dc

And I never wear pads out faster, either.

But I've never been the type of driver or rider (as I am talking about motorcycles) that has to stomp on the accelerator and race up to the next stop light and then stomp on the brakes.

Particularly now, where I moved out of the big city to where there are two stop lights in the whole county, and some counties around here with no stop lights in the whole county.

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Complete brake job is new pads and rotors, especially anymore since the rotors are a lot thinner to save weight than when they used to be
I went to school back in 72 for Brakes and Suspensions, all I did for several years, back then you could still turn down rotors since they were a lot thicker
But as I said lot thinner anymore

Got a few years on me, Tom. Started wrenching hotrods in 1973. 21 years working on USAF fighters shortly after that. Back to school and did powersports repair for another several before retiring in 2017.

sota said:

if bearing is good and we're talking about the passenger side, it's probably the outer CV joint on its way out.

Click to expand...

tommudd said:

CV and Intermediate shaft will make those noises

wheel bearings can be worn out and still feel tight

Click to expand...

Thanks for the input, guys. I’ll check those out tomorrow.

Fixed the passenger brake light (it was burnt out) refinished both headlights and 3rd brake light, replaced a side marker light and added an HID kit. Makes a huge difference at night.

Another thing - Has anyone ever used NGK coils for the 3.7's? Or do they have to be strictly MOPAR? Asking because NGK coils are $15 a piece, and MOPAR's are $35. Or does anyone recommend a good coil? Plugs were replaced a few thousand miles ago, with correct NGK's.

barring someone coming in with experience otherwise, I'd go with NGK. They make good stuff in general.

I’d agree NGKs are fine, if I were to replace 1 coil, I’d buy Mopar. But if I had to buy all 6 I would go with the NGK for the cost savings.
Though I have not had to replace my coils yet.

On Vaca 400 miles away, Took my 07 liberty to my family's mechanic (30+ years going to them) as battery keeps draining (vamp drain). They replaced the negative cable end then found 9ohm resistance in 1 cell causing the drain. The battery is a Super Start from the "O" auto store and, is a warranty replacement from 6 months ago. Need to jump it if it sits for more than 12 hours (using a Lithium battery pack jump starter)
Going to warranty it again, but looking hard at car batteries now. Based on earlier posts, thinking this one from Rock Auto. (come on stimulus check)

****** rider said:

A smooth, truly flat surface on a rotor will stop better than a rotor looking like this. This one also acts like a cheese grater on pad material. That's a well acknowledged fact in the science of braking. You may not need good braking in the rural country until that moment you do.

You must be registered for see images attach

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I don't know what you did to that rotor, or whoever did it, but I have never changed brake pads and had a rotor in that bad of a condition.

Remember before I lived here I lived 44 years in Los Angeles, CA area. And there, and here with deer and ice, I do need braking.

But, like I say, I've never had a rotor look that bad. And I have dealt with abs issues for years. And solved them all.

I started working on cars in the early 1060s. In those days there were no disk brakes. All shoes.

Working in any commercial operation it's always advised to sell more, not less, particularly if some safety argument can be made for it. That's certainly the case with rotors.

But my practice has always been to only replace rotors IF THEY NEED IT. Not if they are in perfect condition just as a s.o.p.

The one shown in the photo, I agree, needs it. But, like I say, I never seen one that bad on any of my cars. Or motorcycles.

And yes, I rode a motorcycle in Los Angeles, freeways, and all that goes with it.
dc[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]

****** rider said:

A smooth, truly flat surface on a rotor will stop better than a rotor looking like this. This one also acts like a cheese grater on pad material. That's a well acknowledged fact in the science of braking. You may not need good braking in the rural country until that moment you do.

You must be registered for see images attach

This one gets tossed, as it's well past recoverable.

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Yes, one like you posted the photo of would diminish braking by 40-50% due to wear on it
Worse even if brand new pads were installed on rotors like this
Rotors are cheap anymore for most vehicles so its a no brainer to replace them
As far as turning them anymore just for anyone wondering , you can turn them, but very little due to them being thin already.
But also with that being said they will warp a lot faster when they get hot.
Some slap and go shops still do it sadly but in the end you pay in either less braking power or warped rotors.

Generally, I’ll mike them and compare to min thickness. If I can get them cleaned up with more than half wear of a new rotor left, machine surface. But, I’m a cheap old coot.

And for David13 - I’ve played in traffic on motorcycles all over this nation including California. I love lane sharing! It just makes so much sense.

That was a picture example of many I’ve seen on bikes and cars. Had a few come in that had been metal on metal for far too long, one side of rotor just gone.

I believe in squeezing every bit of use out of the stuff I buy.

MarksmanAkula said:

Fixed the passenger brake light (it was burnt out) refinished both headlights and 3rd brake light, replaced a side marker light and added an HID kit. Makes a huge difference at night.

Another thing - Has anyone ever used NGK coils for the 3.7's? Or do they have to be strictly MOPAR? Asking because NGK coils are $15 a piece, and MOPAR's are $35. Or does anyone recommend a good coil? Plugs were replaced a few thousand miles ago, with correct NGK's.

Click to expand...

I purchased the set of 6 MasterPro from O'Reilly Autp Parts...they are working fine so far. NGK - you probably can't go wrong. Get 'em.

I think it’s safe to say these were original...



The stutter around 2300rpm is gone now

I found the noise. The passenger side CV is toast. I’ll probably go to a shop for that. I don’t have room at the moment.

There’s also oil leaking from the axle on that side. Is that an outer seal, or an inner seal I’m looking at? Is that a sign that the half shaft bearing is toast?