Upgrading the front Drive Shaft...

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bigBlue

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i just lost my drive shaft too. i had this harmonic bump coming from the front end for the last 20k miles. it took 5 shops and many hours of diagnostic to figure out its the front shaft. apparently its b/c its a continuous velocity shaft, and according to the mechanic, ford had lots of problems with this for the past 20 years, starting back with the broncho II's. now its the jeeps that have this problem. I have a drive shaft shop that will do a rebuild for about $100. They say they get this problem all the time and that its an easy reman job.
 

Powerslave

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You CAN use a SILICONE spray to protect the CV boots; to keep them pliable, to help prevent premature dry-rot and cracking. Do not use an OIL base, that will attract dirt and dust, whereas the Silicone spray will not. I have been using silicone sprays for keeping door seals from wearing and sticking in the winter, power steering boots, and CV boots. I have never, EVER had a CV boot fail, EVER. Again, my Avenger, 9 years old, 150K+ miles, all original, I did this stuff.

Nothing will stop a tear from road debris, but, you can help prevent the dry-rot, cracking, and just plain old falling apart. If you have to replace them, then use Caravelle CV Boots, and even they recommend spraying it with Silicone, to help it remain flexible as it ages. Any rubber that starts to dry up, will eventually fail. It protects rubber and gaskets from the crazing (a surface effect on rubber articles characterized by multitudinous cracks). It doesn't contain solvents, so it does not indent rubber and plastic materials.

In my opinion (IMO), it's SAFE to spray on CV boots, and power rack end boots. I have been doing it for 20+ years, never had a CV boot, or OTHER boot failure. My door and trunk seals have never had to be replaced. I learned this from my Grandfather (along with a smoke screen device, but that's another story).
 

tjkj2002

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You CAN use a SILICONE spray to protect the CV boots; to keep them pliable, to help prevent premature dry-rot and cracking. Do not use an OIL base, that will attract dirt and dust, whereas the Silicone spray will not. I have been using silicone sprays for keeping door seals from wearing and sticking in the winter, power steering boots, and CV boots. I have never, EVER had a CV boot fail, EVER. Again, my Avenger, 9 years old, 150K+ miles, all original, I did this stuff.

Nothing will stop a tear from road debris, but, you can help prevent the dry-rot, cracking, and just plain old falling apart. If you have to replace them, then use Caravelle CV Boots, and even they recommend spraying it with Silicone, to help it remain flexible as it ages. Any rubber that starts to dry up, will eventually fail. It protects rubber and gaskets from the crazing (a surface effect on rubber articles characterized by multitudinous cracks). It doesn't contain solvents, so it does not indent rubber and plastic materials.

In my opinion (IMO), it's SAFE to spray on CV boots, and power rack end boots. I have been doing it for 20+ years, never had a CV boot, or OTHER boot failure. My door and trunk seals have never had to be replaced. I learned this from my Grandfather (along with a smoke screen device, but that's another story).
As long as you never venture off the pavement it's fine,that stuff will kill your CV boots if you offroad.If you actually offroad your KJ just keep the boots clean often with just soap and water.
 

ShafferNY

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You CAN use a SILICONE spray to protect the CV boots; to keep them pliable, to help prevent premature dry-rot and cracking. Do not use an OIL base, that will attract dirt and dust, whereas the Silicone spray will not. I have been using silicone sprays for keeping door seals from wearing and sticking in the winter, power steering boots, and CV boots. I have never, EVER had a CV boot fail, EVER. Again, my Avenger, 9 years old, 150K+ miles, all original, I did this stuff.

Nothing will stop a tear from road debris, but, you can help prevent the dry-rot, cracking, and just plain old falling apart. If you have to replace them, then use Caravelle CV Boots, and even they recommend spraying it with Silicone, to help it remain flexible as it ages. Any rubber that starts to dry up, will eventually fail. It protects rubber and gaskets from the crazing (a surface effect on rubber articles characterized by multitudinous cracks). It doesn't contain solvents, so it does not indent rubber and plastic materials.

In my opinion (IMO), it's SAFE to spray on CV boots, and power rack end boots. I have been doing it for 20+ years, never had a CV boot, or OTHER boot failure. My door and trunk seals have never had to be replaced. I learned this from my Grandfather (along with a smoke screen device, but that's another story).

I agree with this 100%. I've been sparying my door seals for years.

As long as you wipe off the excess, It doesn't leave the rubber wet enough to collect anything.
 

J-Thompson

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I dont put any thing on my CV boots
never have never will
I have had booth boots rip ,booth from sticks and booth under warranty ,booth shafts replaced
I will tell you this when the rip you will have a mess that you will not ever clean up and all kinds of dust and dirt will get in them
them being the folds in the boots
 

jnaut

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I'm not sure abut WD40. I do know that silicone will keep rubber pliable. It's worked for me so far.
Bruce

I would imagine that Amorall would also be effective in keep boots protected from oxidation.
 

Ry' N Jen

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I use silicon on my cv boots as well. Have been since the early 1980's and I do off road as well as rally a FWD car and it's has a set of cv boots that are original 1976!
Yeah, I've torn, ripped, shreaded cv boots, but never had one fail because of silicon spray.
As far as them attracting grunge off road, they do, but because they were sprayed they hose off easily and then are spotlessly clean!
I also spray my wheel well plastic liners with silicon or WD40. Hose off and they are looking good as new and clean!
 

Powerslave

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I would not use WD-40 either, but I have no problem with silicone...

"WD-40" literally stands for "Water Displacement, 40th attempt." The inventor, Norm Larsen, was trying to make a formula to help prevent corrosion, which is done by displacing water. Well, he perfected the formula for it on his 40th try.
 

Ry' N Jen

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I would not use WD-40 either, but I have no problem with silicone...

"WD-40" literally stands for "Water Displacement, 40th attempt." The inventor, Norm Larsen, was trying to make a formula to help prevent corrosion, which is done by displacing water. Well, he perfected the formula for it on his 40th try.

Thats an interesting bit of trivia Powerslave!
 

Blue KJ in PA

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Yeah it was a little company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry in the early 50's. It was first used to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion. So it was meant to be sprayed on metal to prevent rust and it has the side benefit of helping degrease and slightly help loosen stuck fasteners.
 

damon1122

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I had the same problem and ended up buying an OEM shaft since I couldn't find a shop in my area confident enough to fab one up for me.

Does anybody know where I can get the part in the circle?

You must be registered for see images attach


the one that connects to the front diff,
don't iven know how it's called..:eek:




We sell complete drive shafts with spicer U-joints, fully balanced and ready to bolt in, also sell just the 6 bolt flanges. visit us at http://alldrivelines.com/Jeep.html
 

tjkj2002

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Original Bigfoot

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Do not buy,the wrong type of driveshaft for the front of a KJ,will cause issue in the long run.

Read up.............
Pirate4x4.Com - Extreme Four Wheel Drive

I am curious why you think this is the wrong type of driveshaft? I'm not trying to be snide, I really am curious because I've been running our 2002 Liberty with no front driveshaft for several months and don't want to replace it with another weak factory part, so I'm looking at options.

The driveshaft angles on the front of a Liberty are far less than the angles on the stubby little driveshaft on the back of my Wrangler, which are standard U-joints and have never failed yet. And to confuse the issue further, later years of Liberty, Jeep switched to U-joints, which tells me they recognized their mistake eventually and decided to replace the throw-away driveshaft with a servicable part.

I'm interested in hearing your take.
 
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