Required Fluid Types

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tjkj2002

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I have seen some time ago (years ago) that 5w20 and 5w30 were ok to use in 3.7L. I been using 5W20. Though the cap says 5W30. So am I G2G? Or should I only use 5W30.
Use 5w-30 as your engine is not built to use 5w-20.5w-20 was only recommended for later year forr mpg's which will have long term effects on a engine designed for 5w-30.
 

Okura_hubby

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Yikes.. I hope I havent done any damage. I been using 5w20 most the time. I could swear I saw a tech bulletin back in late 06 or early 07.. I will start using 5w30 now exclusively.
 

Neb1373

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Thank you all for bringing this one back to life. I have been searching and wanting to change my 80k mile pretty new to me jeep fluids. Is there anything in the how-to section that you all know of?
 

Okura_hubby

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Changing oil is pretty straight forward.. So Not going to botherThere is only about 4 companies who actually MAKE the filters.. I would go with Wix (they do make their own), can get them at O'Reilly Auto Parts
Wix Part #'s
2.4L: 51348
3.7L: 51516
2.8L Diesel: 51516
Here is a good read on Filters >> http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html

The transmission there is a youtube video on how to do it. The video is a bit corny but hits all the marks. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgGW5ty_QmI
You will need 4 qts of ATF+4 fluid. Make sure you get the right filter kit for your trans. My 06' the parts catalog was wrong..
The trans 42RLE uses Wix Filter kit 58013 << Most likely this one
The trans 45RFE uses Wix Filter kit 58843

Changing the transfer case fluid.. Use 3.4 pints of ATF+4 fluid. If yours has a skid plate, you may need to drop it to get the fluid out.
See video here >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StDdYgPt9NI

Rear axle oil change. . Just unbolt the back back plate, have something to catch the fluid. Wipe down the back plate, use razor blade to scrape off the red or blue gasket sealer. Apply fresh RTV where you scraped off old. Replace back plate replace all but top bolt. Replace fluid til it comes out hole. (3 bottles should make it full, just top it off till it reaches hole)

Brake fluid - White container on driver side with yellow cap. What I do about once a year is suction out the fluid in the white resevour and fill with fresh fluid. You could get **** and rebleed everything. Since I do not have a autobleeder I just use a shring to suck out old fluid and refill with fresh. I guess this is an 80% solution.

Radiator coolent. I heard its good to flush, I heard it damages things to flush. Problem is with these new cars is they have plastic parts on the radiator that can break. So I opted for the drain and replace.

Air Filter - replace as needed but since its your first time. I would replace. I would stay away from K&N/Amsoil (they flow good but let alot of dirt in). Here is a good article on Flow and Filteration on Air Filters. Results will surrprise you >>http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm I let you form your own opinion on air filter, this tends to be a highly contested subject.

Think that is my $1.25 worth.
 
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Neb1373

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Wow, thank you. Looks like YouTube is the next google :). The only part I didn't see was the front diff, does it have a drain plug and a fill plug and procedures similar to the transfer case? I have not even been under the front of my jeep, yet, just the rear for the trailer hitch.
 

Okura_hubby

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The front if I remember right is easier than the rear. It has drain and fill plugs.

I have found various things on Youtube.. How to do stuff on my Mac, how to play a card game.. But sometimes they skip important parts.. Like how much fluid, or what weight of fluid, or more important what type of fluid. I hope my other info helps you out. The articles on Air and Oil filters really opened my eyes.
 

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Anyone know what the original engine oil is that is spec'd for the 2002 Liberty LTD 4WD? Is it plain old dead dinosaur oil or some kind of synthetic or semi-synthetic?
 

moparman

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What it says on the filler cap and the synthetic part is up to you. Everybody has their own opinions on this.

Since the owner's manual says not to go over 6K under any circumstance and I drive 25 to 28K miles a year, (about 5 oil changes), I use dino oil and it is just fine.
 

Emoto

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What it says on the filler cap and the synthetic part is up to you. Everybody has their own opinions on this.

Since the owner's manual says not to go over 6K under any circumstance and I drive 25 to 28K miles a year, (about 5 oil changes), I use dino oil and it is just fine.

So, Chrysler didn't specify that the oil must be syn or semi-syn, right?
 

J'sJeep

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Transmission fluid flush n filter change would include transfer case fluid change as well right? Im a trans dummy n had Midas do a transmission flush n filter change. Want to check.
 

tjkj2002

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Transmission fluid flush n filter change would include transfer case fluid change as well right? Im a trans dummy n had Midas do a transmission flush n filter change. Want to check.
No the t-case is seperate.

Make damn sure midas used ATF+4,not something that is "compatable" with ATF+4.If they did not use a ATF+4 of the list in the link below better make damn sure they get the correct ATF+4 swapped in ASAP.

Licensed ATF+4® Brands
 

badkittystt

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I am absolutely losing my mind with this HOAT thing. I have called every single mechanic's shop on island and nobody has it. I really think they don't know what it is, they just keep telling me they only sell PEAK. So I call the dealership and ask if they have hoat, the guy asks what it is. I tell him it's the required fluid for my coolant. He says I must be wrong because he's never heard of it. I asked what they use, he says genuine mopar. So is genuine mopar not hoat? I have a mechanic coming by to do my transmission fluid today and I really wanted the coolant too but I gave up. Is it really that bad to put something other than hoat in there? I mean, right now it's just water!
 

tjkj2002

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I am absolutely losing my mind with this HOAT thing. I have called every single mechanic's shop on island and nobody has it. I really think they don't know what it is, they just keep telling me they only sell PEAK. So I call the dealership and ask if they have hoat, the guy asks what it is. I tell him it's the required fluid for my coolant. He says I must be wrong because he's never heard of it. I asked what they use, he says genuine mopar. So is genuine mopar not hoat? I have a mechanic coming by to do my transmission fluid today and I really wanted the coolant too but I gave up. Is it really that bad to put something other than hoat in there? I mean, right now it's just water!
Call the dealership and give them part #68048953AA,that is the correct part # for the correct coolant,also labeled as MS-9769 on the bottle.
 

nzoliver

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Right. No syn or semi syn is required.

Hi all,

Well, down here it is SPECIFIED that they run synthetic. I have seen dino in the 3.7 and it wasn't pretty.
The dealer here has seen NO issues with the 3.7s and 4.7s that only run 5w30 synth. Other grades and oils...that's another story...

Just my 10c worth.

Oliver
 
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