PCV Valve and Tube

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BostonJeep

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Hi All,

New to the forum, a lot of great info here!

Anyways, my 2005 Liberty has been idling high (ie 2K RPM), took it to the dealer, turns out the PCV Valve and Tube need to be replaced...Dealer wanted $180 to replace (blarg)...I said no way I'll DIY.

So, now I turn to you guys! I think I've found the part here, but I need to find the tube too. Could someone please steer me in the right direction?

Also, has anyone replaced this before and if so could you offer some advice of helpful hints (or even a walkthrough if you have the time!). I did a search on the site but couldn't find many specifics on the actual replacement.

Thank you in advance! wavey.gif
 

Dave

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I replaced my PCV valve one time. It has locking tabs holding it in. It rotates down and then unlocks and pulls out. Reverse the proceedure to install.

But why does the tube have to be replaced?? Is it cracked or broken? Otherwise, if it is clogged or something just take it off and ream it out with something??

Dave
 

BostonJeep

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I replaced my PCV valve one time. It has locking tabs holding it in. It rotates down and then unlocks and pulls out. Reverse the proceedure to install.

But why does the tube have to be replaced?? Is it cracked or broken? Otherwise, if it is clogged or something just take it off and ream it out with something??

Dave

I was told by the dealer that the "PCV Valve and Tube" had to be replaced due to a vacuum leak. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but I'm having a heck of a time figuring out what tube he was referring to. Think I'd be alright just replacing the valve itself?

Thanks for quick response BTW!
 

sleeve

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3.7 I am assuming.

The location of the PCV changed after a certain model year. The original location was on the oil filler neck. If it's not there - it'll be on the back of the valve covers.

I'm curious as to why you'd need to replace the tube though - it's typically just rubber and they never clog up.
 

offrovering

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its easy, location depends on year. I replaced the tube and pcv on mine as well. Mine didnt need the tube replaced but I did anyhow. did you ask the dealer how much the parts were? I bought both at the dealer.
 

Powerslave

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You mean the oil fill neck, not oil filter neck. You can buy vacuum hose and another PCV and do it yourself. Any hose of the same diameter will be fine. If you can buy the PCV, then it is a user replaceable item, hose is cheap... The high idle would be due to an actual hole in the vacuum line, the LEAK as they say. Just replace the line with rubber trans hose, or fuel filter hose, anything that will go over top the PCV...
 

Powerslave

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A broken/cracked/leaking PCV valve or related hoses for it will not effect idle RPM's.

Positive Crankcase Ventilation,it's a vent and nothing more.

Hmm, ok, maybe not for this Jeep, but I have had many other cars that; when I pulled the hose off the PCV, the RPMs jump, due to the air intake. These are engines where the PCV (in the valve cover) tube goes into the base of intake manifold somewhere.

My Tracker, and Dodge Avenger were like that, and just about every other car I had before this Jeep. Sometimes, the cars would stall when I pulled the PCV tube off the PCV valve, or from intake manifold; that is unmetered air into the intake system at the nozzle, which is after the TB unit, at the intake manifold. Also, If I pulled the EGR vacuum line from the intake plenum, the RPMs would go up, and stay up, due to the air being pulled in at the nozzle where the vacuum line was...

So, on this jeep, neither the PCV or Breather hose goes into the intake manifold anywhere that I can see at a glance, so yeah, that should not effect RPMs. Another vacuum leak somewhere might up the RPMs, as that's umetered air getting into the intake system somewhere.

A partially open EGR would cause rough low idle, or even stalling.

Any unmetered air going into the intake somewhere AFTER the TB unit can or will cause a rise in RPMs.
 

BjBnet

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Just changed mine today. Cost me $6. Remove the tube, turn the PVC counterclockwise 90 degrees and pull it out. It's that simple.
The hose can't be more than $10, if it's the same as mine it's about 6" long in the shape of an L.
 

Austen

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Ive got an 06 and it looks like the pcv is coming out of the oil filler neck but the vent that blows all the oil into my air filter box is in the back of the starbord valve cover. So which is it the small black one in oil filler or the larger silver based in valve cover?
 

Powerslave

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Ive got an 06 and it looks like the pcv is coming out of the oil filler neck but the vent that blows all the oil into my air filter box is in the back of the starbord valve cover. So which is it the small black one in oil filler or the larger silver based in valve cover?

I got an 06 as well, and yeah, that is how they are setup. The "Breather Filter" is in the airbox BEFORE filtration. That tube comes from that rear portion of the driver side valve cover. Long way to travel... The PCV hose goes into the passenger side valve cover.

The problem with aftermarket intakes is; that tube is rerouted to a nozzle in the intake tube AFTER filtration. This allows that little oil to get into the intake. That is why I used a catch can.
picture.php


Starboard valve cover? Sitting in the car, it would be Port Aft. If looking AT the car would be Starboard Bow (Engine only, used as the boat reference).
 

Austen

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Almost but not so much. So your saying the pcv is in the rear of the passenger side valve cover and the breather tube goes to the driver valve cover? Whats sticking out of the oil filler neck?
 

Powerslave

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The PCV valve is in the Oil Fill tube, and the line goes BACK to the passenger side valve cover. The breather hose, is in the driver side valve cover, and goes back around the motor, and up to the AirBox, with a breather filter IN the airbox. That intakes the fumes from the crank case.

In all actuality, you can REMOVE the hoses, plug up the oil fill tube, and place those small cone breather filters in the Valve Covers, and bypass the PCV system all together, like how OLDER cars were? Exxept, they used the breather filters in the oil fill cap. SO, all the crank case vent and fumes just came out your oil cap, as it was more than just a CAP, it was a breather filter too.

It will not damage anything, but is illegal under the new FED EPA laws. I did this with my Avenger, used two small cone breather filters, but the fumes were intolerable (though lived with till the 80s). SO, I just hollowed out the PCV, and it was all pulled into the intake with not restriction or valve opening and closing with pressure from the Crank Case; it was just all free flowing. That way, it passed VISUAL inspection too. I never FAILED emissions, EVER, and that was also with a permanently closed off EGR system.

Does make you wonder how we dealt with those fumes before these systems were put on cars.

Emissions laws are just a scam to make money. I have tested my car with many bypasses of the emissions systems, and it passed EVERY SINGLE TIME! That right there, tell you it's all ********. I never messed with the O2 sensors, but all the TOP end stuff, you bet, and it passed every time. You can still have a passing condition with bad or no o2 sensors, with the sensor ghost circuit I have... I posted that in the forums as well...

Anyhow, mostly the EGR and PCV system is worthless as far as making emissions out the tailpipe better. The PCV system is there now to keep the fumes out of the atmosphere, and you smelling it in the car... The EGR, well, that's just stupid...
 
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leadfoot

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Just changed mine today. Cost me $6. Remove the tube, turn the PVC counterclockwise 90 degrees and pull it out. It's that simple.
The hose can't be more than $10, if it's the same as mine it's about 6" long in the shape of an L.

No wonder some Chrysler dealers are taking legal action to avoid being closed down if the dealer wanted to charge someone $180 to do this job. They deserve
to go out of business.
 

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