How To: Change front driveshaft / change a driveshaft head

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Perps

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Good advise guys.

@TwoBobsKJ - that bracket is what was holding back the shaft from removal in the first place so I'm assuming with your advise to remove it I'll have the little extra clearance needed to get back in, thanks for the tip.

Gonna go out and wrestle with it again this afternoon before the storm rolls in tonight hah.
 

juniorle3

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Took out my driveshaft to replace the transfer case end of the shaft and had differential fluid (smelled like 80-90) come out when I broke the the shaft lose from the front differential. Should there be fluid in there and how would it get in there?
 

Chuck Mosher

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Another thanks for this from the future - 2016 already !?

My daughter-in-law has a 2003 Liberty (my old one ;-) that developed a "clunking" noise when in 4WD. Found this post from a google search, after she had quotes from two different shops in the $3,000 range - "Replace steering rack and transfer case".

The picture titled "If your driveshaft boot looks like this" looks exactly like ours. Rattling the shaft by hand reproduces the noise we heard. Parts cost me $90 bucks with shipping on e-bay. A couple hours in the home garage and we're back in action !

Thanks,
Chuck Mosher
 

9maddog

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before i take out my front driveshaft ,i just want to double check that its ok to drive your jeep without doing any damage to anything else,i do know not to put it in four wheel drive.
 

jrsavoie

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Diff side doesn't go bad all that often. I did replace both ends when I did mine, only because it made more sense to since the shaft was out and in my hands. I got the CV ends kit from rockauto.

How have yours held up?

I replaced mine 6 months ago. It's bad now

I got it here. http://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=me807

But I want a part that lasts. What is the best rear joint on the front drive shaft to buy for replacement?

Is there a different fix that lasts?
 
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Yodahe

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The case of the Front differential of my 2004 Jeep cherokee 2.8 crd limited had a crack and the oil spilled and the car was driven without any oil and now the whole front differential needs to be changed but it is too expensive to import because of local taxes so i was wondering if i can remove the drive shaft like u said and safely be able to drive with only the 2 wd option.It is a part time wheel drive. It has 2wd,4wd part time, 4wd full time and 4lo option on the hub.
The drive shaft to the front differentials rotates even when i put it in 2 wd mode.
If there is any other technical option let me know.
Thanks
 

CactusJacked

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Removing the driveshaft isn't going to help any. The front wheels are rotating the front differential and in turn the driveshaft, they're always connected. To isolate the wheels from the diff, and stop everything from turning, you will need to remove both cv axles. You can leave the driveshaft on, it won't matter, won't be turning unless you put the transfer case in 4 lo or hi.
 
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jrsavoie

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Removing the driveshaft isn't going to help any. The front wheels are rotating the front differential and in turn the driveshaft, they're always connected. To isolate the wheels from the diff, and stop everything from turning, you will need to remove both cv axles. You can leave the driveshaft on, it won't matter, won't be turning unless you put the transfer case in 4 lo or hi.


I did not think you could run with the front half axles removed?

I thought you needed The nut to hold the front bearings together. I think if you used a stub shaft to hold the front bearings together, you could run like that. But maybe I am thinking of our GMT400's
 

CactusJacked

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The axle bearing hub is a self contained unit, many 2wd vehicles have them as well. It's not locked together like the bearings on spindle held with a nut setup.
 

jrsavoie

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What is the torque spec for the half axle nut?

Torque Spec. Front Axle Hub Nut, 36mm or 35mm, 100 lbs-ft

That indicates to me that the bearing is similar in design to the GMT400 front bearings on 4x4's The half axle actually holds the bearing together, - Though I am not proof positive on the Jeeps. I would not think you would need that high a torque if it wasn't actually doing something.

I think there is another thread here or on Lost where somebody split the bearing by pulling it apart. Something I have done to a GMT400 bearing

I replaced mine, But only once. I thought they were very similar to the GMT400 bearings other than size
 
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CactusJacked

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That also happens to be within the torque range for the lug nuts, what bearings are those holding together?
Front wheel bearing hub, per rockauto.com....
TIMKEN HA599455L {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info One of our most popular parts
Fits Front; 4WD; 4-Wheel ABS
Or Front; RWD; 4-Wheel ABS; Universal Part Replaces Right Hand and Left Hand
 

jrsavoie

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That also happens to be within the torque range for the lug nuts, what bearings are those holding together?
Front wheel bearing hub, per rockauto.com....
TIMKEN HA599455L {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info One of our most popular parts
Fits Front; 4WD; 4-Wheel ABS
Or Front; RWD; 4-Wheel ABS; Universal Part Replaces Right Hand and Left Hand

Good to know.

I don't hesitate to question something If I don't know for sure. I've seen some pretty poor advice given out on forums before.

One poor kid ended up all but giving away his truck because somebody talked him into letting air into his IP to check his lift pump. He went from hard start to know start and didn't know the fix.

They should have told him to check his lift pump first.
 

Hdrider

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I have replaced my last cv joint t-case end! I am now running a front shaft from a 93 Cherokee. I had to do some machining work(lathe) on the diff yoke. Machined a bushing to press onto the yoke in the seal area to fit the liberty pinion seal. Otherwise it was a bolt in job. I pulled the yokes and shaft from my sons parts car.
 

Boomhawr

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JUST joined. I haven't read all 26 pages of this thread, so if this has already been talked about, sorry.

I just started trying to pull my front drive shaft, and as I pulled the bolts from the front end, it started to leak gear oil. I didn't see anything in the instructions here or in the manual that shows that being right. So, is there a seal in there that I'll have to replace, or what?

Thanks
 
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jrsavoie

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JUST joined. I haven't read all 26 pages of this thread, so if this has already been talked about, sorry.

I just started trying to pull my front drive shaft, and as I pulled the bolts from the front end, it started to leak gear oil. I didn't see anything in the instructions here or in the manual that shows that being right. So, is there a seal in there that I'll have to replace, or what?

Thanks

What bolts did you pull? Doesn't seem to me that any of the bolts you should be pulling would leak anything
 

Boomhawr

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The 6, 8mm bolts at the front CV joint that the instructions show. I didn't think it should be either. That's why I asked. Earlier in the thread someone was asking another person if they had any gear oil when they took theirs apart, and the other person replied that they had already drained the front diff.
 
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