A few extra notes about the Left Engine Mount replacement. I forgot to say the starter was removed (not too hard...be sure your battery is disconnected and be aware of the steel bracket that holds the harness in place). it is essential to remove the Oil Filter to access the front bolts (plus that stupid drain thingy puzzle of death). The two front mounting bolts, which seem totally impossible to reach or see are actually easy to access near the oil filter with an 18" long extension and a universal (15mm).
Plus (you're gunna hate this...) lower the differential. The front shaft Pinion Companion flange is totally in the way. I was tempted to take it off with a 1 1/8" socket but read it needs a puller so decided not to. But, the diff part is not as bad as it seems, only two bolts with welded nuts just behind the axle boots, allows the entire Diff to neatly rotate downward and the companion flange approaches the frame. Rotating the diff made it a cinch! With the area totally open the motor mount came right out (yep it was cracked all around) and the new one went right back in.
Then the fun begins, be sure your cat donut is replaced and the flanges are clean and smooth. My donut gasket literally tore in half like a sliced bagel, stretching the mesh with it, leaving the halves fused to the flanges. Since my heat blanket was disintegrating and the dremel asbestos dust from grinding out the donut was gunna kill me, I just ordered a new cat online. Be sure to buy one with heat shields! Totally worth it but cheaper if you can save your old one. Advised to use a new V-groove flange clamp (debur the flange for flush contact) and be sure to put the clamp back on so that you can properly access the 10mm nut with a ratcheting through-hole wrench (maybe from above looks easier). If it is not tight, you'll have an exhaust leak and noise. Don't confuse your O2 sensors. Once everything was tight and back in place, driving it was noticeably smoother and quieter (seat of the pants observation).
I hope this helps.