Renegade engine differences

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CodeWarrior

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Was looking through the factory parts manual and noticed that there are two starters listed for the 3.7l engine, 160 amp for Renegade, and 136 amp for Sport and limited.

I was wondering why this is and if there are other differences that I am not seeing?
 

rjkj2005

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Was looking through the factory parts manual and noticed that there are two starters listed for the 3.7l engine, 160 amp for Renegade, and 136 amp for Sport and limited.

I was wondering why this is and if there are other differences that I am not seeing?
You mean alternator. Yes. The higher amp for the renegade. This is do to the renegade options for the off road roof lights and the larger front bumper lights.

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Conundrum2006

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Ought to be the same alternator used in the Grand Cherokees, Commanders and Ram trucks with all the amenities and 3.7, 4,7 motors.

The Xj (cherokee) guys who need extra omph of high amp alternator adapt a Grand Cherokee alternator in. They'd also update the wiring a little bit. I never bothered because the factory alternator on the 90s 4.0 actually had a higher max amperage than you'd think (if you'd look at the alternator test sheet), the GC upgrade was only a slight increase.

Are you wanting to upgrade the alternator?
 

tommudd

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Upgrading it to a Rene alternator will not provide more power since thats all computer controlled
 

CodeWarrior

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Are you wanting to upgrade the alternator?

Not per se. I am rebuilding an engine (from which many parts are missing thanks to the previous owner) including the alternator. A friend hooked me up with an alternator and starter, but I will have to go see what output it has.
 

CodeWarrior

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Is there a good way to see if this is a Renegade? It is a 2004 Columbia Edition, and I see the Columbia badge on the side, but there is another badge that is gone (the adhesive is still there). I have a pic of the drivers door VIN plaque. I don't know yet what most of the codes on it mean.
 

Conundrum2006

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Is there a good way to see if this is a Renegade? It is a 2004 Columbia Edition, and I see the Columbia badge on the side, but there is another badge that is gone (the adhesive is still there). I have a pic of the drivers door VIN plaque. I don't know yet what most of the codes on it mean.


Bigger question is does the alternator you were given have the right plug, oval or square.
The alternator mounting points should be the same for any 3.7-4.7 engine.

There are a few websites that promise to decode vins, I've never really tried them.




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Conundrum2006

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Btw if you run the alternator number it should give you the output and years it works with.


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CodeWarrior

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It is this one:

Alternator - 56041693AC

136 Amp with a oval plug.

The liberty in question does not have roof lights, but it does have a sun roof, and bumper (fog?) lights. No overhead console in front (temp, gas mileage, etc).

Photo Album

Found breakdown of VIN in the Jeep Liberty 2004 service manual (this only applies to 2004 Jeep Liberty. Other years will likely be different):
You must be registered for see images attach
 
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Conundrum2006

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I'd bet yours is a normal 136 amp,
But the 2004 was a split year for the plugs.

If you working in rebuilding a 3.7 finding parts and missing things will be easy. Any 3.7 should work, jeep, dodge, Mitsubishi


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CodeWarrior

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It would be easy if I were anywhere but on Hawaii. The salvage yards are odd here. They don't want to part out. Found several 3.7l engines, they wanted to sell them whole ($2.5k) Only need the alternator? Too bad.

I needed 2 window regulators. They were willing to sell me the whole door ($250 x 2). Ordering the window regulator from the mainland would be about $100...

This place ***** for repairing a car.
 
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Conundrum2006

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It would be easy if I were anywhere but on Hawaii. The salvage yards are odd here. They don't want to part out. Found several 3.7l engines, they wanted to sell them whole ($2.5k) Only deed the alternator? Too bad.

I needed 2 window regulators. They were willing to sell me the whole door ($250 x 2). Ordering the window regulator from the mainland would be about $100...

This place ***** for repairing a car.


I just swapped out the 3.7 from our 2006 commander so I've got the old motor sitting around if you need any thing from it let me know .


I've been surprised how expensive and how long it can take to ship to Hawaii (sold a few things on eBay) I kind of get why the junk yards with a good door don't want to part it out but I'd think somebody would have parts for a door.
Regulators usually aren't the first to go. But I've had to replace them often enough



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CodeWarrior

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Mostly a ton of bolts.

Mounting bolts for alternator, starter, belt pulley.
Timing Chain Cover bolts.
Bell housing bolts.
Flex plate bolts.
Torque Converter bolts.


I think nearly everything else I need is either in the engine repair kit that I am ordering (timing chain guides; previous owner lost both + bolts).
 

Conundrum2006

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Did it come in boxes like a kit car? Wow that's a nightmare to source.
I've got some of that stuff but alternator, starter, bell housing I don't have extras of.



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CodeWarrior

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Did it come in boxes like a kit car?

Nope. Previous owner bought it as-is from someone who had performed a partial engine-ectomy. They did not include most of the bolts that they had taken off. When I bought it, engine was in the rear cargo compartment, heads were in the middle passenger seats.
 

Conundrum2006

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Nope. Previous owner bought it as-is from someone who had performed a partial engine-ectomy. They did not include most of the bolts that they had taken off. When I bought it, engine was in the rear cargo compartment, heads were in the middle passenger seats.

Ugh. Means it over heated or worse. I'm betting there are no good used engines there. Or affordable.



I'd have to look up if the 2004 was the old style or newer style reluctor because if its new you can plop in any year up to 2012, for the older years you still can if you swap the reluctor on the crankshaft. Plenty of write ups on it and the folks here are incredibly knowledgeable.



Honestly I'm a little afraid you'll find a huge problem once you get the motor running, I think you'd be better served in time and money by swapping the complete assembly, although I don't know if it is possible where you are.

.Don't even know how one would send a engine to the Islands, here it's call a freight company for a quote, feel cheated, and it get it in 5 days or more. Guess to go there it have to be a shipping company.



Of the bolts we talked about I know for sure I don't have the one for belt tensioner- block to assembly. The bolt head on the one from the new motor distorted and I used the old motor's bolt. 13mm socket to remove it, rest of threading info I don't have. It ought to be pretty standard.



One hell of a project there, I'm concerned as to why they disassembled it in the first place.


Edit: finally saw the pictures. Not a bad looking kj.
 
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CodeWarrior

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First thing I did was put water in the radiator (which was removed from the engine compartment). It had a leak. Took the heads to a machine shop and one was warped. Had it surfaced. Checked the block, and it is good.

I think that is all that happened. Radiator leaked, engine overheated, head warped, lost compression, guy started work on it, never completed.

Right now, I am looking at about $1000 total. Got to get a radiator, air cleaner box, engine rebuild kit, bunch of bolts, and a few odds and ends.
 

Conundrum2006

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I tired searching Car-part.com for engines in Hawaii. Nothing! Any year chosen. Car-part is the public search feature for the Hollander software Junk yards use.
Only hit was Craig's list which had a JY in Sand Island (?) parting out a 2004. Just names to me no idea if it'll help.

BTW it is a nice looking KJ, Block looks pretty good and as you said it checked good. Just puzzled why they pulled the block too.
 
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