Rusty's .75" poly spacer lift results

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modular

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Got the lift in today, as well as taking care of the pinch welds in anticipation of the soft 8's and General 245/70's arriving next week. Kevin, did you notice the camber change on the front end? I am taking it to get aligned tomorrow morning. Did you get yours aligned afterwards??
 

Atrus

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I fully intended on getting it aligned, but I still haven't. I am sure it's off, I jusat don't know how much. If you go tomorrow, please let me know the results.

How'd the install go? Smooth?

Pics??? ;)
 

modular

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The front was obviously more involved than the rear, but all-in-all it took about four hours. Luckily, I have pics from the website of the dealer I bought it from. I will take some afters this week before I get the tires/rims on. I set an appointment for this coming Saturday morning for the alignment. I wanted to give the spacers some time to settle in, if needed.
 

LS Muddslinger

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hey guys. been droppin by for a few weeks now and noticed a few things. Most of you guys are talkin' about how you are doin 2" and 2.5" lifts and such and most of you are only being able to fit 245/70-16s....I find this kinda strange. That size tire isn't even a 31 inch tire and yet thats as big as you can go. I've got a '03 Lib with a 2.5" tuff country lift and I can easily fit 32" tires on there, no rubbing at all. not only that, but my a-arms don't hit anywhere, "stock" shocks and struts on it, and no noises, no binding, no rubbing, and it does exactly what a jeep should do, go where all my friends trucks and other suv's can't. So what's goin on with everyone else's stuff. is it that you don't want to put bigger tires on, or they wont fit. just curious.:confused:
 

modular

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Ok, here is a before and after shot of the same lift (before the tires and rims later this week)...

Before
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After
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After adding 2" puck to the rear and the wheels
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tommudd

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hey guys. been droppin by for a few weeks now and noticed a few things. Most of you guys are talkin' about how you are doin 2" and 2.5" lifts and such and most of you are only being able to fit 245/70-16s....I find this kinda strange. That size tire isn't even a 31 inch tire and yet thats as big as you can go. I've got a '03 Lib with a 2.5" tuff country lift and I can easily fit 32" tires on there, no rubbing at all. not only that, but my a-arms don't hit anywhere, "stock" shocks and struts on it, and no noises, no binding, no rubbing, and it does exactly what a jeep should do, go where all my friends trucks and other suv's can't. So what's goin on with everyone else's stuff. is it that you don't want to put bigger tires on, or they wont fit. just curious.:confused:


Most are doing the lifts but staying with a resonable size tire to try and keep some decent gas mileage I would assume. With a 32 inch tire and 3.73s gas mileage will be in the crapper. I am running full OME lift and can go a lot bigger than the 255-70X16s I am running but why? Maybe gain 1/4 inch of clearance,
 

modular

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Tom, I agree. Unless one really needs that big of a tire there is no reason for it. Why just waste the fuel.

Kevin, got the alignment this morning. Looks like the toe was out the most. I have the actual numbers as I asked for a before and after printout if you want them.
 

modular

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I am thinking of getting 2" spacers for the rear and taking out the 2 added upper isolators and the lower isolator. This would make it sit .5" higher than it does right now as it is just about level. Since my new spare will weigh a little more than the old, I feel more comfortable with the extra .5" in the back. Is this making sense?
 

Atrus

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Kevin, got the alignment this morning. Looks like the toe was out the most. I have the actual numbers as I asked for a before and after printout if you want them.

Interesting, thanks for letting me know. I'll have to get mine checked out.

Reason I went with a .75" lift? It was $73. Reason I went with 245/70's? That's the largest I felt comfortable with knowing they'd rub only minimally, if at all. They were less expensive than 75's and as Tom said, gas mileage. 99.9% on-road. I figure I put on about 20k a year, so worst case I can upgrade in a couple of years.


Edit: And, the 70's do seem to rub something on full lock. I need to check it out.
 

Libertee

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Do any of you guys have the Jeep part # for the isolators? I already bought the Rusty's spacers, and just need to pick up the isolators to complete the set. I hate going to my local dealer and asking them to look up parts- they don't have a lot of patience for such...

Thanks
 

Atrus

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I do not think i have it anymore. I went to Wykoff's or some other dealer's site and searched it. You want the rubber upper isolator. Should be around $11 each or so.

I'd tell your local dealer if they want you as a customer they need to **** and get their ass on their computer. That's asinine, the whole point of a parts desk is for them to look up part numbers and place orders. After shipping, I didn't find them to be any cheaper online than just getting them at the dealer.
 

Libertee

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Thanks. I searched and found a couple of sites selling them- they are actually calling them insulators vs isolators. Anyway, I still don't have a part number, but I'm getting closer. If I get a part number, I'll post it...
 

modular

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I do believe they are the same units...at least the same results.
 

Atrus

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I agree, same result. The Rusty's front should be the same as the Daystar.

One reason I didn't do 2" rear like the Rusty's and I assume, the Daystar - I wanted to ditch the forward rake. The Rusty's front will lift you 1.5"-1.75". The rear WILL lift the 2". So, you're going to have even more forward rake than stock, and I think stock looks kinda stupid. I understand the reason for it (namely, gas milage), but I still don't like it.

Using the isolators/insulators you can lift the front .1.5"-1.75" and the rear 1", thus making it more level.

I like how it looks now. Very slight forward rake (so the ass end doesn't look saggy or like a baja racer) but it's much more level than stock.

Rusty's front for $20 is a good deal IMO. The rear at $60 is comparable to the extra isolators/insulators. Those ran me about $48 or so out the door at the stealership for (4) - 2 extra per side.
 

immadmacs

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Maybe someone with a CRD and Daystar lift can give some feedback about the rake of the lift. Daystar said their lift is level. Can anyone verify that? I think if I remove the existing isolator and install the new puck, it will be level. I like the concept of having 1 spacer instead of 2 stacked spacers on one end and 1 on the other.
 

modular

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Now, I started with the .75 spacer in front with the 2 added upper isolators in the rear. It looked to be lower in the rear. Plus once I put my new spare on the rear which was much heavier than the stocker, I was afraid the rear was going to end up lower. I went ahead and got the 2" rear puck from 1sourcemfg.com. When you use this puck, you do not use the original lower isolator. Now it sits just like I wanted. I also used the Rancho's for the Dakota in the rear. Here is the set-up now:

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Marlon_JB2

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Maybe someone with a CRD and Daystar lift can give some feedback about the rake of the lift. Daystar said their lift is level. Can anyone verify that? I think if I remove the existing isolator and install the new puck, it will be level. I like the concept of having 1 spacer instead of 2 stacked spacers on one end and 1 on the other.

I don't know about the 9126, but the 9116 that I installed was NOT level. The front end was higher than the rear by about an inch or so.
 
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