First time lower ball joint removal

[Midgear]

another update...

Just ordered rack and pinion bushings for 32 bucks... MOOG parts. wewt!

wonder what the difficulty of installing these are..

 

[tjkj2002]

another update...

Just ordered rack and pinion bushings for 32 bucks... MOOG parts. wewt!

wonder what the difficulty of installing these are..

OEM ones where about $6 each,well 4 years ago they where(oh and made by MOOG).

 

[tjkj2002]

Update:

After closer inspection of the inner tie rods, they are solid and still look brand spankin new, and to look at these joints, the boot needed to be slid back (I destroyed the clamp holding the boot to the rack, replaced with a hose clamp) --

Sliding the boot back, I noticed there was quite a bit of power steering fluid collected in the boot. I'm gonna be rough here and say it was about 3 - 6 tablespoons of fluid that fell out of the boot when I slid it back.. I assume this is bad, but after realizing that this boot hasn't been touched in about 8 years- hell I don't know.. mabey this is what has collected in there over 8 years? Mabey I need a new rack and pinion?

ALSO- I noticed that my clunk remains when wiggling the steering wheel, and after closer inspection, the entire rack and pinion moves around just a hair.. not alot, but just enough to notice it's moving-

QUESTION- How do I stop it from moving? Should this power steering fluid inside the boot worry me? I didn't pull off the driver side boot, so I don't know if theres any fluid on that side.

I do know that my clunking has become almost non existant when going over bumps, that's a plus. Now I just need to get that rack and pinion to sit still and my clunking days will be over.

ANOTHER QUESTION- how in the hell does one adjust the camber angle on these things- I'm going to take it and have it aligned, but I just don't see anything that would allow adjustment. my wheels currently sit like / \ (staring at the front bumper straight on)

It doesn't pull anywhere, it travels in a straight line, they just sit all crooked lol

so- summary

1. Power steering fluid in the boot.. what the hell?


2. Rack and pinion has movement.. suggestions?

3. slight clunking remains.. this is caused by the rack and pinion movement, yes?

4. how is the camber angle adjusted on the front wheels?

1--need new R&P,no way around that.

2--the new R&P comes with new mount bushings

3--most likely

4--camber/caster is adjusted by the 2 LCA cam bolts,can not do this on your own without a alignment rack since you can not measure caster and both cam bolts control both measurements at the same time.

 

[Midgear]

1--need new R&P,no way around that.

2--the new R&P comes with new mount bushings

3--most likely

4--camber/caster is adjusted by the 2 LCA cam bolts,can not do this on your own without a alignment rack since you can not measure caster and both cam bolts control both measurements at the same time.

1. shit

2. done ordered some, oh well.

3. hopefully I'll have that problem solved tomorrow..

4. ah- ok.

what's the worst that could happen with a slow leak from the rack & pinion.. ? if it's catastrophic, I'm in deep shit- but if it just requires I keep a close eye on the fluid levels and wait till I can get a new one in, hooray.

what would you rate the difficulty of replacing the bushings? 1 / 10 ?

 

[Midgear]

update:

there's no way to get the bushings off without removing the rack and pinion.. at least that's what it looked like- I figured you just pull the bolt out the top, pop the bushing out, new one in, bolt it down, done.. NOPE- the bushings come out from the bottom, which requires lifting the rack & pinion, or sliding it back, which it did niether of.

So, I'm just gonna deal with the slight clunking- after looking at the size of those bolts, they aint comin off.. so if the worst happens and the bushings completely deteriorate and the R&P starts moving alot or I get violent clunking, I'll get a new one- but hopefully I'll have one in there before it all goes south.

now- what I'm gonna do is take the inner tie rods I ordered, along with the bushings- and just return them to the store and get the money back on them, and use that money twards a hitch.

Tomorrow should be a good day.. my hooks will arrive, getting an alignment, getting the PROPER drive shaft shipped to me, and I should be able to pick up a hitch from somewhere.. if not, I'll just get a snatch strap.

should be wheelin' again by this weekend! hump.gif

 

[tjkj2002]

They won't align it if the R&P can move side to side.

 

[Midgear]

If they tell me they can't, I'm going to ask them to do it anyways. my camber angle is OFF by a large margin and my steering wheel is sitting very crooked. I at least want those two straightened up- I'll worry about toe angle later.

It doesn't pull, even at speeds of 70+.. it just chugs along in a straight line, and pops a bit when you barrel up into a driveway.

I don't care if they warranty it or not, I just need it straightened up a bit.. but if they absolutely refuse to touch it, I'm gonna turn green and get all angry and cause all kindza ruckus.

or just go home with my crooked ass until I can afford a 300 dollar rack and pinion and 6 million dollars worth of labor.

 

[Midgear]

Update--

Got it aligned, at the worst shop in town apparently- didn't know that till I found out it took them 4 tries to get it properly aligned.. I dont even think they have any modern equipment in there- looked like they just eyeballed it. first time they said it was done I go out and my passenger wheel camber looked perfect, but the driver side wheel was still tilted in and the steering wheel was still crooked.. took it back.

The manager did the test drives.. and after 3 of them, he said they finally got it. So I go out there and it seems straight, camber looks flawless, took it for a spin. steering wheel is now off in the other direction- but it doesn't pull anywhere, so that's a plus. I reckon I can straighten the wheel myself.

MY TOW HOOKS CAME IN.. WOOT. - and my drive shaft shipped today.

next week I'm gonna pick up a hitch and get a useable wheel and go put a brand new tire on it, then skid plates. rawr!

 

[tjkj2002]

You will be messing with your toe adjustment to straighten your steering wheel,if your toe is set right leave it be and live with a off center steering wheel.You need another alignment to straighten the steering wheel,no way around that for a vehicle using R&P steering.

 

[Midgear]

ok, not gonna mess with it then-

and for clarification- my spare wheel was bent. Need another one. salvage yard wants 80 dollars for a factory steel wheel- when I can get after market wheels painted black for 70 shipped.. think I might do that.

 

[Midgear]

another update--

MY DRIVE SHAFT!! WOOT!

Finally showed up after almost a month without 4 wheel drive.. I was getting impatient.. but I survived. this one didn't come with new bolts though.. glad I saved my old ones.

No more grinding.. comes out of 4WD as soon as the lever hits 2WD.. no more backing up and spinning tire just to make sure it's out of 4WD. And the amount of GRIP I have in 4WD with mah new tires.. its wonderful.

next stop- 5 new wheels, 1 new tire, skid plates, hitch, lift, then man tires.

 

[mightybeet]

does anyone have the list of adapter sizes ya need to do the front lower ball joints?

 

[Jeepsareballin]

Lbj

Did the upper arm today. Not a lot of room to get in there. Also. Remember to let the engine cool down haha. Waiting on my dad to get here with the lbj n press. Gonna try it first with leaving it all on n just pressing the old one out n the new one in. Hopefully that will go smooth

 

[Jeepsareballin]

Well last night we found out that was impossible. You gotta pull that whole hub off. After that it gave us some problems but it came out decently. Make sure you have the right tools can't imagine getting that done last night without it

 

[Jeepsareballin]

Also to do the upper I pulled the battery battery tray and fuse box