What Oil Should I use in my kj?

[blue_kjR417]

I'm about 500 miles from a oil change in my KJ. When I bought it (2 months ago) it was about 500 miles over due for an oil change. I changed it asap and in a hurry just bought some Valvoline Max Life because my KJ has almost 85k and Max Life is supposed to be for 75k and over engines. I also swapped to a FRAM High Mileage filter too. I've been thinking about going to Full Synthetic this time so I can go longer on a change, any suggestions on brands or types for oil and filters?

Also what other liquids should I change regularly in my KJ?

 

[snowsport]

I've been using Amsoil 5W30 oil and Napa Gold oil filter (which is a Wix filter). Personally I wouldn't use Fram filters.
Other fluids to change on a regular schedule: gear oil for the diffs (Amsoil severe gear is excellent), transfer case fluid (ATF+4 or Amsoil ATF) transmission fluid (same as transfer case) antifreeze (how old is the thermostat/hoses?) power steering fluid, brake fluid. Probably forgot something.....check your owner's manual for change schedule, but I'd change the power steering fluid and brake fluid more often than they recommend....that's just my personal bias.

 

[tjkj2002]

Make sure you use the correct coolant if you change that.The KJ uses HOAT coolant,Zerex makes some it's called GO5 coolant,found mostly at Napa.Use of those so called "universal" coolants(OAT coolants,AKA Dexacool) will damage your waterpump.

 

[Atrus]

I run Mobil 1 with a Bosch filter, change every 5k.

 

[blue_kjR417]

What about Royal Purple?

I don't have a Owners Manual by the way....

 

[tjkj2002]

What about Royal Purple?

I don't have a Owners Manual by the way....

Royal Purple is okay for your diffs,not your engine.RP has high conentration of "MOLY" which sticks to metal,great for diff gears,bad for tight clearance engines like the 3.7.

Stick with Mobil1 extended performance(there true full synthetic oil) or Amsoil,Napa Gold or Purolator's PureOne oil filters.Stay away from penzoil and quakersate,might as well just put candles in your engine(they are perifin based),known as the "mechanics worst nightmare" oils.

 

[blue_kjR417]

ok well what weight would I need for gear oil? and what about my trans case oil? do i need to change it? what weight is it?

 

[tjkj2002]

ok well what weight would I need for gear oil? and what about my trans case oil? do i need to change it? what weight is it?

75w-90 F/R,or use 75w-140 in the rear if you tow,don't forget the friction modifier for the rear diff if you have the OEM TracLok.

Transmission = ATF+4 or Amsoil ATF
T-case = ATF+4 or Amsoil ATF

 

[JJsKJ]

PLMK if you need any more info on Amsoil products or a quote. I'' get it to you for the cheapest you can find.

Later, John

 

[belvedere]

Royal Purple is okay for your diffs,not your engine.RP has high conentration of "MOLY" which sticks to metal,great for diff gears,bad for tight clearance engines like the 3.7.

Stick with Mobil1 extended performance(there true full synthetic oil) or Amsoil,Napa Gold or Purolator's PureOne oil filters.Stay away from penzoil and quakersate,might as well just put candles in your engine(they are perifin based),known as the "mechanics worst nightmare" oils.

I'm sorry, but this post is so full of mis-information, I don't know where to start. The only thing I agree with is the filter recommendation.

For one, many oils contain moly, and it's just fine in the 3.7, as well as any other engine. Look through these VOAs, and you'll see moly in quite a few common oils. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=11&page=1
Here's a short primer on the use of moly in oil: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly.html

Virtually all makers of non-synthetic motor oil today use paraffinic base oil. "Parafinnic" simply refers to the type of crude; this crude can then be refined into different products: oil, gasoline, kerosene, wax, etc. The oil itself does not contain wax. Google "paraffinic motor oil", or something similar, and you'll find lots of articles explaining this.

I own a small, part-time business selling oil and lubes, so I'm kind of an oil nut. If anyone wants to learn more about oils, you should check out the BITOG forums. Along with a bunch of other oil nuts, there are some very knowledeable tribologists who hang out there, and are happy to share their knowledge.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

 

[Dave]

I don't have a Owners Manual by the way....

You don't have an owners manual in that little hidden slot above the glovebox??

 

[tjkj2002]

I'm sorry, but this post is so full of mis-information, I don't know where to start. The only thing I agree with is the filter recommendation.

For one, many oils contain moly, and it's just fine in the 3.7, as well as any other engine. Look through these VOAs, and you'll see moly in quite a few common oils. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=11&page=1
Here's a short primer on the use of moly in oil: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/moly.html

Virtually all makers of non-synthetic motor oil today use paraffinic base oil. "Parafinnic" simply refers to the type of crude; this crude can then be refined into different products: oil, gasoline, kerosene, wax, etc. The oil itself does not contain wax. Google "paraffinic motor oil", or something similar, and you'll find lots of articles explaining this.

I own a small, part-time business selling oil and lubes, so I'm kind of an oil nut. If anyone wants to learn more about oils, you should check out the BITOG forums. Along with a bunch of other oil nuts, there are some very knowledeable tribologists who hang out there, and are happy to share their knowledge.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

Guess you haven't torn apart a engine that has run penz all it's life have you? It has wax in it and it builds up all over the place inside of the engine using that crap.

 

[SDLiberty]

Royal Purple is okay for your diffs,not your engine.RP has high conentration of "MOLY" which sticks to metal,great for diff gears,bad for tight clearance engines like the 3.7.

Stick with Mobil1 extended performance(there true full synthetic oil) or Amsoil,Napa Gold or Purolator's PureOne oil filters.Stay away from penzoil and quakersate,might as well just put candles in your engine(they are perifin based),known as the "mechanics worst nightmare" oils.

I didn't know that about RP Now that i've been running that for 10,000 miles or so is there anything else i should do other than switching to Mobil1?

 

[belvedere]

I didn't know that about RP Now that i've been running that for 10,000 miles or so is there anything else i should do other than switching to Mobil1?

No need to panic. While I'm not a RP fan, it's not because it will do any harm, but rather because there are better oils for the money. Your engine is perfectly fine with the RP.

 

[belvedere]

Guess you haven't torn apart a engine that has run penz all it's life have you? It has wax in it and it builds up all over the place inside of the engine using that crap.

It's a free country, we're all free to hold whatever beliefs we choose. I just provided the references for anyone who wanted to educate themselves on motor oil facts.

 

[tjkj2002]

It's a free country, we're all free to hold whatever beliefs we choose. I just provided the references for anyone who wanted to educate themselves on motor oil facts.

Then I take that as no?

 

[belvedere]

I've seen sludged and varnished engines that have used all kinds of oils. Sludge and varnish (again, there is no wax in motor oil) have much more to do with maintenance/care than the brand of oil used. As long as an oil is SL or SM rated, it will work fine. Some oils are certainly better than others, but there is no longer any "bad" oil out there (again, as long as it is SL/SM). In fact, part of the testing to be SM rated is deposit control.

 

[67Customs]

Mobil 1 Extended Performace and a K&N oil filter.

Change every 5k.

 

[offrovering]

stay dino and keep to specs. I think 5w30 is spec from manual, 5 qts. just be sure to match specs on the back of a bottle of oil, and be good about changing it.

there are too many people spreading all kinds of gospel about one type over another, its all over the net.

I have asked for other users experiences/preferences with this engine/diff/etc. to see what has worked well and what hasnt.

without prior knowledge of what maintenance was done I would be leery about putting synthetic with high detergents and cleaning too much crud.