What did you do to your jeep today?

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seafish

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My 05 KJ also has center console switches for the windows.

That said, on my 05 Ram, when the DS window would go down but not up, it turned out to be a fatigued wire in the A pillar to door rubber wire loom. All the wires in the loom LOOKED fine but ONLY the wire insulation was holding the wire together, and I could FEEL that some of the wires at one point were stiff from fatigue … when I bent that point to take a closer look at it, the insulation broke as well and I could see that the wire itself had been broken for a while…the ends touching INSIDE the insulation passed enough current to let the motor roll the window down, but NOT enough current to roll it back up.
 
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duderz7

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Got home about 6, stopping at Lowes on the way for some plumbing bits.For whatever reason, the builder didn't put an overboard drain line from the secondary drain pan in my house. Just a float switch, which went bad.

Got home, went to roll up the windows. Drivers wouldn't go up. Because of course not, I had plans.. I assumed it was the regulator (would go down but not up, so at the least, I am tearing the panel off to get it up. And good luck with that if it's actually bad.

Looked at my history, just replaced this thing 11 months ago. 1 year warranty - good luck with that as an Amazon purchase.

Looked locally, found a Dorman part. Went and bought it. Caught a sale at Advance, so 97 bucks.

Get home, put the new one in... Same problem. SOB! (that ain't crying, kids...)

What I SHOULD HAVE DONE is, when I took the panel off, jumper some voltage over disconnected motor pigtail. Either jump 12v from the battery, or 20v from a drill battery. I'd have seen that the motor indeed DID go up.

So, long story short, the issue is the switch. I have an 05 Renegade, so my switches are in the console. Easy to get out, but I need to know what trim level they came in. Did all Renegade have the console mounted switches, or all 05 KJs?
My '05 sport has console switches, I think they all do. Try taking the switch apart and cleaning it. I've had good luck with that on other vehicles, haven't had to do it on the Jeep.
 

KJowner

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Got home about 6, stopping at Lowes on the way for some plumbing bits.For whatever reason, the builder didn't put an overboard drain line from the secondary drain pan in my house. Just a float switch, which went bad.

Got home, went to roll up the windows. Drivers wouldn't go up. Because of course not, I had plans.. I assumed it was the regulator (would go down but not up, so at the least, I am tearing the panel off to get it up. And good luck with that if it's actually bad.

Looked at my history, just replaced this thing 11 months ago. 1 year warranty - good luck with that as an Amazon purchase.

Looked locally, found a Dorman part. Went and bought it. Caught a sale at Advance, so 97 bucks.

Get home, put the new one in... Same problem. SOB! (that ain't crying, kids...)

What I SHOULD HAVE DONE is, when I took the panel off, jumper some voltage over disconnected motor pigtail. Either jump 12v from the battery, or 20v from a drill battery. I'd have seen that the motor indeed DID go up.

So, long story short, the issue is the switch. I have an 05 Renegade, so my switches are in the console. Easy to get out, but I need to know what trim level they came in. Did all Renegade have the console mounted switches, or all 05 KJs?
All the earlier KJs have the centre mounted window switches.
 

Brendon Holt

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Long drive. Got out with the Jeep running at one point. Heard that stupid rattle again from the AC compressor (I think). It's always alarming when you hear it at first it sounds like some really bad valve noise or something. Not sure of my plan of attack on this one. I need to run the Jeep without the belt to make sure it's not something else but I'm pretty positive it's the compressor. It sounds pretty noisy inside using a stethoscope.

I thought it was the replacement tensioner at first but I put the old one back on with new pulleys and it still makes the noise. I guess it's possible that both the old tensioner and the new tensioner are/were bad, but the belt feels sufficiently tight. At least with the old tensioner it actually felt like it wasn't holding proper tension on the belt.
 

Brendon Holt

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Long drive. Got out with the Jeep running at one point. Heard that stupid rattle again from the AC compressor (I think). It's always alarming when you hear it at first it sounds like some really bad valve noise or something. Not sure of my plan of attack on this one. I need to run the Jeep without the belt to make sure it's not something else but I'm pretty positive it's the compressor. It sounds pretty noisy inside using a stethoscope.

I thought it was the replacement tensioner at first but I put the old one back on with new pulleys and it still makes the noise. I guess it's possible that both the old tensioner and the new tensioner are/were bad, but the belt feels sufficiently tight. At least with the old tensioner it actually felt like it wasn't holding proper tension on the belt.

Ran it without the belt, the noise is still there so that rules out any of the accessory drive but also makes it a more serious issue now. Yay
 

Brendon Holt

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Think the V6 has timing chains so probably worn & rattling until the tensioner pumps up. Definitely worth looking at as a failure will be catastrophic.
This was my guess as well. It does rattle for a second at startup too until oil pressure builds. And the fact that it quiets down when you rev the engine leads me to think it's something to do with the timing chain system
 

burntkat

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This was my guess as well. It does rattle for a second at startup too until oil pressure builds. And the fact that it quiets down when you rev the engine leads me to think it's something to do with the timing chain system
The guides are known to fail rather early, judging from what my son told me. He's the pro wrench who rebuilt mine, so I have no reason to doubt his word. Cloyes timing set comes with new guides. The guide on the PS of the motor, on the crank chain, appears to be the worst offender. Mine was at the bottom of the timing cover.

Replacement isn't too hard. It can be done in a long weekend if you have experience wrenching. Of course you will want to verify mechanical timing when you do this. Just follow the FSM.
 

burntkat

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Ordered the switch for my windows. 40 bones on RA, with shipping to get it here by Friday. Not too bad.
Stewed in the jeep on the way to and from work. Rear windows don't work because I have a pushed pin in the rear switch. So I'm down to the PSF Window and the sunroof. Basically, no airflow at all. And of course rhe AC doesn't work.
 

Brendon Holt

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The guides are known to fail rather early, judging from what my son told me. He's the pro wrench who rebuilt mine, so I have no reason to doubt his word. Cloyes timing set comes with new guides. The guide on the PS of the motor, on the crank chain, appears to be the worst offender. Mine was at the bottom of the timing cover.

Replacement isn't too hard. It can be done in a long weekend if you have experience wrenching. Of course you will want to verify mechanical timing when you do this. Just follow the FSM.

I'm undecided on if I'll tackle this myself, tbh. I can do a fair bit of stuff myself but I've never dug in to engine internals. I think I probably COULD do it, but it also stresses me out, lmao
 

Gyro

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Got my Jeep back on the road after a month of waiting for parts and appointments.
New 2927's + KYB shocks on the front.(old 2927 broke on P side and blew shock)
Swaybar bushes and links.
Outer Tie rod ends,lower ball joints.
5 tire rotation.
Wheel alignment.
Oil+filter, air filter change.
Good cleaning inside and glass all around.
2 year road inspection next week.

Add to the list above front upper ball joints and it passed inspection today.
And it just rolled over 115,000 kms at 18 years old.

Gyro
 

lfhoward

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Got my Jeep back on the road after a month of waiting for parts and appointments.
New 2927's + KYB shocks on the front.(old 2927 broke on P side and blew shock)
Swaybar bushes and links.
Outer Tie rod ends,lower ball joints.
5 tire rotation.
Wheel alignment.
Oil+filter, air filter change.
Good cleaning inside and glass all around.
2 year road inspection next week.

Add to the list above front upper ball joints and it passed inspection today.
And it just rolled over 115,000 kms at 18 years old.

Gyro
Nice work Gyro.
 

burntkat

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Replaced the center console window switches. Only three screws involved. Barely required a screwdriver. A 3 minute evolution, two of which was testing after plugging in the windows, and reassembly.
Nice to have a crossbreeze in the jeep again, lacking AC.
 

lfhoward

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Because Jeepy has a bad axle seal and has quite the leak…

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I dropped the skid plate today to check the level of diff oil. You can see the fill plug in this photo.

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I put a finger in the fill hole and the fluid level is within about 1/4” from the bottom of the hole. Not too bad yet. I was worried it was much lower. So that’s good news.

However … this floppy fragment of rubber was sitting on the skid plate.

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The front bushing on the diff seems to be the source. The bushing is so bad you can see light through it!

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Just another reason to drop this front diff soon and regear it! (And press in new bushings.)
 
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