Whats the least amount of lift out of OME/Bilstein setup?

[blue_kjR417]

Hey fellas, I'm trying to crack down and save the money to finally upgrade to the OME springs all around and some Bilstein shocks and struts. Because my stock suspension is sagging and bounces like a basketball when I hit bumps on the highway. The only thing is I only have 20k miles on my BFG AT's and expect to get many more miles out of them so I don't plan on swapping anytime soon even if lifted, which is fine other than they're 70's not 75's. So as rare as it is I want this lift for its strength and ride of the suspension not neccesarrily the height of it right now lol or atleast til I can buy new tires. So if I don't do a clevis lift, leave out my front shims from Boiler, and maybe leave one rear coil isolator on each side if not remove them all. What kind of height and I looking at? Even with only the lift provide by the new coils, do you guys think my 245/70s will look too small?

 

[tommudd]

last three lifts that I have done here the guys are still running 245-70s on theirs until time to swap out
All three I set them up with 927s front and JBA top plates and 1/8 inch clevis. All look OK.
I'll try and remember to post up some pictures of them tomorrow

 

[blue_kjR417]

last three lifts that I have done here the guys are still running 245-70s on theirs until time to swap out
All three I set them up with 927s front and JBA top plates and 1/8 inch clevis. All look OK.
I'll try and remember to post up some pictures of them tomorrow

lol what do you mean by OK? more towards the good or the mediocre ok?

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Tim's(LibertyTC) tires are 245-65-17's and although not as tall
as 245-75-16's, they look pretty!

 

[LibertyTC]

The 245 70's will look fine with basic lift (OME 927 & Bilstien) 22inches settled to 21.5
This is what I looked like right after install with my Silent armors 245-65-17
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With extra clevis and Isolator up front was addressed, Bigger tires would look better.
Now at 22.75 inches up front (hub to flare)
39333[/ATTACH]"]

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Next is JBA upper lifted 4.5 A-Arms (on order) to get alignment in spec, as going taller than basic lift, pretty much necessitates new arms.
Once I decide on what tires to go with, it probably wont be too much longer before 245-75R-17 hit the trails, and sell the used silent armors.

 

[blue_kjR417]

The 245 70's will look fine with basic lift (OME 927 & Bilstien) 22inches settled to 21.5
This is what I looked like right after install with my Silent armors 245-65-17
39335[/ATTACH]"]

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With extra clevis and Isolator up front was addressed, Bigger tires would look better.
Now at 22.75 inches up front (hub to flare)
39337[/ATTACH]"]

You must be registered for see images attach

Next is JBA upper lifted 4.5 A-Arms (on order) to get alignment in spec, as going taller than basic lift, pretty much necessitates new arms.
Once I decide on what tires to go with, it probably wont be too much longer before 245-75R-17 hit the trails, and sell the used silent armors.

Those look fine and actually beings 17's the 65's are equal to my 70's on 16's so I'll just leave off my shims and not do a clevis lift and leave out my isolators and it'll look fine I presume. Thanks for the pics TC!

 

[blue_kjR417]

Also I'm going to make my own rear bump stop extensions. I have some a really thick (1.5")nylon plastic sheet like the cutting board material some have talked about making front strut shims out of, and I was wondering how tall the bumpstop extensions need to be. I will be mounting them to the bracket the coil sets on on the axel, like most do the hockey pucks.

 

[LibertyTC]

The rear has one extra isolator per side. It seems to help dampen road vibes as in 1st pic.
AS far as the front goes I had the 3/8 steel spacers in....
The shop forgot to install only the bottom iso, and both isolators are required. Having the bottom iso installed would have made the front end more level in the first photo.
I just used the ole hockey pucks (2) per side in rear.
I think without clevis & Shims, you will be fine looking in your tire & stock A-Arm dept.
Just be sure to use both isolators with the coils in front.

 

[blue_kjR417]

The rear has one extra isolator per side. It seems to help dampen road vibes as in 1st pic.
AS far as the front goes I had the 3/8 steel spacers in....
The shop forgot to install only the bottom iso, and both isolators are required. Having the bottom iso installed would have made the front end more level in the first photo.
I just used the ole hockey pucks (2) per side in rear.
I think without clevis & Shims, you will be fine looking in your tire & stock A-Arm dept.
Just be sure to use both isolators with the coils in front.

I'm not sure what you're talking about, where are the isolators in the front?

 

[Jo6pak]

Others are using the two-puck set-up. which means the rear bumpstops would be about 2" thick and 3" diameter.

 

[blue_kjR417]

Others are using the two-puck set-up. which means the rear bumpstops would be about 2" thick and 3" diameter.

awesome thanks!

 

[huntbuggy]

I'm not sure what you're talking about, where are the isolators in the front?

They're to go inside the coilover spring/shock assembly in the front. Tim had the misfortune of not having some go in and ended up having to go back to the shop. Even though mine were a bit crushed, I just re-used the old ones I pulled out of the stock fronts - yours should be fine in an 05.

Would also think twice about removing the rear isos completely, that's a lot of metal on metal and not so good. You'll have a bit of rake but Liberties come with rake - and IMHO they look good that way. The springs will also settle in a bit, mine are starting already and my lift and bumper mods aren't even outta the garage...

 

[LibertyTC]

The isolators in the front are located at the top & bottom of the front spring each side.
It was necessary to go back to shop to have them install the lower isolator they forgot, that should have been moved over from the stock shock assembly.
I now have rubber isolator in top and bottom of the front springs. Photos show what was going on, you need both iso's.
39350[/ATTACH]"]

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This is what the front rubber isolators look like:
39352[/ATTACH]"]

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For Rear Bumpstops I used two hockey pucks I siliconed together, drilled using 1/4 inch bolt through spring perch.
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[blue_kjR417]

The isolators in the front are located at the top & bottom of the front spring each side.
It was necessary to go back to shop to have them install the lower isolator they forgot, that should have been moved over from the stock shock assembly.
I now have rubber isolator in top and bottom of the front springs. Photos show what was going on, you need both iso's.
39356[/ATTACH]"]

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This is what the front rubber isolators look like:
39358[/ATTACH]"]

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For Rear Bumpstops I used two hockey pucks I siliconed together, drilled using 1/4 inch bolt through spring perch.
39360[/ATTACH]"]

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Oh!!!! I see lol I lve seen those there before just didn't realize what you meant!

 

[LibertyTC]

Ya I figured that would help.
So doing a basic lift, OME springs without top plate 3/8 steel Boiler spacer, and clevis lift generally saves you from having to buy the JBA 4.5 upper control arms. The alignment will be close.
However since I added the the silver conduits, (rings) located below the yellow shock at clevis, now I am really tall in the front and spring is hitting (bang) on springs.
39362[/ATTACH]"]

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The new 4.5 A-Arms I am now waiting for and will solve this problem by the new arm & ball joint being properly aligned.

 

[blue_kjR417]

Ya I figured that would help.
So doing a basic lift, OME springs without top plate 3/8 steel Boiler spacer, and clevis lift generally saves you from having to buy the JBA 4.5 upper control arms. The alignment will be close.
However since I added the the silver conduits, (rings) located below the yellow shock at clevis, now I am really tall in the front and spring is hitting (bang) on springs.
39364[/ATTACH]"]

You must be registered for see images attach

The new 4.5 A-Arms I am now waiting for and will solve this problem by the new arm & ball joint being properly aligned.

Yeah I will just leave out my shims and not do a clevis and if my tires wear out while I'm still driving this rig I'll upgrade to some 245/75's put the shims back in and do a clevis and get some a arms from jba.

 

[Jo6pak]

Yeah I will just leave out my shims and not do a clevis and if my tires wear out while I'm still driving this rig I'll upgrade to some 245/75's put the shims back in and do a clevis and get some a arms from jba.

Seems that you have basically the same plan as I do. I need to replace my suspension also, and am also looking to stick with 29.5" tires for now.

 

[blue_kjR417]

They're to go inside the coilover spring/shock assembly in the front. Tim had the misfortune of not having some go in and ended up having to go back to the shop. Even though mine were a bit crushed, I just re-used the old ones I pulled out of the stock fronts - yours should be fine in an 05.

Would also think twice about removing the rear isos completely, that's a lot of metal on metal and not so good. You'll have a bit of rake but Liberties come with rake - and IMHO they look good that way. The springs will also settle in a bit, mine are starting already and my lift and bumper mods aren't even outta the garage...

Well... See I have 3 upper coil spring isolators on each side of my liberty because I has a WesWay lift installed and I simply meant I'll be leaving out the two additional ones that I added.

Seems that you have basically the same plan as I do. I need to replace my suspension also, and am also looking to stick with 29.5" tires for now.

Yep pretty much!