trans cooler lines

Discussion in 'KJ General Discussion' started by belvedere, May 5, 2009.

  1. JeepJeepster

    JeepJeepster Full Access Member

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    Yea, it got out of hand way to fast and Im not sure why everyone was so upset you were replacing them.

    The crimped ends youre talking about, are they the ones that go from solid to rubber? There are a few places where it cannot be separated and I believe thats where J is getting confused. They are permanent crimps.

    Second, cutting those sections out and using the correct hose is ok as long as you use barbs and clamp it good. Personally I would want to double clamp them just in case. This is how also all of the after market coolers hook up.

    Youre mechanic just wants to make sure its done 100% correct so you dont have a line blow off driving down the road.
     
  2. ShafferNY

    ShafferNY Full Access Member

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    I agree. It wouldn't look good if you toasted your transmission due to his handy work.
     
  3. tjkj2002

    tjkj2002 Full Access Member

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    The pic below is from my '02 KJ,the trans cooler lines have those crappy spring clamps,I added a AUX cooler and cut one of the lines,uses a double barbed adapter and worn clamps(#2 in pic).No problems in 7 years.
    [​IMG]
     
  4. belvedere

    belvedere Full Access Member

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    I agree that it would probably be OK with clamps. I'm just not sure I want to chance it.

    I assume the spring clamps on yours are OEM. Here's a thought: yours has clamps on the lines, mine has permanent crimps. The mechanic I spoke with mentioned high pressure in the lines as the reason not to use hose w/ clamps. Maybe the two transmissions have different pressures in the cooler lines, and that is why one is clamped and the other is crimped. Just an idea.
     
  5. tjkj2002

    tjkj2002 Full Access Member

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    The internal psi can vary from 50-235psi in either the 42RLE or 45RFE,that's internal pressure only.The cooler lines are much lower,maybe 25psi if your lucky.The trans flush machine at work has a pressure gauge on it and most trans have about 5-20psi of pressure in the cooler lines.
     
  6. J-Thompson

    J-Thompson Full Access Member

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    maybe ,but
    let me throw this one at you
    the people who make the lines figured
    "why make it so Joe public can fix this him self"
    "if we put what looks like a permanent fitting on he will think he has no choice but to buy our over priced lines"
    and you did even though they are leaking at 3 years old
    I replaced the lines via the barb fitting and hose clamp method because I could see the lines starting to dry rot and because I wanted an external cooler so 2 birds with 1 stone
    oh and the cooler is Flex-a-lite and I added a B&M temp gauge
    the cooler came with barb fittings and hose clamps the temp gauge came with compression fittings ,no leaks
    and I am quite sure that those 2 companies know a thing or 2 about transmissions and neither were vehicle specific

    just saying
    There are other options out there and rather than throw money at a problem
    that ,from the looks of things, will come back in 3 years
    see what can be done to improve the current set up (read-up grade)
     
  7. tjkj2002

    tjkj2002 Full Access Member

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    X2.................

    They make the junk so complicated you are almost always forced to take it to a shop or dealership.Those special tools you always need get expensive very fast,I know I have to buy the damn things for work.
     
  8. HoosierJeeper

    HoosierJeeper Gold Supporter/Admin Staff Member Administrator

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    What happened to the ol' days??? Easy to work on your on vehicles....now it's still doulable, but not as easy....:(
     
  9. ridenby

    ridenby Gold Supporter

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    yeah,carry couple sets of points,some plugs,adjust float in carb,always doing silly stuff in rain,dark,mud hole.no i kind of like newer cars,trucks,etc. internationl scout,pickups,older fords,are cool,but turn the key and go is so nice.
     
  10. Powerslave

    Powerslave Banned

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    Pressure? Strange, I read the FSM, and the transmission has listed, 42RLE with variable line pressure, and without...
     
  11. tjkj2002

    tjkj2002 Full Access Member

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    The internal pressure can vary from about 50-235psi,the cooler lines reduced well below that otherwise it would blow the trans coolers.
     
  12. Powerslave

    Powerslave Banned

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    Yeah, but I am saying, the factory service manual has TWO sets of diagrams. It specifically says: 42RLE with variable line pressure, then another set of diagrams: 42RLE without variable line pressure. Now, without looking at the diagrams, what's the difference? I can look, sure, but was just making note.
     
  13. ivantate

    ivantate Full Access Member

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    So, just to resurrect this old and passionate thread as I found it looking for advice on changing the lines. Just thought I would add a bit.

    Basically one of my pipes was leaking at the crimp where the flex pipes joined the solid line, and I saw it before buying the jeep. Thinking it would last until the weather warmed up and not realising it was such fun to swap.

    While sealing the front diff I saw the leak had got worse and the flex crimp was pushing off the pipe, there was a shiny fresh part showing. Taking into account the 8 illinois winters taking effect on the rest of the pipe I went to the local dealer to get a pipe. Found out they came as a pair, not what I wanted but ok.

    Then reality sank in and I read a few threads, no real advice other than its too tough to attempt.

    Basically I started at the front as it seemed easier and I could find out how difficult the clips were. All the front and the rads had to come, although I left the AC and power steering coolers connected and worked around them.

    The clips seemed easy, using the spike from an electricians screwdriver set they could easily be popped off by hooking it under the one end of the wire clip.

    Moving to the rear I tried a number of things but ended up taking the front propshaft off and this gave just enough room to then removed gearbox selector cable bracket and access the clips. It took a bit of patience and luck but they came out and with some tugging the pipes came free.
    The pipes pulled out to the rear fairly easily once 1 clip onto the block was cut off.

    Feeding the new pipes in wasnt too bad and with a bit of levering the top pipe seated into the transmission. I put the clips back in an easily position to take out again! They can go in 3 orientations. Then it was a fairly simple reassembly job.


    2months in the country, 1 month with the liberty. Already been shunted which still needs to be fixed, had a tpms sensor fail and also this bit of hassle. Hopefully I can get on with burning some fuel in peace now!
    Typical, I paid a bit more for a supposed good one and gave it a good look over, to:shakehead: should see us few the first few months before we got a second car and it warmed up for me to go through it and sort everything out.

    Looks like the summer can be spent on suspension bushes and lifts.
     
  14. profdlp

    profdlp On The Ledge

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    Good luck, Ivan. Sounds like you at least know what you're up against. :)
     
  15. L3iGH

    L3iGH New Member

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    I'm in the process of replacing my (automatic) transmission cooling lines now. Unlike all of the other threads I've read, my problem isn't coming from the hose/tubing section of the assembly. My issue is the front section of the assembly has rusted and needs to be replaced. That said, I have the new lines and am in the middle of the replacement. My questions is, what method have others used to get the line past the radiator? Do I have to remove this just to get the lines through? It appears I have to at least raise it about an inch or two for the assembly to make it through.

    Update: After rereading Ivan's information, I removed the radiator bolts and lifted it just enough to remove the old lines. Thankfully I didn't have to take the entire radiator out. The new lines are in place and everything fit just about perfectly. Getting the top line seated into the transmission is frustrating and everything is done except for that, hence the just about perfectly comment. I wouldn't definitely recommend using the popular mod for this fix versus putting in new lines if you're DIY. There isn't much room to maneuver and seat the top line into the transmission. Removing the front drive shaft and gearbox will definitely help but still won't be a picnic. I'm literally about 1mm from finishing this job. Just can't get the top line in enough to hold in place with the retainer clip. A buddy is coming over tomorrow, hopefully his experience can help me over this stump.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2015
  16. southernwake

    southernwake Full Access Member

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    Found this thread doing some research on these wonderful lines.

    Mine appear to be weeping at the point where the rubber hose connects to the steel line coming out of the left side of the radiator. It has the spring clamps. I backed them off a little bit and put a hose clamp on each hose so give it a tighter fit around the tube. I can grab the rubber hose and twist it on the metal tube.

    Does anyone have the part number for the hose/tube assembly? I have been trying to research it and I have found a few different ones. I have attached a picture of the one that I keep running across. Found it at tusconmoparparts.com

    Thanks
    Andrew
     

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  17. kage860

    kage860 Full Access Member

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    My mechanic just told me my lines are leaking at that connection. Debating whether to replace the clamp or the entire hose. I might let him do it since he did the diagnosis work (mandatory annual inspection). Southernwake, that looks like the dorman part that rockauto sells.
     
  18. RenKJ

    RenKJ Full Access Member

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    Has there been any progress on doing this work? Is it recommended to have someone try and rebuild thr metal to flex house connection? Or just replace the entire assembly?
     
  19. randymorris

    randymorris Full Access Member

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    Not to revive a clearly dead thread here, but I seem to have the issue of the cooler lines leaking at the crimped connections from metal to rubber lines up front. Since I definitely can not afford to pay someone to do it (my mechanic quoted $450 for new lines the whole way back, parts and labor), I’m just gonna cut off the crimped connections and replace with hose clamps. It seems to be a straight forward job. In terms of hose clamps, would these work for this application? Figure double clamp on each side, so I’d use 8 total.
     

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  20. mrlavalamp

    mrlavalamp Full Access Member

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    I replaced the entire lines with the jeep sitting on the ground no problem.

    was not that hard really, just a little twisting and turning and cussing and swearing and they were in.

    Biggest pita is if you loose one of the clips like I did and end up buying a new $15 fitting just to get the clip back.


    IMO cutting the crimps apart without damaging the flare and hard line is a bigger hassel.

    Once you get them cut apart and the old hoses off, a new hose and those clamps would work just fine. make sure you get hose rated for oils and not any old rubber hose.
    Without going and measuring the OD of the hose, those look about right, just confirm the size range matches whatever size hose you put on.

    EDIT: for piece of mind, I have been running standard home depot stainless steel hose clamps with barb fittings on the connections to an added trans oil cooler (I bought a radiator with a built in cooler in addition to the external cooler the jeep already had). No leaks no problems and it has been a couple years now.
     
    profdlp likes this.