Yes.
Unfortunately nobody told you there are MAJOR issues installing a lift on a liberty.
This post will trigger some here. F.. them. I just spend a 2 years learning all about this.
1). You need upper A frames for a 3-5" lift. They push out further than stock so they don't drag on the strut springs. and also correct the alignment "castor"
2). Any lift with stock CVC joints will cause the CVC joints bind and lock up with strut at full extension. Yes that is extremely bad.
One solution is to drop the cradle a 1". That creates other clearance steering column issues but also negates the whole reason to lift as now you cradle is right back where it was stock.
Go to your local O Reilies. Ask the manager ( because the normal funky at the counter has no idea these exist. They are not listed in their computer) to get you the Precision brand off road CV joints. I listed the part number on a previous post. They are not cheap $350 each. But they are not $2000 like the bs the specially off road shops will sell you. They have an articulation of 43 degrees vs the stock 27 degrees. Another benefits these will also gives you full turning radius with the 4WD engaged. This is very nice.
2a). Use a ratchet strap to install the struts. Locate one end on the other side lower A frame (control arm). Attach the other end through the center of the wish bone fork for the bottom of the strut using a 6-8" bar. (Anything like 1/2 rebar or socket extention) work. You may need a extra hand to hold it all in place until you get tension on the strap. Then you will be amazed how easy all of a sudden it is to line up that bolt.
2b). Leave the top struct nuts at least 2-3 turns loose to give you more swing room to get the pesky bottom bolt in.
3) dump the OEM sway bar links. They will not work. If you go off roading you will break them as the lift will put the sway-bar in contact with the tie rod end and lower A frame. There is a adjustable link with real ball joints not rubber bushing on each end. This will allow you to put the sway bar back where it should be. I put those part numbers on a previous post. Again, just last week concerning the "clunk clunk".
4) Rocky road has a good set up. I love OME struts on their RR springs.
5) Put progressive springs for a 3" lift in the back. There are several brands. The important point is the"progressive." And the right hight.
5a) you need longer shocks. MORE IS NOT BETTER. If the shocks are longer than the springs at full extention your springs will fall out!!!!
5b) at 3" lift at full extension, your original rear upper control arm will be in contact with frame. Just barely. But if you stay at 3" and go easy where you may be a full extention, not a issue. If you are going rock crawling you will need the custom rear upper control arm that will give you clearance and the differential angles is adjustable.
With the RR struts in front and progressive spring back your jeep is more stable. And it will no longer rattle your teeth on every little pebble as the suspension is now doing its job. Not the body and seat.
6) speaking of seats. Get a Cordue front seat. ( no parts are available for the original seat) They are sold in sets ... but call Cordue to see if they have a driverside "return". They will sell that as a single item.
I also put this seat installation in a previous post. You need their seat bracket. But its to light weight. But you can use it with the original bracket to make a good one.
5). Sooner or latter You will need a new driver-side seat belt buckle. The original breaks. I also listed a good part number from ebay. However the seat switch connector is wrong. Cut off the connecters. Slice the new belt buckle wires to the old connector. It is just 2 wires.
7) You find the seat belt buckle on the Cordue seat bracket is too low. Get any of those belt extenders from ebay. Works good.
8) BTW There has been a darth of acceptable winch bumpers available for KJ. Recently one of the best winch bumper manufactures has restarted the KJ line. The important point for winch bumpers for KJ... the unit-frame is thin sheet metal. Its no good places to attach a 10,000 lbs winch to. There is one kit that has doublers you put inside the original frame tubbing and other places to beef it up. If you don't do something like that you are going to be real unhappy when the winch tears off the whole front end from radiator forward.
I made my own winch bumper that ties into the front cradle bolts. The original cradle bolts are long enough to go through a 1/2" thick metal bracket from bumper and the cradle.
9) Now you get to figure out wheels & tires. I stayed with stock size but aggressive mud tread. So far it works for me. Just note you MUST put the same brand & size on front and back. Or gets expensive.
10) and skid plates. SkidRow makes a decent set for the liberty. You will need a riv-nut tool set as not all the holes are in the frames and crossmembers. Nobody makes skid plate for the Liberty rear diff. Lots of discussion on what will fit. Show me. I will probably make my own.
My Liberty is my ranch truck. In the Ozarks. Everyday is off road. I did my lift cuz I was tired of dragging ass. If I need bigger and more I drive my LMTV.
