Slip Yoke

[tommudd]

This is exactly what I was saying in my post, and your results supported that. Careful man, you might be accused of "not knowing suspensions" too (people can ROFLMAO all they want, I could give a flying crap)!!
Mainly what I don't like about what the lift does, is how goofy the Liberty looks with the rear tires so far forward in the wheel opening. A lower arm long enough to put the tires back on center would negatively effect pinion angle, without the use of adjustable uppers as well, which, would be a heck of a slick setup to have.

Ha now you are finally getting it and stating it the correct way, of course you are always correct

I'm done, if lifted correctly everything works great with no issues, so the friggin tire sits a little forward, nothing you can do unless you go to leaf springs so then the tire moves straight up and down, not in an arc like it does with coil springs and the set up with have.

Have a great 4th of July, I'taking my KJ out and driving here and there, going to do some off roading and not worry about BS

Ya know I really like to sit and talk about all of the what if's , would this work, could we try this , always have. The old guys that I started out with 40 plus years ago understood and no matter how off the wall we got they were still civil and would joke and laugh about it. The invention of the internet killed that, since some take life way to serious

 

[the_dealer]

It wouldn't be too hard to use some TJ adjustable rear lowers and fab up a fixed upper. You'd basically set it up with your current setup and leave it be. You aren't the only one with vibes, hell my kj has them too. I'm working on an a setup with adjustable uppper.

That's how it is with jeeps. Some guys like tommudd run 4" without vibes, and some get them at 1.5". You could always try an sye with a standard 2 joint slip shaft. By shortening the output, you get a longer shaft (lessening the angle), and would likely rid or reduce vibes

 

[Luke]

^^^ Thanks again dude

I'm done, if lifted correctly everything works great with no issues,

:happy175: ... ya ... OK

 

[CactusJacked]

Ha now you are finally getting it and stating it the correct way, of course you are always correct

I had it before, but I spose I should have just written more explicit instructions for using long arms to include the uppers, then you wouldn't have assumed I didn't know suspensions. Didn't realize I needed to go there, plus my response was starting to get long. Trust me, I completely understand the geometry and the action/reaction of the lower and upper control arms.
And no, not always correct, just ask my wife! It's not that though, but being put on the defensive for trying to be made wrong, and the little jab in the ribs was fun too!
And, I'm all for this forum being a no BS zone, thanks for your consideration! :happy175:
Anyway, have a good 4th of July, everybody.

 

[Luke]

While I have learned a few things throughout the last couple pages, my original questions still remain.

Which arms are interchangeable and will they adjust in a range that is shorter and longer than the stock KJ length?

Does that mean nobody knows? or are we just leading up to that part? :happy175:

The suspense is FUN!

 

[profdlp]

...The suspense is FUN!

:signs1:

 

[tommudd]

While I have learned a few things throughout the last couple pages, my original questions still remain.

Which arms are interchangeable and will they adjust in a range that is shorter and longer than the stock KJ length?

Does that mean nobody knows? or are we just leading up to that part? :happy175:

The suspense is FUN!

You could install some adjustable lowers but then that would open a whole other box of BS. If I was only going to try and do one side of them I would be looking at the top first. Yes as mentioned the wheelbase would still be somewhat shorter, but you could get the front of the pinion up some. OF COURSE this opens up other possible vibrations from not doing anything with the lowers . As has been mentioned by the_dealer you have to set lowers and uppers both to get the right angles and degrees to run smoothly.
To get rid of the vibes lower it down to 19.3578 inches front and rear :shrug:

 

[tjkj2002]

While I have learned a few things throughout the last couple pages, my original questions still remain.

Which arms are interchangeable and will they adjust in a range that is shorter and longer than the stock KJ length?

Does that mean nobody knows? or are we just leading up to that part? :happy175:

The suspense is FUN!

So you still want to through the angles more out of whack causing more vibs?




If so your looking for TJ arms,17 1/8"-17 1/4" is the OEM length.

 

[the_dealer]

Most adjustable TJ lowers will go from 15.75"-18". Its going to go downhill in a hurry using lowers to adjust pinion angle. I was actually going to use some RE lowers that I have sitting around but decided against it. I didn't like the way the flex joint fit into the lca bracket. Just to be clear, are u trying to restore wheelbase AND ditch the vibes, or trying to fix one or the other?


Here's my advice. Go pick you up(or borrow) an angle finder. Harbor Freight has a nice digital one for under $20. With your pinion bearing cap pointed towards the ground, check the angle with your finder. Do the same at the slip yoke. Find the difference between the 2 angles. If it's between 3-6*, you have mechanical problems. If more, then that worrying about adjusting stuff

 

[Luke]

So you still want to through the angles more out of whack causing more vibs?




If so your looking for TJ arms,17 1/8"-17 1/4" is the OEM length.

I want to do something else before I resort to lowering it ... if the vibes are worse I'll take them off ... just experimenting.

 

[the_dealer]

Well either way, your going to more the likely need to get an sye, and adjustable(or at least proper lengtb fixed) uca. With that said, I'm out. Heading to The Gulches with the LJ wheeling for the weekend