Would a Dana 30 be worth using?

tjkj2002

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No I'd like a valid reason why you think a D30 is better then a D44,valid ? so write down a valid answer.Then look it up and find the true answer about the strength difference between a D30 and D44 and compare to your answer and you will see your full of s***.
 

MSReNeGaDe

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No I'd like a valid reason why you think a D30 is better then a D44,valid ? so write down a valid answer.Then look it up and find the true answer about the strength difference between a D30 and D44 and compare to your answer and you will see your full of s***.

Who cares honestly? Nothing is bullet proof and most people don't go out and try to **** rocks with their axles

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J-Thompson

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The KJ is actually 62.5" Rear
While the XJ 30hp is 58.75"
so it's almost a 4" Difference in reality, if you dpn't believe me strip her down and measure your rear Rotor hat to Rotor hat surface where the wheel bolts up.

I figured out where you messed up
You mixed up the K & J
Rather than KJ you searched JK
Easy mistake
 

Red_KJ_666

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I figured out where you messed up
You mixed up the K & J
Rather than KJ you searched JK
Easy mistake

So I magically have a JK rear axle in My Liberty? Excellent explanation...... I have a funny sound in my exhaust to do you think my High Speed Muffler bearing is gone bad? or Could it be my Flux Capacitor? I read somewhere it could be either........
 
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u2slow

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Seems to me like a good SFA D30 from any Jeep product costs at least as much as fullsize D44 stuff. Plus the FSD44 is already setup for locking hubs in most cases. So I don't see the point of the D30 unless bolt pattern is the main attraction.

I'd like to have an OX or e-locker front and rear. That's a tall order for the stock axles. Options are endless the moment you step up to D44s.

I'd like to see a JBA steel diff in a D44 flavour. Maybe I can bootyfab something from a Ford ttb chunk. Guts can be recycled into a SFA later.

There's lots of info on Pirate4x4 on using Dana 50 and JK44 gears in conventional HP44/D44 housings.
 
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J-Thompson

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Seems to me like a good SFA D30 from any Jeep product costs at least as much as fullsize D44 stuff. Plus the FSD44 is already setup for locking hubs in most cases. So I don't see the point of the D30 unless bolt pattern is the main attraction.

I'd like to have an OX or e-locker front and rear. That's a tall order for the stock axles. Options are endless the moment you step up to D44s.

I'd like to see a JBA steel diff in a D44 flavour. Maybe I can bootyfab something from a Ford ttb chunk. Guts can be recycled into a SFA later.

There's lots of info on Pirate4x4 on using Dana 50 and JK44 gears in conventional HP44/D44 housings.

What do you mean by "a tall order for stock axles"
I have a bone stock TJ Dana 30
With 3.73's and an ARB pulling tires that are 32.5" tall
and have had all 4 smoking trying to climb a "stair step"
I can not see them being under any more stress than
that
Oh wait yes I can
ZJ with a 5.7L V8
33" tall Truxs MT's and 4.56 gears
ARB's front and rear ,did have a TJ 44 in the rear
but "stock" 30 up front
The axles were from a "donor" TJ
 

MSReNeGaDe

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I mean the stock axles... D30A IFS and 8.25".
Just seems to me it doesn't cost anything extra to go to D44 vs D30.

Why would you use a part from a significantly older vehicle? There really isn't much thought for me. 40 year old axle vs 10 year old axle.

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tjkj2002

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Why would you use a part from a significantly older vehicle? There really isn't much thought for me. 40 year old axle vs 10 year old axle.

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My front HP44 is 37 years old,the tubes are straight,but then again 1/2" thick DOM can take a beating.The JK's D44 is a HP diff but not a true D44,does not share one thing with any other D44 besides the diff cover and it's parts demand a higher cost then say a 30-40 year old HP44.Your front bearings are what $150-$250 per side,mine are $80 for the complete set and serviceable.

As the they say "they don't build them like they used to".


Just look at some of the most sought after front diffs,the kingpin HP60's,there far from new and a bone stock one starts at about $1000 selling price.The most sought after rear axle for ********* wheelers is the C14 and that axle is old also,cheap to buy(usually $50-$100 for complete diff),and untill you start running 500+HP on 44"+ tires you can generally run the stock axles with gears and lockers with zero issues.
 

MSReNeGaDe

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My front HP44 is 37 years old,the tubes are straight,but then again 1/2" thick DOM can take a beating.The JK's D44 is a HP diff but not a true D44,does not share one thing with any other D44 besides the diff cover and it's parts demand a higher cost then say a 30-40 year old HP44.Your front bearings are what $150-$250 per side,mine are $80 for the complete set and serviceable.

As the they say "they don't build them like they used to".


Just look at some of the most sought after front diffs,the kingpin HP60's,there far from new and a bone stock one starts at about $1000 selling price.The most sought after rear axle for ********* wheelers is the C14 and that axle is old also,cheap to buy(usually $50-$100 for complete diff),and untill you start running 500+HP on 44"+ tires you can generally run the stock axles with gears and lockers with zero issues.

Again who cares about front bearings? I guess i will in 3-4 years if they start to go out, but i doubt it.

And your right they don't build them like they used to. Its call progress.

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tjkj2002

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Again who cares about front bearings? I guess i will in 3-4 years if they start to go out, but i doubt it.

And your right they don't build them like they used to. Its call progress.

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Running those bigger tires you'll be changing then alot sooner.

If you call weak unit bearings and only 1/4" thick axle tubes progress you got alot to learn,heck even running ball joints is a major step backwards in the strength department.It's sad that JK 44's require a couple hundred dollars in mods(sleeve kits + labor) just to hang with a 30+ year old stock housing like the HP44('75-'78) in the strength department.

Why the thinner tubes,unit bearings,and ball joints in new axles? The bean counters and keeping the axle lighter for improved mpg's due to federal reg's that are ever increasing.


Go and plaster your opinions on Pirate,I need a good laugh.
 

MSReNeGaDe

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Running those bigger tires you'll be changing then alot sooner.

If you call weak unit bearings and only 1/4" thick axle tubes progress you got alot to learn,heck even running ball joints is a major step backwards in the strength department.It's sad that JK 44's require a couple hundred dollars in mods(sleeve kits + labor) just to hang with a 30+ year old stock housing like the HP44('75-'78) in the strength department.

Why the thinner tubes,unit bearings,and ball joints in new axles? The bean counters and keeping the axle lighter for improved mpg's due to federal reg's that are ever increasing.


Go and plaster your opinions on Pirate,I need a good laugh.

Piarate has alot of ****** bags. But go tell the how a kj is better than xj and see if they ever take a post of yours seriously again. The response depends on where you go. Dont be a dick. Your opinions as well as mine were noted by the poster, you don't have to keep restating them. Kinda makes you look immature

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J-Thompson

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I am still confused
I keep hearing 1 story of "my great 44 build"
But never the practical side
the fact that parts are much more readily available
for a TJ Dana 30 or even better an XJ 30 ,high pinion
The fact that the TJ track width is with in 1" of the KJ
Trust me i measured
The fact that when wheelin with a group if you should
break something and not have a spare some one else
probably will ,a stock part that was up graded

Fine you have the fancy all out best built rig ever to hit
the trail
You did spend more on the up grades then I did on
the purchase and build up of my rig
and there is no place you can go on 35's I can not go
on 33's
Say what you want I don't have to drive mine to work
in the morning ,you do
See the way I look at things is with a bit of common sense
it is a lot like **** polishing ,buff it all you want it is still
a **** and no body likes a ****
I have come to terms with the fact that my rig is a ****
But I know that she will rock a trail like I want it to
So keep you $10K axle
I will take my $200 **** and replace it 50 times
But that is 50 time I pushed it to the limit
 

tjkj2002

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I am still confused
I keep hearing 1 story of "my great 44 build"
But never the practical side
the fact that parts are much more readily available
for a TJ Dana 30 or even better an XJ 30 ,high pinion
The fact that the TJ track width is with in 1" of the KJ
Trust me i measured
The fact that when wheelin with a group if you should
break something and not have a spare some one else
probably will ,a stock part that was up graded

Fine you have the fancy all out best built rig ever to hit
the trail
You did spend more on the up grades then I did on
the purchase and build up of my rig
and there is no place you can go on 35's I can not go
on 33's
Say what you want I don't have to drive mine to work
in the morning ,you do
See the way I look at things is with a bit of common sense
it is a lot like **** polishing ,buff it all you want it is still
a **** and no body likes a ****
I have come to terms with the fact that my rig is a ****
But I know that she will rock a trail like I want it to
So keep you $10K axle
I will take my $200 **** and replace it 50 times
But that is 50 time I pushed it to the limit
Still can not see how you think D30 parts are any more available then a D44(not a TJ/JK 44).Considering there was 3 automakers using interchangeable parts for the most part for over 40 years.Sure the D30 has no shortage of parts available but by no means more or easier then a older D44,not to mention cost more then a D44.
 
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