Front drive shaft CV

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Strikeking

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
27
Reaction score
0
Location
Bc
Hi All. New to the forum and Jeeps as well. First order of business to do ischange this torn boot on the front drive shaft. In post number #19 in the how to he asks about applying sealant to the boot side of the CV But no one ever answered. I am also wondering about this. My kit came with 2 precut gasket that were stuck together. They were both in the cap side not the boot side. Just wondering, do I seperate and use one on each side. Or double up the 2 and use on the transfer case side and then use sealant on the boot side?? What did everyone else do? I was thinking of using 1 gasket on each side as well as a small bead of ultra black. Thoughts. And is the torque on those bolts 20 ft/lbs ??Thanks very much.
 
Last edited:

1BADKJ

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2012
Messages
502
Reaction score
6
Location
Barnegat NJ
Gasket only goes on one side. I put black RTV on other side. Then I take the bolts that come with it and bolt both sides together. Then I take a hammer and roll the ends over for a nice tight perfect fit just like OE. Take the bolts out and install drive shaft.
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,456
Reaction score
3,643
Location
Southeastern Ohio
never used any type of sealer on any of the ones I did see no use to if installed the right way
 

1BADKJ

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2012
Messages
502
Reaction score
6
Location
Barnegat NJ
I did mine like OE. It never had a gasket on the other side. And I did two in one nite and neither of them had gaskets on both sides. Thought it was weird when I saw that.
 

Strikeking

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
27
Reaction score
0
Location
Bc
Ya I think you do it the right way 1badkj. I notice the boot side mating surface is flush on the cv. Where as the other end has a small recess and needs those two gaskets to fill that space. I dunno. I will try that way I think. Also do you pack the Greese into both sides of the joint? And are there any tricks to acually remove the driveshaft? What is the torque on the bolts? 20 ft/lbs?? Thank muchly.
 
Last edited:

dude1116

Full Access Member
Joined
May 31, 2011
Messages
3,373
Reaction score
13
Location
Pompton Plains, NJ
Ya I think you do it the right way 1badkj. I notice the boot side mating surface is flush on the cv. Where as the other end has a small recess and needs those two gaskets to fill that space. I dunno. I will try that way I think. Also do you pack the Greese into both sides of the joint? And are there any tricks to acually remove the driveshaft? Thank muchly.

He did mine. It's actually worked out great! I don't think you can go wrong in either case, but better safe than sorry. The silicone won't hurt a thing.
 

TwoBobsKJ

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Messages
2,637
Reaction score
18
Location
Northern Ohio
Ya I think you do it the right way 1badkj. I notice the boot side mating surface is flush on the cv. Where as the other end has a small recess and needs those two gaskets to fill that space. I dunno. I will try that way I think. Also do you pack the Greese into both sides of the joint? And are there any tricks to acually remove the driveshaft? What is the torque on the bolts? 20 ft/lbs?? Thank muchly.

Pack the grease all around the joint - use the entire tube/pack. I always use a 1/4" drive to tighten the bolts so I get them nice and snug with that ratchet and socket. Probably works out to around 20 ft/lbs but I've never put my torque wrench on it :emotions34:

You're welcome muchly :drink_nl:

Bob
 

1BADKJ

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2012
Messages
502
Reaction score
6
Location
Barnegat NJ
Pack the grease all around the joint - use the entire tube/pack. I always use a 1/4" drive to tighten the bolts so I get them nice and snug with that ratchet and socket. Probably works out to around 20 ft/lbs but I've never put my torque wrench on it :emotions34:

You're welcome muchly :drink_nl:

Bob

Yes. What he said. Pull all bolts out. Remove CV from t-case first. Push up toward the t-case to give you more room then remove CV from front diff and pull out. Do just the opposite to put it back in. Good luck.
 

Strikeking

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
27
Reaction score
0
Location
Bc
When removing the transfer case end I know u say to push up, but will I also have to pull towards the front of the jeep to compress it and get it out of that yolk? Or will it just push up?
 

Strikeking

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
27
Reaction score
0
Location
Bc
Ok thanks. So I guess there is a little bit of give in the joint to allow for this compression to take place?
 

Strikeking

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
27
Reaction score
0
Location
Bc
One more question. What is this yellow stripe painted on the CV's. at both ends. And since I will be replacing the cv at the transfer case will I have to alline these marks or get the drive shaft balanced. ??
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,456
Reaction score
3,643
Location
Southeastern Ohio
Won't have to get it balanced or anything
yellow stripes are for use when they build it
 

Strikeking

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
27
Reaction score
0
Location
Bc
Ok thanks. And should I use thread locker on the bolts when I reinstall?
 

Strikeking

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2013
Messages
27
Reaction score
0
Location
Bc
Grrrr. Can't get it loose from the front yolk. Tips?
 

Latest posts

Members online

Top