Tensioner Replacement
- Thread starter jake1234
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tjkj2002
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You mean you rounded it off? If so try a 6 point socket 13mm(always use a 6 point socket) if that still does not work you will need to buy those special sockets that grab onto rounded off bolt heads,Sears has many different ones that woork very well.
bmrrwolfe
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I almost got a set of those Craftsmen ones from Sears, but was afraid that they wouldn't work, glad to hear some positive words about them.
Jake let us know what works for ya, I've been putting it off for a few weeks but I think I am doing my tensioner and belt tomorrow, and hopefully won't run into any trouble!
Okay I got it all taken care of now. I got a set of craftsman bolt extractors but the entire bolt head is recessed into the Chrysler tensioner where the extraction socket couldnt even fully grab it. And with the 13mm socket it didnt even grab the head. So I just ended up taking the idler and tensioner pulleys off and prying apart the tensioner (I know stupid and dangerous) and then I cut the aluminum sleeve it was in along with the bolt. The tensioner came off and all was left was a long stud which I unscrewed with my fingers. LOL.
I got a grade 8.8 m10x1.5x60 bolt, I believe the original bolt had a length of 70. A tad shorter but it seems to be holding the dayco tensioner just fine. Torqued to 30 ft lbs. I used a new mopar belt.
Everything seemed to work fine during the test drive and the noise from the belt is gone. lol Maybe I'll take pics of the destroyed tensioner, its in 6 pieces with the spring hanging out. The new bolt has a nice big 17mm head on it.
I got a grade 8.8 m10x1.5x60 bolt, I believe the original bolt had a length of 70. A tad shorter but it seems to be holding the dayco tensioner just fine. Torqued to 30 ft lbs. I used a new mopar belt.
Everything seemed to work fine during the test drive and the noise from the belt is gone. lol Maybe I'll take pics of the destroyed tensioner, its in 6 pieces with the spring hanging out. The new bolt has a nice big 17mm head on it.
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Blue KJ in PA
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What kind of noise were you hearing to indicate this going bad?
OK everybody, just do as You like, BUT : bolt is 1/2 inch, 13 mm??? Don't think so... I used a 1/2 polygonal ( aka 12 points, but mine's are a bit rounded so they won't dent anything), bolt was seated in hard, but managed to break it loose without even a scratch...
I know that most mechanics don't like 12 point sockets, they say they dent and can easily break down. IMHO Not if they are of 'true' professional quality and user must be careful in matching the exact size of the bolt, of course!
I always carry a 19mm polygonal (12 point) long socket and a 1/2'' breaker bar. never let me down and wheel lug nuts are still fine. On the other side OE tool does suck and yes, did dent those nuts... no longer on board!!
I know that most mechanics don't like 12 point sockets, they say they dent and can easily break down. IMHO Not if they are of 'true' professional quality and user must be careful in matching the exact size of the bolt, of course!
I always carry a 19mm polygonal (12 point) long socket and a 1/2'' breaker bar. never let me down and wheel lug nuts are still fine. On the other side OE tool does suck and yes, did dent those nuts... no longer on board!!
tjkj2002
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12 point sockets make it easier to "round off" bolt/nuts,unless your trying to loosen a 12 point bolt(some hub bearing mount bolts) there is no need for a 12 point socket.I have ten 12 point sockets for the sole purpose of removing 12 point hub bolts,otherwise all my other sockets(about 500 or so) are 6 point sockets.
Using the correct size is key also,a 13mm bolt will be rounded off by a 1/2" socket no matter if it is a 6 point or 12 point.
Hi tjkj2002, fine, I assume it's a matter of preferences. In fact I only use those 12 points which in reality are '12 domes', don't know if I'm explaining myself, and have this 'special' shape to prevent denting bolts. Also, my 6 points have 'wider corners' to prevent rounding off the bolt.
In a word, I do buy 'let's call them 12 domes' whenever possible, and 6 points are my #2 choiche. But by no means I'm saying 6 points are useless or worse! You're right, using the wrong socket ( bigger one) will round off the bolt, and, agreed, if the bolt is seized it will be stripped anyway.
Two 'last resources' for seized bolts, when those can't be reached by penetrating oil, one is tapping the bolt with a small hammer or whatever available, this might 'break the taper', and, last one, is to apply force slowly and keep the torque on the ratchet. After a while the binding might be weakened and finally break loose. Worked a couple of times, once on a spark plug and once, btw, when unbolting the tensioner. I soon realized that just trying bluntly was looking for trouble...
What I've said, tjkj2002, is always IMHO and found out by experiencing, which, to me, is never enough. Always thankful for Your advices.
In a word, I do buy 'let's call them 12 domes' whenever possible, and 6 points are my #2 choiche. But by no means I'm saying 6 points are useless or worse! You're right, using the wrong socket ( bigger one) will round off the bolt, and, agreed, if the bolt is seized it will be stripped anyway.
Two 'last resources' for seized bolts, when those can't be reached by penetrating oil, one is tapping the bolt with a small hammer or whatever available, this might 'break the taper', and, last one, is to apply force slowly and keep the torque on the ratchet. After a while the binding might be weakened and finally break loose. Worked a couple of times, once on a spark plug and once, btw, when unbolting the tensioner. I soon realized that just trying bluntly was looking for trouble...
What I've said, tjkj2002, is always IMHO and found out by experiencing, which, to me, is never enough. Always thankful for Your advices.
tjkj2002
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I wrench for a living and you'd never see me use a 12 point socket on anything besides a 12 point bolt/nut.If it works for you that's fine but a 6 point socket is the best choice for breaking torque,ever notice that almost every impact socket is only a 6 point socket(about 99% are).
Squeals while the engine was idling after being driven for a while and sometimes there was a loud squeal when the steering wheel was turned to the lock positions. I'd rather not wait for the tensioner to break or for the belt to snap while I'm driving to work or on the highway.
I bet You solved the problem by changing the tensioner, try to salvage whatever part You can from the old unit, or keep it should an an emergency occour, You never know...
About squeals and noises, last month I performed the 'turkey baster' power steering fluid 'refresh', used 1 qt, my KJ uses PSF not ATF+4 as factory fill. It may seem unbelievable but those noises were gone for good... who'd say that! PSF doesn't need replacing, mmmmhhh!!! :hmm:
I had the tensioner bolt round off too, but I had
and if anyone has the same problem, pick up this kit
Irwin Industrial Tools 394002 Bolt-Grip Expansion Set, 5-Piece
its 13mm extractor worked perfectly, and fit inside the recesed bolt hole with room to spare, took all of about 2 seconds to break the bolt loose and out
I had already picked up a new bolt from the dealer, for 2.63$, since the new tensioner did not come with one
and this made it easy to put on and off the belts
and if anyone has the same problem, pick up this kit
Irwin Industrial Tools 394002 Bolt-Grip Expansion Set, 5-Piece
its 13mm extractor worked perfectly, and fit inside the recesed bolt hole with room to spare, took all of about 2 seconds to break the bolt loose and out
I had already picked up a new bolt from the dealer, for 2.63$, since the new tensioner did not come with one
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and this made it easy to put on and off the belts
You must be registered for see images attach
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