Transmission Issues & Questions

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gadaddy

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Good morning fine people of the KJ General Discussion Forum

I have a 2003 Liberty Sport with the 3.7 L V6. This Liberty has 198,000+ miles. Here is the issue. The transmission is an automatic and when going from (what I believe is) 2cnd gear into 3rd the transmission will hesitate or slip before going into gear. This usually occurs around 45 mph. It comes out of 2cnd gear, revs a little and then slips into 3rd. Seems to have no other issues. Downshifts fine. It doesn't seem to have any issues at all with the OD switched off. It hasn't displayed any codes so far. First thing, checked the fluid. I was surprised to see that the fluid was about an inch over the full mark. Checked while hot, level, and running.

My wife bought it used before we were together so I don't know the mileage when she purchased it. I have never serviced the transmission myself. Here are the questions. Does it sound like I have a "major" transmission issue or does it sound like a fluid change (pan drop, change fluid and filter) may solve my issue? Second, I would like to go back with a synthetic fluid and then do another change down the road. Is this a good idea? Also, any idea what the torque values are on those pan bolts? Thanks for any advice. This forum ROCKS!
 
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tjkj2002

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Check the fluid level when hot and running with the trans in "N".


As far as being serviced when it was a fleet vehicle I highly doubt it.Fleet vehicles get the bare min just to keep them running till they sell them off in a few years.I deal with fleet accounts daily and they do not do any schedule maintenance unless that system failed.Heck they won't even align the vehicles and most have plans for oil changes every 10k+.
 

Hedsic

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My dad always told me that if a vehicle is listed as a Fleet vehicle or Demo then to stay far far away from it.

If they don't change the oil but every 10k miles and do no maintenance on them that would explain why he always said that lol
 

tjkj2002

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My dad always told me that if a vehicle is listed as a Fleet vehicle or Demo then to stay far far away from it.

If they don't change the oil but every 10k miles and do no maintenance on them that would explain why he always said that lol
Just yesterday had a '12 F150 with 115k on it and they would not change the plugs(due at 60k) but wanted the air filter changed that was clean as a whistle.They also would not replace the battery that was testing marginal,the driver states he had to be jumped started a few times but the fleet company will not replace the battery till it tests at less then 50% rated CCA's.




The only good thing about fleet accounts is they will fix major issues(already failed) like failed cats,brakes,ball joints,and any leaks but will not do any scheduled maintenance.
 

CzarKJ

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When I ran a fleet vehicle they were very good about preventative maintenance. Of course I was running radioactive material so that may have been the difference.:33:
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Be sure to use ONLY Mopar-spec ATF+4 trans fluid. Anything else will destroy the ****** quickly. A fluid flush might do the trick but I'm guessing one of the clutch packs is going or is already bad. May not throw a code until it gets really bad but slipping between gears is not good. Take it to a good trans shop and have them drive it with their scanner plugged in and get the CVI (Clutch Volume Index) numbers. They'll have the ranges for each of the clutch packs; if the numbers are out of range it means the clutch pack(s) are bad and you need a rebuild.

As for the pan bolts...I'd say the torque value is "snug." They don't require a lot of oomph to seat the pan.

Bob
 

02blue

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As for the pan bolts...I'd say the torque value is "snug." They don't require a lot of oomph to seat the pan.

Bob

Like Bob said snug is good enough. I've got the 45rfe and pan bolt torque is only 105 in/lbs. Even if you have the 42RLE it's probably right around there. I have to replace my pan next time I service mine cause I'm tired of the slight drip I've had since I got it cause the PO torqued the crap out of them and distorted the pan. :yucky:
 

gadaddy

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Alright, here is an update. I serviced this transmission yesterday. Dropped the pan, drained the fluid, replaced filter, gasket, cleaned everything up and put it back together. Re-filled with 4 quarts of Castrol Transmax ATF +4. So... Still have the same issue.

This transmission feels great otherwise. I'm guessing that this is occurring while changing from 3rd gear into Overdrive. I can put it in low and manually shift to drive with no problems. I also don't have any issues if I switch the Overdrive off. Could this be a solenoid issue? I really don't want to have this transmission rebuilt. Any thoughts? Thanks again.
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Alright, here is an update. I serviced this transmission yesterday. Dropped the pan, drained the fluid, replaced filter, gasket, cleaned everything up and put it back together. Re-filled with 4 quarts of Castrol Transmax ATF +4. So... Still have the same issue.

This transmission feels great otherwise. I'm guessing that this is occurring while changing from 3rd gear into Overdrive. I can put it in low and manually shift to drive with no problems. I also don't have any issues if I switch the Overdrive off. Could this be a solenoid issue? I really don't want to have this transmission rebuilt. Any thoughts? Thanks again.

The clutch packs are paired up by gear like this if I remember correctly: 1st/Reverse, 2nd/4th, 3rd/Overdrive. It would seem the 3rd/OD clutch pack is going bad since you can eliminate the problem when you turn off the OD.

Take it to a good ****** shop and have them put it on their scanner. It will spit out the CVI's for the clutch packs and tell you if they're slipping. If they're slipping its time for a rebuild. If they're not slipping then there is something wrong with the electronics.

Bob
 

gadaddy

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The clutch packs are paired up by gear like this if I remember correctly: 1st/Reverse, 2nd/4th, 3rd/Overdrive. It would seem the 3rd/OD clutch pack is going bad since you can eliminate the problem when you turn off the OD.

Take it to a good ****** shop and have them put it on their scanner. It will spit out the CVI's for the clutch packs and tell you if they're slipping. If they're slipping its time for a rebuild. If they're not slipping then there is something wrong with the electronics.

Bob
Thanks for your patient reply's TwoBobsKJ. I hear what you're saying. No need to prolong the inevitable I guess. It's off to the shop.
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Thanks for your patient reply's TwoBobsKJ. I hear what you're saying. No need to prolong the inevitable I guess. It's off to the shop.

Believe me I hate writing that - but your symptoms and mine were exactly the same. Ended up putting in a new/used one from an '04 with 28,000 miles on it - and it hasn't missed a pan drop or fluid flush since :waytogo:

Bob
 

KYLiberty

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Hate to say it, but I went through the exact same thing at the end of last year. It got worse pretty quickly and I had to get the transmission rebuilt.
 

Leeann

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Yup, I put in a used ****** from a wrecked KJ with only 55k on it (mine had 79k at the time) in my backyard for about $500 total, including fluid, new input/output sensors and 2 cans of ****** cooler/line flush. Having a shop rebuild yours will cost a bit more, plus labor.

In my case, the 1st/Reverse clutch pack was toast. I will rebuild mine at some point soon; I have the Mopar rebuild kit and the specialy tools. I just haven't gotten around to it because my replacement is working so well.
 

Brokenliberty

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****** issues

I have a 2006 2wd liberty with a 3.7l.
I am desperate to get this thing back on the road.
I recently have had some trams issues and I'm looking for any possible help I can get. I was getting a torque converter code and slippage and I have 120k. So I decided to just get it rebuilt. I found a local guy to do it and I put it back in. I used ATF+4, flushed lines, new torque converter, but it shifts weird and makes some awful noises, trams temps get up to 210f with normal driving bit no codes.
I pulled it back out and he kept it for a month and said he found nothing wrong. The only thing he could say is that I didn't do a relearn, which I did with a Snapon solus.
I put it back in and it's doing the same thing- not the original problem though and I don't have any codes which makes me believe it is mechanical.
I have resorted to suing this guy, but I have to get my jeep back on the road and so I need to put a used trans in it for now.
Anyone have any suggestions? Or know where I can find a cheap used ******?
 

Porkchop

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After setting it for a relearn it takes a bit of driving for the Trans to smooth out and stop doing some funky things. Now is that your problem I don't know.
 

Brokenliberty

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I would like to chock it up to that, but the first time we put it back in it was driven for three weeks and it just kept getting worse. Additionally, I can't get past the temp getting up past 200f
 

Brokenliberty

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has anyone else ever monitored their temps to give me a normal baseline to look at. I would think normal temps would be in the 150f range
 
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